RED_DRAGON_85

OK!
so the deal is this.
my RMS is basically on its last leg.
the reason is a combination of factors, but mainly because the previous owner put in either the wrong size or cheap piston rings causing so much blowby that it forces oil out the rms. in addition, it was not put in correctly (IMO) and is leaking.
so ive decided that i want to rebuild it and i was originally going to just do the rms and hope for the best, but after realizing exactly how bad the blowby was, i realized i'd have to do that as well.

the options in front of me (as i see it) are:
1) pull the pan, do the RMS, put it back together, pull the heads, pull the pistons, pray that it hasnt been bored to 0.060 already, buy new pistons, re-ring them, send the block off to be honed ect...

the option i see is
2) get a professionally built shortblock and transfer all the topend stuff onto it. i was thinking about getting a roller block so i can use a roller cam. currently i have a tappet cam block.
this would ensure that i would have a solid platform and be relatively cost effective IMO.

where should i start with this?
do you think its a good idea to get a shortblock and build that?
i have access to a engine hoist and dont mind tearing an engine apart, but to me it seems like a better idea...

also, since apparently i have 305 heads, what cam do i need?
i know this isnt a simple question but as far as i know, the heads should give me really high compression. currently i have to run premium gas and keep the engine temps below 200 or i start getting detonation.
so i am on the ragged edge and i dont mind it being that way.
i am looking into new heads, but i have almost zero spending money at this point so they will have to wait.

what about vortec heads?
i would need a new TPI baseplate but is it worth it versus aftermarket aluminum heads and standard baseplate?

i know this is a lot to digest at one time...
thanks!

transam85dudeman

i say, rebuild her yourself, hone yourself, and lastly just get some cheap heads. i recommend Eagle rebuild kits. if you have tpi you should have the knock sensor preventing detonation.230*F is normal. if you have ol blow by then ya, rebuild it. its shouldnt take more than a week. Crane cams, (www.summitracing.com)

SpitotRs305

that would take a freakin lot of blow by to make a RMS leak... have you done a compression test? a leak down test? any kind of test to lead you to believe it is blow by?

has the engine seen lots of detonation? "the ragged edge" leads me to believe yes
any odd noises like a knock or funny rattling

pistons wont stand up to do much detonation before they start to deform which could cause your blow by but i wouldnt count on that blowing out a RMS before say shooting the dipstick through your hood blowing the PCV and the vent off the engine

my suggestion is to plan on buying new everything... find a new block and start over... plan the build and the tolerances so you arent running on the "ragged edge" there really isnt a need for that with the proper heads and cam and a safe CR you will put out more power than running that mis match stuff on the edge

RED_DRAGON_85

knock sensor kicks in after half a second of detonation.
if i unplug the PCV, it shoots a plume about 3 feet in the air.
if i clean off the back of the engine and let it run i can see oil start dripping out.
i went for a week with the PCV unplugged and aside from getting high from the POC getting in through the vents, i saw considerably less drips.
did a compression test and saw about 160 psi IIRC.

i didnt build the engine so i dont know what the condition of it is.



the reason i would like to start over with a new block is to be able to utilize a roller camshaft.
of course then i would want to get vortec heads ect...

SpitotRs305

the knock sensor is a reaction to the even not a psychic device that predicts it while it will save the engine from out right destruction repeated small bursts required to actually set the sensor off is what will destroy the engine

btw 160psi isnt bad...did you test it with the throttle open or closed? all cylinders about the same?

did you do a leak down test to see if its the rings or valves leaking?

well no matter what the engine has to come out wether you rebuld it or replace it so why not start there stip it down and find out what you have to work with before deciding what you are going to do

RED_DRAGON_85

the chain of events goes like this if i use midgrade or (EEK) regular gas...
foot to floor (or with regular, about halfway there)
ka-ka-ka-crackalacka-kaka-ka-ka
after about 1/4 to 1/2 second, check engine light comes on and detonation ceases.
car has very little power and i have to restart it to get power back.

trust me, its detonation, i know what it sounds like.


im not 100% on the 160 psi.
i only did a few easy random cylinders so i dont know if they are all even but they were all pretty close.
leakdown? no

SpitotRs305

never said it wasnt detonation... as a matter of fact i said it has seen alot of detonation...

which would make it more likely that the detonation has caused all of your problems not just the incompetence of the last owner

RED_DRAGON_85

im confused.
if i run premium i have full normal power. no problems, no check engine lights... ect...
if i accidentally put in midgrade (some pumps put premium in the middle for some reason) then i have all kinds of issues.

im confused though about how this could have started the problem when it was leaking oil before i goofed up in the first place... the PO could have put in regular gas for all i know, but i still fail to see how this could cause the RMS to go out...

im not trying to start a pissing contest over who said what... its clearly printed in your and my posts what we each said.


anyway, back on topic.
what is the best course of action for me now.
i am assuming the heads are 58 cc.
with flat top pistons thats around 12.8:1, which is about on the limit of pump gas.
with a big cam the DCR could go down a lot, but thats not any fun in everyday driving, where this car will honestly spend its time.
i MAY make a pass at the 1/4 when the whole thing is done just for ***** and giggles but i havent gone yet (leaks oil) and havent really have much motivation to go.


so, the issues i have at hand are:
professionally rebuilt roller cam block or rebuild flat tappet block.

junkyard generic heads vs junkyard vortec heads vs keep 58cc 305 heads

buy a new cam or keep current cam with engine block

thanks