I wanna beat an LS1
03-09-2009, 07:56 PM
#51
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
if u want the ultimate strength get the billet main caps for splayed 2bolts. they have to bolted on and then machined for the crank centerline.
why not go for a 6speed? get that extra highway gear for cruizing and better MPG?
compression is alil flakey... higher compression like 10:1 would be nice to get more power outa the engine but it limits yourself on fuel u can use. this then increases gas price etc. running lower compression allows u to run lower octane fuel which will cost less but u will be sacrificing a small amount of power. higher compression also means you have to have it tuned correctly.
depends on what u would want to do really. lower compression wont be that great and will run like a dog. i would suggest at least 9.3 which is stock i believe but most ppl when not running superchargers/turbos like to run 9.8 or higher. turbos/supercharges need really low compression like 8.2-8.5 compression. also a 10:1 motor can run on high octane pump gas and NOS likes higher compression motors. just need to watch with the tuning and detonation etc.
im going with the XFI280, 230-236 .571/.567 and 113 lobe with my patriot 195cc heads i'll be putting out 480hp and 500tq. estimated.
why not go for a 6speed? get that extra highway gear for cruizing and better MPG?
compression is alil flakey... higher compression like 10:1 would be nice to get more power outa the engine but it limits yourself on fuel u can use. this then increases gas price etc. running lower compression allows u to run lower octane fuel which will cost less but u will be sacrificing a small amount of power. higher compression also means you have to have it tuned correctly.
depends on what u would want to do really. lower compression wont be that great and will run like a dog. i would suggest at least 9.3 which is stock i believe but most ppl when not running superchargers/turbos like to run 9.8 or higher. turbos/supercharges need really low compression like 8.2-8.5 compression. also a 10:1 motor can run on high octane pump gas and NOS likes higher compression motors. just need to watch with the tuning and detonation etc.
im going with the XFI280, 230-236 .571/.567 and 113 lobe with my patriot 195cc heads i'll be putting out 480hp and 500tq. estimated.
Last edited by customblackbird; 03-09-2009 at 07:59 PM.
03-09-2009, 08:25 PM
#52
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 310 HSR, TFS heads, zz4 cam
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:70
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
im not worried about mpg. 12mpg on the highway would be fine.
6spds are heavier, and the t-56 is a nightmare with shifting for me... i hate them damned things. pro 5.0 shifter is wut im used to on my t-5.
I only run 93 octane anyways. plus i COULD get 110 leaded but idk how well that would go over.
i was debating the xfi280 myself, but decided i want the 292. I really have no idea wut kind of power ill be making but it will be anywhere inbetween 330 at the wheel to 390ish... with a good tune that ill be attempting myself and im sure others would be glad to help when it comes to that part.
Formula hood HSR friendly do u know?? Keeping stock motor mounts
6spds are heavier, and the t-56 is a nightmare with shifting for me... i hate them damned things. pro 5.0 shifter is wut im used to on my t-5.
I only run 93 octane anyways. plus i COULD get 110 leaded but idk how well that would go over.
i was debating the xfi280 myself, but decided i want the 292. I really have no idea wut kind of power ill be making but it will be anywhere inbetween 330 at the wheel to 390ish... with a good tune that ill be attempting myself and im sure others would be glad to help when it comes to that part.
Formula hood HSR friendly do u know?? Keeping stock motor mounts
03-09-2009, 08:45 PM
#53
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
Spitotrs... your right the 383 will suck in a bunch more air than the 350 and will pull both the HSR and LT1 down in there peak powerbands. still i should be pulling to 5500 with my HSR 383 and xfi280, and patriot 195cc heads. still think the HSR would be a better choice. it will create more Tq/hp down lower and be more fun on the street. what heads u going with? 210s?
The XFI292 will be a good bit rougher on the street esp with its rough idle. the 280 is a pretty big cam but the 292 is a beast. there are a few chip programmers that wont touch my setup with the xfi280.... said its gona be too hard to tune.
that xfi292 is gona want alot of head.... larger than 200cc. like the AFR210s or something. the 240 degrees of duration is gona call for alot of RPM even on a 383 u should be pullin at 6000 with that cam. and u should def be putting 390 at the wheels... im gona be a turd under 380 prob with calculated 24% drivetrain loss.
from what ive heard it will fit under the firebird hoods but u might need to cut the hood bracing alil bit that with stock mounts. but i would suggest poly mounts for ur setup. less engine twist better response. they ususally raise the motor 1/2" but i think the stock rubbers do the same thing. mostly the old rubber mounts have our motors sagging which is why they raise them. i dnt have to worry i have the RAM AIR II hood with 2" extra clearance so i threw my polys on.
