quickL98

iTrader: (2)

on what basis does someone determine wether or not it is necessary to advance or retard a cam a few degrees?

if i am using an accell super ram(74196) and an accell 74219 cam (.525 lift- .219 dur) would i install the cam straight up since i would be using parts designed to work with one another.

i do not know if cyl' heads being used makes a difference in this decision, i am using gmpp fast burn heads.

some experiences and input would be appreciated

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

whats this going on?

Generally you want to advance the cam to favor low end power and a lower peak hp rpm, and retard the cam for some more topend hp. If the cam you are using is slightly small for the motor build, you can retard it 2-4 degrees and make it act larger. Retarding the cam closes the intake valve later, so it will shift the power band to a higher rpm. Advance does the opposite.

LPE 219 cam should have 4 degrees advance ground in, or so i believe. 112 lsa but install it on a 108 intake centerline. If this is going in a 383 or something, i'd install it on a 110 or even 112 ICL to give that cam abit more power in the top end as that 383 stroker will want it there. Cubic inches and stroke tame down cams so you should run a bit larger cam on a 383 since the LPE is a great 350 cam.

If its going on a 350-355 inch motor that has decent compression, good flowing heads *fastburns are decent* and a good flowing intake manifold *mild ported superram, but out the box they are pretty good* then retard it 2 degrees as well. 110 ICL. You will give up abit of torque but really help pick up some power

But that cam and superram combo is tried and true. makes good power and works well together. For a more mild 350-355, i'd keep it as the cam card states, which i think is a 108 icl. Superram will want to pull to 5500-5600 and start to die off out the box. LPE cam will make power to 5800 on a 108 ICL like the lt4 hotcam so retarding it abit more is kind of pointless on a stock superram/350 setup. Ported and such may allow it to pull to 5700-5800 or so abit of cam retard will help boost power in that 5500-5800 range.

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

its going in a gmpp 350 4 bolt shortblock with just under 10:1 , my GTA has a manual tranny also. i still have to buy my rockers and pushrods yet.
1. i need to verify if the cam has advance ground in allready
2. i will need a degree wheel i take
3. if no.1 is not ground that way then i need to decide what is the best way to install this cam

i want to make sure i give this set-up every opportunity to make the most it can... if it makes close to 400hp i'll be stoked

this is what i am reusing from the old 355:
30lb inj
58mm TB
1.75 long tubes
mildly ported super ram intake and base
LT1 elbow, modded maf, 4" inlet pipe

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

i re read your reply and understand more clearly, first time around the baby started crying
i feel confident that my intake has been cleaned up opened up pretty well, i will get a degree wheel and try what you said.
i mentioned the manual tranny cause i wasnt sure if that made a difference versus an auto.
with the 355 i figured since my GTA was no lite weight i coupled it with a retrofit centerforce fly wheel(35lb) that works with the older cranks to mate a T-56, i am using a '93 with the 3.36 1st gr. and 3.73's

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

Some years ago, I worked very closely with the guys at Lingenfelters. The recommended install position is 110.5 degrees. Not knowing if your cam is ground straight up or not, a degree wheel is a must.

If you feel that you want to increase more bottom end, install it 108-109.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

There you go, 110 or so is probly where i'd stick it. Use the degree wheel to verify cam timing events and match them to your card if you have one. If not i can get the specs off that cam from desktop dyno as long as i know the durations at .050 and advertised.

Manual does make a little difference. Manual trans has better gear ratios than auto 700r4 so favoring the top end more is helpful, since the rpm drop between shifts is less for a manual than the 700r4. Keep the motor in its rpm powerband and it will run faster. I'd shoot for a 110 ICL with that car with a stick.

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

the cam is still in the accell box with the card as well.
110 it is, im sure i can borrow a degree wheel from one of the guys at work

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

its not all that hard. I did mine last summer for the first time and it took me a minute to figure it all out but once i did i was fine.. It just took me awhile to get the crank gear/cam gear lined up. I had 9 keyways to play with and the straight up position was off on the degree wheel so i advanced it 2 degrees i think to make it match the card.

quickL98

iTrader: (2)

cool deal, i sure i can figure it once i play around with it, i've done alot of motor work before i've just never degree'd a cam,
THANKS FOR THE INFO GUYS!!!!!!

jackballs529

Guys - Just read this post surching on 74219 cam owners. I have been chasing a Stumbly/Miss type idle for years now. I had my 350 rebuilt to a 355 and the shop re-installed my 74219 cam. Is it possible that a cam that wasn't installed correctly could cause a bad idle?