Alright guys, I'm looking to invest into a Firebird.... Between the years of 1987 and 1989.... Once I buy the actual car itself, I will be swapping out the engine for a 383 stroker.... What model (or trim) do you suggest I buy? ie: formula, trans am, GTA.
Also, would a an automatic or manual transmission be better/ more reliable when it comes to handling the amount of power that I want; which will be around 500hp.
By the way, I have "around" $6,000 to $8,000 to spend on the car, and about $3,000 to $4000 to spend on a motor.
The more tips the better.... Thank you

 

for 8k you can get a 13 sec. car with a 383 already i would look into buying a rolling chassis with minimal rust. It shouldnt be hard to find or even a non running V8 car. When you start looking be sure its a V8 motor for an easier swap.

 

What if I want to get into the 12's?
And also are you saying 8k bought straight from someone else?
Whats ur opinion on the tranny to handle that type of power?
manual.... automatic?

 

i would look for a 3000 dollar car, and spend the rest of the money on the engine and upgrading the rest of the drivetrain.

500 horsepower isnt worth **** if the trans, driveshaft and rear are not built to handle it, and the rest of the suspension would need upgrading too.

the car would have a 700r4 or a t5, both would not handle the 500 horsepower stock, the t5 wont handle it period, even if upgraded. It all depends on what you want to do with the car.

 

Yeah definitely, believe me I am going to be getting it all done up.... but my biggest concern (for now) is deciding what trim level/ model to start out with.... I know I want an 87-89 but im not sure if i should go with the GTA, formula or T/A... and once I pick which I want, how to alter the tranny/ engine to get it into the 500 hp range.

 

well, the formula would have the best suspension, but thats really only swaybar sizing. The GTA and TA would only have it as an option.

It would really depend on what you like, the car with the ground effects or without. Obviously without would be lighter.

 

I definitely do like the ground effects... The additional weight probably wont be too big of an issue

 

I want to **** on ricers basically lol.... I want to be able to cruise with it, and race with it.... I want it to be a street car, just a fast street car.

 

the tranny depends on what your looking for if you want a stick then go with stick otherwise go with auto. You have to be a good driver with stick to get into the 12's. With that being said autos are easier to drive and can handle all sorts of different power. What is this car primarily being used for street or strip?

Here are some figures you should expect to pay for parts
(these are all based on what i have seen or used):

Fully forged 383 rotating assembly --> $2000
12-Bolt rear end -----------------------> $2000
built auto tranny -----------------------> $1500 maybe less
torque converter -----------------------> $500
Tremec TKO600 (Built 5speed)--------> $2500+

thats just the major parts not including suspension stuff, tires, wheels. On a side note the rotating assembly is also balanced for that price.

thats why i would look into a rolling chassis just b/c your going to be putting a 350 into the car either way and it will bolt into the existing 305 motor mounts.

 

if i was you i wouldn't go with a gta, thats just extra money you don't have to spent, i would think a fomula would probly be your best bet

 

So an auto tranny would be able to handle 500+ horses.... Sounds like an auto would be the best bet then....

Next job, figuring out whether to get a formula or a T/A.... I do like the ground effects though.... So does it really matter how many miles would be on the engine, body, and tranny if im going to mostly redo everything?

 

body yes, engine, tranny no, with a little work you might be able to make that 10 bolt survive under 500hp. Are you talking rwhp or bhp (rear wheel horsepower or flywheel horsepower?)

 

I want the power to the wheels

 

so your gonna want a 12 bolt or 9 inch. The trim is personal preference. I like having the body kit on my IROC but others prefer to not have it. Like i said before as long as it has a V8 it will save some headache.

 

Okay, yeah I definitely want the body kit on my bird.... It just looks too bad *** to pass up haha

 

i almost forgot to add to your list of parts $1200 for a set of heads. all the other odds and end crap will cost ya about $700 depending on cam, lifters, rockers, pushrods but thats including timing chain and sprockets,gaskets and you'll need distributor.

here is a website you can get a long block for cheaper probably www.pawinc.com they have great prices.

 

I figured there would be some additional costs that will wiggle their way in there.... Last thing. When im looking for an engine, what should I look for?

And you said the tranny would be able to handle the power right

 

here is a nice setup but the block is standard bore.
https://secure.pawengineparts.com/377_4N_Chevy.html

 

ya you'll have to look around but pro-built transmissions make nice trannys i hear. I don't personally have one but if you do a search on here or just ask in the drivetrain forum people will be able to be a little more specific.

 

400hp is all you need to touch 12's.. a true 500hp will get you deeeeep into the 11's.. those motors are usually a bit more wild and require premium gas, a high stall converter and steep gears. as well as a beefed up rearend and trans.

anything over 300hp at the wheels should run at least 12.9 depending on weight. if you can find an LSX swapped 3rdgen, they should run near 13.0 with a bone stock motor. upgrades will only help.

 

500whp will put that car in the mid 10's and you wont make that power n/a on the 383 unless your talking solid roller/big headed beast that wont be very streetable. Its somewhat possible to do it as LT1 guys have done that power but the car is very aggressive for a street car and you wont beable to do it for less than 7 grand on motor.

I had well over 7K in my last 383 i built and it made 500+whp with a nitrous shot, 400whp on motor. Ran well into the 11's on motor and mid 10's on spray. I was running mild rebuilt 700r4 auto trans which cost 1000 bucks to rebuild, and stock 10 bolt rear from a LS1 trans am car. It held fine for me but some dont have luck with them.

For 12's you dont need much more than a LT4 cammed L98 with a stealth ram or miniram and a tune. you can do that for around 1000 bucks. throw another 1500 or so in a fresh bottom end and you'll have a good cheap reliable fairly quick car. Throw a set of heads on it for 1000-1500 and bigger cam and your well into the low 12's without too much stress on the motor. Possible high 11's. There are guys here and on the vette forum with cammed/headed stock bottom end L98s with minirams/stealth rams doing 11's

AS far as car, go with a V8/auto car and try to find one with lower miles and is clean. Much better platform to start with. 3-5 grand will get you a nice thirdgen. Mine was 4800 with 131K on the clock but all highway miles and it was mint, not a spot of rust.