The XFI292 will be a good bit rougher on the street esp with its rough idle. the 280 is a pretty big cam but the 292 is a beast. there are a few chip programmers that wont touch my setup with the xfi280.... said its gona be too hard to tune.
that xfi292 is gona want alot of head.... larger than 200cc. like the AFR210s or something. the 240 degrees of duration is gona call for alot of RPM even on a 383 u should be pullin at 6000 with that cam. and u should def be putting 390 at the wheels... im gona be a turd under 380 prob with calculated 24% drivetrain loss.
from what ive heard it will fit under the firebird hoods but u might need to cut the hood bracing alil bit that with stock mounts. but i would suggest poly mounts for ur setup. less engine twist better response. they ususally raise the motor 1/2" but i think the stock rubbers do the same thing. mostly the old rubber mounts have our motors sagging which is why they raise them. i dnt have to worry i have the RAM AIR II hood with 2" extra clearance so i threw my polys on.
03-09-2009, 09:02 PM
#54
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
sry i just reread that avout the procomp heads... so your set on them? is that really 599$ for 2 complete set of heads? if thats the case thats really low. but as ppl have stated they are from china... ive seen some messed up SHlT from china! u have to be careful with heads like that, its hit or miss with them. some ppl have no probs and some ppl have huge problems. u could get them just hope u get a good set. also i didnt see any of there flow rates... and i would have thought they would have 2.08 intake valves.
i went with patriot 195cc heads... they are super cheap as well but ive heard more positive things about them. i got mine for 867 shipped with partial CNC combustion chamber blend, ported, 5angle valve job, vitton seals, stainless valves swirl polished, extra long 3/8 screw in roller rocker studs, dual valve springs good for over .600 lift roller cams and guidplates. flows 264cfm intake at .6 lift and 185cfm exhaust. i have since port matched them to felpro 1206s. alot of ppl said not to buy them etc but i heard good things about them and they were in my price range.
i went with patriot 195cc heads... they are super cheap as well but ive heard more positive things about them. i got mine for 867 shipped with partial CNC combustion chamber blend, ported, 5angle valve job, vitton seals, stainless valves swirl polished, extra long 3/8 screw in roller rocker studs, dual valve springs good for over .600 lift roller cams and guidplates. flows 264cfm intake at .6 lift and 185cfm exhaust. i have since port matched them to felpro 1206s. alot of ppl said not to buy them etc but i heard good things about them and they were in my price range.
03-09-2009, 09:09 PM
#55
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
yea the non cnc 210's. 1.6rr's .. and iknow its a beast of a cam 
. I just hope it is tunable. may even just have to run open-loop constantly.
I think im gonna try to spin the motor to 6300 or so now. Idk how much more its gonna cost for the bottom end to handle that but it kinda seems stupid if i dont..
I guess ill go the poly mount route but I REALLy dont want a new hood, i like the formula hood. I'll run w/o one b4 i swap on a new one.
still dont know if i should go dome or flat top pistons...
. I just hope it is tunable. may even just have to run open-loop constantly.I think im gonna try to spin the motor to 6300 or so now. Idk how much more its gonna cost for the bottom end to handle that but it kinda seems stupid if i dont..
I guess ill go the poly mount route but I REALLy dont want a new hood, i like the formula hood. I'll run w/o one b4 i swap on a new one.
still dont know if i should go dome or flat top pistons...
