MorenoRS

So yeah, my car wont start. Turning the key only makes lights inside go off, but no crank. I bought a new battery(duralast Gold) and still did the same. While checking for voltage (with the needle that makes noise)..we came across a puple wire witch was the starter soleniod wire. We put 12V in that wire with the needle and the car cranked. it kept cranking but it didnt turn on. could it be the soleniod? bad ignition switch? or this infamous VATS system i hear about? please help and will it cost me alot?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Could be VATS. Check out the tech article https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system . Be sure to read the note under the diagram about the VATS fuse.

Damon

I'm also thinking either VATS or the park/neutral switch. Either of those two can prevent 12V from being sent to that wire and keep it from cranking over.

RED_DRAGON_85

there is a yellow purple wire combo that is a neutral safety switch.
either just twist the wires together and remember not to crank the car in gear, or find a on off switch and wire it up correctly.

AC

iTrader: (3)

Check the neutral safety. I bypassed it with a appropriate fuse. Like mentioned I have to make sure its not in gear when I start it.

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

If you have VATS you will have a little resistor chip on your ignition key. No chip, no VATS.

Question: If you turn the ignition key to the RUN position, and then put 12V to the solenoid terminal with the purple wire, does it start? If so, you have a switch or wiring problem. I would try that test first. Naturally, you will want to be sure that the car is in PARK or NEUTRAL with the brake on before you try this.

If the car starts, you can begin troubleshooting the starter circuit. First, put a test lamp on the solenoid terminal with the purple wire. Have someone turn the key to START. Under normal conditions, the lamp would light brightly and the car would start. In your case, either the lamp will light dimly or not at all. If the lamp is dim, check all connections between the ignition switch and the solenoid. If it doesn't light at all, follow the circuit back to the ignition switch.

If your car is AT, do the lamp test at both sides of the neutral safety switch. When the key is turned to START, you should get a bright light at both terminals. If only one side lights your test light, the problem is in the switch. If OK at the neutral switch, the problem is between the switch and the solenoid, possibly a broken wire.

If the car is MT, do the same test at your clutch safety switch. If you get nothing on either side of the switch, check to see if the lamp lights at the ignition switch itself. If not, replace the ignition switch. If you get power at the switch, the problem is between the ignition switch and the safety switch.

It's a good idea to get a wiring diagram, even though this is a fairly simple circuit. The diagram gives you information like the color of wires, and the components of the circuit and how they connect to other systems.