Im looking into budiling a engine for the first time and want to have some fun with it to, but im not sure what to look for in a good core. Im thinking of having a mild engine hopfully being able to handle up to 300-350 horses. so im wondering am i going to need a block with things like 4 bolt mains, 1 piece rear mains, a roller cam,..ect or would a simple block do for me. Also if i need these things what year blocks/vehicles would i be looking for.

 

Welcome aboard.

What block to look for would depend a lot on your intentions with the engine. With your desired power level being fairly mild, a 4 bolt vs. a 2 bolt really isn't an issue as either would be just fine.

If you're looking into putting a hydraulic roller cam into the engine, then you would be better off looking for an 87-up block. They're all roller blocks. Cars got roller cams, trucks got roller blocks but flat tappet cams. 1 pc RMS vs 2 is also a non-issue as all late models would be 1 pc and earlier would be a 2 pc.

Once you decide what camshaft style you're after, it's pretty simple as blocks are a dime a dozen.

Depending on your budget, you may want to look for the mid to late 90's Vortec 350. That's a roller block and the vortec heads, which are a pretty decent bolt on over many stock small chevy castings. But if you're going for aftermarket castings, then just go for a 350 and look one by years.

 

so ive found somthing im interested in its a 79 350 4 bolt main. If im correct it should be flat tappet cam and a 2 piece rear. i know you recomended a hydraulic cam but from reading other then how it works the flat tappet may just take a spring with higher tension or a double spring? also a higher wear rate? thanks for the welcome and all your help

 

Yep, it's a flat tappet block, as well as a 2pc rear.

Roller cams *typically* take the slightly heavier springs, as the roller cams have steeper lobe profiles (the cam opens the valves further per degree of cam rotation) than flat tappets. I've done double springs on flat tappets, though, without issue. The general suggestion is that you pick your cam, and most always the cam company will recommend a certain valve spring to use. That takes the guesswork out of which spring.

 

some of the adds i look at mention there 010 castings i belive this means the percent of nickle it has in it correct. also came across somone saying they had a 010 020 block whick was tin and nickle and a person responded he would rather have a 2 bolt with 010 020 then a 4 bolt 010 what are the pros and cons and is this more extream build? sorry if i ask alot of questions i just like to do my home work before i dive into somthing thanks for all the help

 

For people who are going to be pushing higher levels of power in their builds, that's when you'll see people saying the "010 blocks can take more power." Personally, if you want to scour for a 010 block, find one with an 020 as well. Those are high nickle and high tin. If you're only looking for mid-300's, then really the only thing you'll gain from one of those 010/020 blocks is wear-resistance on the piston walls. Again, not really an issue, though - based on your desired power levels.

Basically, the ones who say that they would take a 2 bolt over a 4 bolt are probably either thinking along the lines of main webbing (2 bolt would have more material around the main journals) or for the possibility of going 4 bolt splayed caps - which is most likely the case.

Personally, if I were to have to go find a block, I would get one with a 1pc rear seal. I would take a leak-proof RMS over the high tin/nickle blocks. Either 2 or 4 bolt mains. Personally, if I'm planning a motor that makes enough power to make me consider main cap strength, I get an aftermarket block.

 

When people mention that its an '010' casting, that is the last 3 digits of the casting number on the block, which is a part number, nothing to do with the metallurgy of the block.

'010' castings were used from 1969-79 and it was a 4.00" bore block, available with either 2-bolt or 4-bolt mains (either is fine for your somewhat modest goals). It was a flat-tappet block as well. That block was used for the 302ci, 327ci, and 350ci engines, but 99% of them are 350ci's.

This block has a 2-piece rear main seal, so you'll need a flywheel or flexplate from an '82-85 F-body 305. It also has the dipstick boss on the drivers side, so using cast iron exhaust manifolds with that can be tricky. If you use headers, then its a non-issue.

Just my 2 cents -- Don't get all tied up with it being a 2-bolt or 4-bolt main engine. As they came from GM, the 4-bolt isn't significantly stronger than the 2-bolt (which is plenty strong anyway). I'm using an '010' block 350 in my Camaro, with 2-bolt mains and a cast crank and I'm making 400+hp. It hasn't given me any problems. I even had the pan off a few months ago to change the leaking gasket, and checked it over internally and it looks just like it did when it only made 200hp with smog heads and a weak cam.

Look for a core thats in good shape, more than anything else - minimal core shift, no cracks or warping, low mileage is good, etc etc.

Also, the post above this one is coming from a guy who also knows his stuff, so its also good advice.

 

Adam is correct about the casting numbers vs the metallurgic properties. To expand on what Adam was saying regarding the 010 confusion, the 010/020 that refers to the nickel and tin content is stamped under the timing cover. The 010 that indicates a 4.00" bore is the casting number. Were you to look for a block with the nickel and tin content, you would have to remove the timing cover.

As a side thought, for the nickel and tin blocks, with their added strength, they would also further resist core shift, cracks, warping, cylinder wall wear, etc. Just food for thought.

What are the overall build plans for the engine?

 

nothing big, i was just asking what these things meant but i think i got a better idea on what to look for because of your guys help im gonna keep looking till i find the right price and right engine thanks much im sure when i get it ill ask many other questions

 

My advice - look for a 350 from an '87 or newer car or truck... then you get the better 1-piece rear seal design, and the factory roller cam provisions, and the dipstick is on the correct side for your vehicle. IIRC the casting number for the roller cam 350 block is either 637 or 687, I can't remember which one now. They are not hard to find.

(all cars got roller cams, about a 50/50 shot with a truck motor because they didn't use a roller cam, but did use the 'roller cam' blocks, but just needs a little finish machining to have it added if it doesnt have it).