03-09-2009, 09:21 PM
#57
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
its gona be tough to tune. i have to get my SHlT from moates to tune mine as well since no one wants to touch it. and i like u have never tuned. should be interesting lol.
did u find the flow rates on the procomp heads?
since ur planning on running above 6000rpms u really dont have a choice with short blocks. i wouldnt throw a cast crank in there since u'll be pushing the HP max of them and going above there rated RPM. ur prob gona be getting a forged crank, rods and pistons. hope ur ready for the 1500 price tag of that type of rotating assembly lol. im in same boat... i could get a kit for 900 or 1500 huge price diff but im gona be pushing the limits of a cast crank too
u have to choose the pistons that will give u the compression u need. flat tops will prob be in the 10-11:1 range which is what u want. you have 64cc chambers so u have to figure it out. most compaines post comp ratios with there kits for 58/64/72cc heads.
did u find the flow rates on the procomp heads?
since ur planning on running above 6000rpms u really dont have a choice with short blocks. i wouldnt throw a cast crank in there since u'll be pushing the HP max of them and going above there rated RPM. ur prob gona be getting a forged crank, rods and pistons. hope ur ready for the 1500 price tag of that type of rotating assembly lol. im in same boat... i could get a kit for 900 or 1500 huge price diff but im gona be pushing the limits of a cast crank too
u have to choose the pistons that will give u the compression u need. flat tops will prob be in the 10-11:1 range which is what u want. you have 64cc chambers so u have to figure it out. most compaines post comp ratios with there kits for 58/64/72cc heads.
03-09-2009, 09:55 PM
#58
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
damnit... I really didnt wanna go forged! expensive... o well, i guess ill get some peace of mind with it... i guess its gonna be 2 months b4 i get my engine built now so that i can have that and the tko put in at the same time. maybe the stimulus check can help time.
Spitot- thx for the info on the lt1 intake, but i think ive made up my mind on the HSR... Don't really want to have a stock type intake on my engine.
Spitot- thx for the info on the lt1 intake, but i think ive made up my mind on the HSR... Don't really want to have a stock type intake on my engine.
03-09-2009, 10:52 PM
#59
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
500hp is usually wat the aftermarket cast cranks are rated too. but some builders say theyve seen them live up to 700hp. supposidly ur pushing it past 500 tho id think.forged would be better incase u decide to spray it etc. are we still getting that stimulous check? expected time?
ive seen ford fox bodies dip into the 10s-11s with a 150shot wiht stock short blocks. they have 2bolt mains, cast cranks and forged pistons. my friend is running high 11s with that combo
ive seen ford fox bodies dip into the 10s-11s with a 150shot wiht stock short blocks. they have 2bolt mains, cast cranks and forged pistons. my friend is running high 11s with that combo
03-09-2009, 10:55 PM
#60
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
no nos, no forced induction, just raw n/a power
i thought we were getting it? maybe not?
i thought we were getting it? maybe not?
03-09-2009, 11:49 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
yea my friend just pointed that out to me, said they are more focused on smaller businesses surviving this time.
wuts a good value for an all forged internals small block 383 including oil pump/pan/timing chain and cover?
I plan to have my heads, cam, rockers, lifters, pushrods, gear drive, shipped to the company building my short block and having them assemble all of that.
im hoping 2500-3000 wouldnt be out of the question.
wuts a good value for an all forged internals small block 383 including oil pump/pan/timing chain and cover?
I plan to have my heads, cam, rockers, lifters, pushrods, gear drive, shipped to the company building my short block and having them assemble all of that.
im hoping 2500-3000 wouldnt be out of the question.
03-10-2009, 03:56 AM
#63
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
forged internal kits run 1400 on up... and some have to be balanced so thats extra. oil pump is like 50$ timing chain is cheap less than 50$ timing cover can be cheap like 15$ or expensive like 150$. oil pan could be your stocker or get a stock replacemtn for like 60$ or spend 160$ on a larger moroso etc. then u have 600$ for those heads, pushrods are 30-100$ cam XFI is like 300 i think. rockers can be 160-300$ id say ur over 3000 when u think about assembly. and u have to get injectors. they can be 200-300$ since u'll prob need 30-36lb injectors depending on ur expected hp output. then u have block prep, that includes acid dip, magnaflux, boring .030, cam and crank alighn, and hone the cylinders.... thats at least 400$ but u have the splayin of the main caps. then u have to take into account the fastners price for the whole engine. i use nothing but ARP on everthing from intake, head, mains, cam, oil pump,flexplate, tq converter. etc. your over 3000 with just all that.
