mos68x

I have been thinking today and last night after looking at the other post here about the vavle dropping in the cylinder.

I have a little bit of pitting in the #7 cylinder, nothing real bad, but the more I think about it I think that I might be able to use it for the time being. Doing it this way I'll be able to save up my money while being deployed to afghanistan for the new engine and body work. The pitting feels like it is about 020 deep, but only in a very small area.

Is there a real fine material that I can very lightly use by hand to clean up the ring chatter and discoloration, and possibly get a better idea of the pitting that is there?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You've got a few choices. You can hone it with a 3 stone hone in a drill. .020" is a LOT though. I doubt it's that bad..? Got a good close up picture on macro showing it?

Otherwise you can bore that one cylinder out, or put in a sleeve.

Or you can use fine sandpaper and try to get rid of the "chatter". But now you're really doing a backwoods repair.

mos68x

I don't right now, but when I get home sometime this weekend I'll take a picture so that everyone can see what I'm looking at. The block is still in the car so I'm not so sure that I'll have the room to use any honing device, 3 stone or the ball stones.
I could but I really don't want to do that.
IF I were to do that I would grab something to the effect of 1500 or 2000 grit, but that's also because I don't know the grit of the honing stones.

When you hone you use oil with it right? If so, would I be able to use oil on the sandpaper if I don't have room for the honing tools?

edit: whatever I do it really only has to last me about 3-4 months effectively since I'll be gone and saving up my money for something else.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

1500-2000? You'll be there for a while... And no, the shop will leave a 400-600 grit finish for your cylinder walls, in order for the rings to seal. That grit value will never remove material anyway, you have to go more coarse.

I hone with ATF, but i've been told to use mineral spirits. You're trying to "rough up" the cylinder to get a cross hatch, you don't want to polish it.

I'm not sure how bad the spot is, so I can't really make a recommendation.

mos68x

well i was thinking of using 1500-2000 just to match the rest of the cylinder since I'm only trying to clean up a section less than the size of your little finger nail. It is nearly at the top of the cylinder, but pictures are worth a thousand words so I'll get pictures when I finally get home this weekend.

The only reason that they leave it "rough" at 600 is so that the cylinder walls and the rings wear together to make a perfect seal matched to each other.

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

You should just bore it .030 over.....it's not that much to do that....then you won't have to worry about pitting. Throw some .030 pistons in there and then you could run it until you get back to build it. You have it apart anyways, might as well just get it done right.

mos68x

The problem is that I can't even if I wanted to. The block is already 040 and the pitting is deeper than the 010 that a 020 bore would take out to bring it to a total of 060. I think I'm going to just reuse this block regardless of the pitting, which was there before I bought the block 3 months ago. When I get back from the ghan I'll buy a crate or build a new motor for this car. I still have to pull the passenger side apart to check that side too, I'm hoping that I don't find even more problems with this block that will prevent me even reusing it for the short time until I get home.

JakeJr

1500/2000 is too fine. It won't leave the necessary finish for oil retention on the walls which serves to minimize ring wear. In effect, you'd be polishing the bore walls which is what you don't want to do.

You can then use a bottle brush (fits in a drill and has *****) to break any glaze.

600 GRIT is a good choice.

Jake