03-10-2009, 04:53 AM
#64
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
Yeah, ARP all the way. We can agree on that. The T-56 is a great trans. (Tough too) They are not impossible to break though. I managed to kill mine with the LS-1, but had it rebuilt. They can be had pretty cheap and a stock one will handle well over 450 hp.
03-10-2009, 08:56 AM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
hope this is not a dumb question, but can a t56 work with a 305 lo3?
03-10-2009, 03:12 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
you might want to reconsider going carb at this point... even just for price it would be cheaper much cheaper and easier to tune with that cam of yours... a nice holley double pumper... around 800CFM and a intake could probably be had for around half what the HSR is going to cost you in the long run
03-10-2009, 03:26 PM
#67
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
no, i didnt want the heads and all that factored in... just the bolock, oil pan/pump, timin chain/cover, rotating assembly all put together... i have most of that already... i just wanted to know if 3000 was enough for the block and assembly alone
03-10-2009, 05:27 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
yea Eagle is the way i wanna go... so, a splayed 2 bolt with eagle forged internals can be spun to wut recommended rpm??
03-11-2009, 03:39 AM
#71
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
ummm any RPM u want lol. ive heard some bad stuff about eagle cast rotating assemblies and that scats stuff is better. im sure there forged stuff is better. forged stuff can be spun to 7000 pretty easily. u cant really get better than forged. besides better forgings and material. but forged assemblies with the 4340 are good for 1000hp.
03-11-2009, 03:53 AM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
alright, cool. as i have no idea wut rpm im gonna need to bring my engine too now. any good guesses? HSR, 210cc heads flowing 260cfm @.6 lift. 292xfi.
03-11-2009, 06:00 PM
#73
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
just got off the phone with my engine builder... for the 4340 forged internals, 383 sbc 1pc rear main 4bolt, flywheel, all balanced, timing gears, dampner, pump, pan, heads installed including all valvetrain. totals to 2250!!! that a deal??
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
03-11-2009, 06:35 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
just got off the phone with my engine builder... for the 4340 forged internals, 383 sbc 1pc rear main 4bolt, flywheel, all balanced, timing gears, dampner, pump, pan, heads installed including all valvetrain. totals to 2250!!! that a deal??
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
03-11-2009, 06:54 PM
#75
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
didnt ask, but im sure there wont be for wut im gonna use it for, ill call them back tomorrow, they r closed now.
edit: "1 year unlimited mileage warranty"
edit: "1 year unlimited mileage warranty"
03-11-2009, 06:57 PM
#76
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
which brand injectors do you reccommend?? 30#'s
i know sum of you are gonna frown on me for this one but, i already have a gear drive thats been waiting for 2 yrs to be installed, im gonna have that put in, but im really worried its gonna mess with my knock sensor? so i have a few options and need recommendations...
1) use the double roller for tuning purposes then put in the gear drive and see if it messes with the knock sensor, and if it does, delete knock sensor
2) have gear drive installed with the build(cheaper). attempt tune with it in, if that fails, erase the knock sensor
or this applies to 1 and 2, if the gear drive messes with the sensor, try to use the teflon tape to sort of desensitize the knock sensor...
In all honesty, would it really be that bad w/o a knock sensor? carbed engines dont have one do they??
i know sum of you are gonna frown on me for this one but, i already have a gear drive thats been waiting for 2 yrs to be installed, im gonna have that put in, but im really worried its gonna mess with my knock sensor? so i have a few options and need recommendations...
1) use the double roller for tuning purposes then put in the gear drive and see if it messes with the knock sensor, and if it does, delete knock sensor
2) have gear drive installed with the build(cheaper). attempt tune with it in, if that fails, erase the knock sensor
or this applies to 1 and 2, if the gear drive messes with the sensor, try to use the teflon tape to sort of desensitize the knock sensor...
In all honesty, would it really be that bad w/o a knock sensor? carbed engines dont have one do they??
Last edited by Nater36; 03-11-2009 at 07:27 PM.
03-11-2009, 07:22 PM
#77
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
spitot- im goin hsr, already purchased tuning equipment, plus carb is for lazy ppl anyway 
03-11-2009, 10:58 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
just got off the phone with my engine builder... for the 4340 forged internals, 383 sbc 1pc rear main 4bolt, flywheel, all balanced, timing gears, dampner, pump, pan, heads installed including all valvetrain. totals to 2250!!! that a deal??
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
www.fivestarengines.com is who im going through.
03-12-2009, 06:59 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
I wouldn't run the gear drive, especially if its a 'noisy' type. If you are staying with EFI, it will drive the knock sensor crazy, just like solid lifters do, and it will probably never run right or tune well. ECM will always be trying to pull timing out or it, because it will think there is some detonation problem.
03-12-2009, 08:31 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
i'll 2nd the gear drive. Ive got the "quite" one installed in my 383. True it does sound like u have a blower or somethin like that BUT you cant hear if anything is going wrong with your engine. Any knock or ping will NEVER be heard. The first thing i do when i go into my engine will be to put a double roller in!
03-13-2009, 12:06 AM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
guess ill have to try 2 sell that too along with the 22# injectors...
03-13-2009, 12:24 AM
#82
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
yeah, thats a good deal. I would stay away from gear drives. There are some guys on here who run them with efi. Some say "no problem", while others had to unplug their knock sensor. If you like it loud, go with a 4 inch mufflex single chamber exhaust system. That sounds good and mean.
03-13-2009, 12:41 AM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
im gonna delete the cats, and all smog bull****... run 3" pipe from each header to where the orignal cats y together and run them into a single 4" pipe, up over the axle, then curve it around into a T and run a 4" bullet muffler on each side of the T, out to 4" tips.... if thats too loud ill just add one of those spiral mufflers right after the Y. I already have the bullets.
03-13-2009, 01:53 AM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
im really aiming for the DEEP loud. Dont want anything raspy or high pitched. I'm hoping ill be able to accomplish this
03-13-2009, 02:50 PM
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
good, i was hoping so.
BUT, i just got some bad news today
Me and 6 other ppl just got laid off, and it doesnt look like we will be goin back for several months. wonderful, i knew somethin would happen today on fri 13
however, i just got offered a job w/ better pay too tho. hiring in 3 weeks, so i guess im stuck for another 3 weeks on top of the 2 months i was gonna have to wait. but, better pay means bigger project I'm gonna be needin a lot of opinions/advice on suspension after the engine/tranny goes in!!
P.S. ill probly be goin w/ better heads now, so I need everyone to give me the best option for my build. try to keep em around 1700 or less tho.
BUT, i just got some bad news today
Me and 6 other ppl just got laid off, and it doesnt look like we will be goin back for several months. wonderful, i knew somethin would happen today on fri 13
however, i just got offered a job w/ better pay too tho. hiring in 3 weeks, so i guess im stuck for another 3 weeks on top of the 2 months i was gonna have to wait. but, better pay means bigger project
I'm gonna be needin a lot of opinions/advice on suspension after the engine/tranny goes in!!P.S. ill probly be goin w/ better heads now, so I need everyone to give me the best option for my build. try to keep em around 1700 or less tho.
03-15-2009, 05:06 PM
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Engine: 310 HSR, TFS heads, zz4 cam
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:70
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
what do you guys think about solid motor mounts from UMI?
i looked at mine and the rubber ones are sagging BAD haha.
will they raise my motor too much? or not at all?
i looked at mine and the rubber ones are sagging BAD haha.
will they raise my motor too much? or not at all?
03-15-2009, 05:26 PM
#90
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Re: I wanna beat an LS1
im planing to port and polish the heads of my GTA with the 350 how much HP u think ill make or would it be better to purchase some vortec heads?
GM greatly under rated the LS1 motors... they say 300hp and 330hp for the ram air firebirds... those numbers where way higher in stock form. most made at least 340hp with no mods.
where the LS1 gets us is at the end... we can beat them at first bc we have the tq down low to get our ars out of the hole. but our power drops off substantially in the upper RPM ranges which where the LS1 lives! and is why he pulled away from u at 100.
u say your motor pulled to 6k.... im gona tell u that u must have fairy dust in ur TPI runners cuz most fully ported I MEAN EXTREME ported TPIs dont rev that high. u would need ported plenum, larger and ported runners and a fully ported aftermarket larger base etc... which u dont have. what u felt was the Flat tq/hp of the TPI when u get above 4200-4800rpms.
if u really want to beat him. stock heads arent gona cut it. even ported u cant make more than 300-325hp with them. i would say sell them and get a pair of vortecs... Scoggin dickey sells modified ones for lift up to .600 lift for like 400 each. and they flow enough for over alil over 400hp. match that with the GM hot cam. 218/228 .525/.525 lift roller cam and the vortec HSR and u have 400hp probably. and u will be able to rev to 6k with no prob and still be making power. u'll stomp all over him. dnt worry about the short block the stock 350tpi block will be ok at 400hp. best part is u dont need 10:1 compression.
9.3 to 9.8 will be fine with a HEI distributer. regular plugs but i would upgrade the coil to a high output and replace the stock control modual with an aftermarket ACCEL or MSD. it will give u a hotter spark and higher RPM firing for ur 6K blasts. and should only cost 80$ to upgrade ur HEI.
vortec heads=800$ from scoggin dickey
GM hot cam= 175$ from scoggin dickey
HSR vortec style= 500$ complete, HSR/fuel rails/AJFPR=summit
throw on sum 1.6RR=140$
oh and u'll need 24lb injectors.=150$
and walla! u got 400hp easily. the stock L98 heads arent gona flow enough no matter how much work u put into them, esp the money u would put into porting them wont give u the same flow as stock vortecs out of the box. selling them will help with costs. same wiht selling the cam if u want to. and either return/sell the injectors. u will not beat him with ported L98 heads and a HSR. ported heads/HSR is good for about 260rwhp.
where the LS1 gets us is at the end... we can beat them at first bc we have the tq down low to get our ars out of the hole. but our power drops off substantially in the upper RPM ranges which where the LS1 lives! and is why he pulled away from u at 100.
u say your motor pulled to 6k.... im gona tell u that u must have fairy dust in ur TPI runners cuz most fully ported I MEAN EXTREME ported TPIs dont rev that high. u would need ported plenum, larger and ported runners and a fully ported aftermarket larger base etc... which u dont have. what u felt was the Flat tq/hp of the TPI when u get above 4200-4800rpms.
if u really want to beat him. stock heads arent gona cut it. even ported u cant make more than 300-325hp with them. i would say sell them and get a pair of vortecs... Scoggin dickey sells modified ones for lift up to .600 lift for like 400 each. and they flow enough for over alil over 400hp. match that with the GM hot cam. 218/228 .525/.525 lift roller cam and the vortec HSR and u have 400hp probably. and u will be able to rev to 6k with no prob and still be making power. u'll stomp all over him. dnt worry about the short block the stock 350tpi block will be ok at 400hp. best part is u dont need 10:1 compression.
9.3 to 9.8 will be fine with a HEI distributer. regular plugs but i would upgrade the coil to a high output and replace the stock control modual with an aftermarket ACCEL or MSD. it will give u a hotter spark and higher RPM firing for ur 6K blasts. and should only cost 80$ to upgrade ur HEI.
vortec heads=800$ from scoggin dickey
GM hot cam= 175$ from scoggin dickey
HSR vortec style= 500$ complete, HSR/fuel rails/AJFPR=summit
throw on sum 1.6RR=140$
oh and u'll need 24lb injectors.=150$
and walla! u got 400hp easily. the stock L98 heads arent gona flow enough no matter how much work u put into them, esp the money u would put into porting them wont give u the same flow as stock vortecs out of the box. selling them will help with costs. same wiht selling the cam if u want to. and either return/sell the injectors. u will not beat him with ported L98 heads and a HSR. ported heads/HSR is good for about 260rwhp.
03-15-2009, 05:27 PM
#91
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: 310 HSR, TFS heads, zz4 cam
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3:70
Re: I wanna beat an LS1
haha, i didnt think so. ill go with poly.
btw, i had a shop put in my 3:73 gears. ever since i heard a clumping noise. figured it was just a bad shock or something... well i went outside and idk wut caused me too but i shook my back tire and it made the noise, both rear tires did this. its not the lug nuts, they are tight. should i go tell the shop? its been parked for 2 months now. and been 5 months since they installed them.
btw, i had a shop put in my 3:73 gears. ever since i heard a clumping noise. figured it was just a bad shock or something... well i went outside and idk wut caused me too but i shook my back tire and it made the noise, both rear tires did this. its not the lug nuts, they are tight. should i go tell the shop? its been parked for 2 months now. and been 5 months since they installed them.
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