Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Alright so Ive been rebuilding a 400 SBC for the last few months. Im 18, a Senior in High School, and attempting to dip into the 11s with my first build.

I picked the running 400 SBC out of a 79' Chevy Pickup, and brought it home for $400.

Parts I have bought for the build:


* Rear Tires (295/50/15s) Street Driving Tires
* 2 1/2" Harwood Cowl Induction Hood
* Orbital Gel Battery
* 400 SBC
* Fel-Pro Gasket Set
* Proform Gear Drive Set
* Moroso Oil Pan, Pickup, & HV Pump
* Moroso Race Oil Filter
* Gloss Black Engine Paint
* Edelbrock High Volume Fuel Pump
* Proform Water Pump
* Summit Chrome Oil Dipstick
* Power Steering Pump & Bracket
* Headers, Y Pipe, 3 Inch Exhaust, Muffler, & Tips
* Comp Cams .525/.525 Solid Cam & Lifter Set
* Power Master 140 Amp Alternator
* Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake Manifold
* 750 cfm Speed Demon Carb
* UMI Performance Subframe Connectors
* UMI Performance Panhard Bar
* UMI Performance Lower Control Arms
* UMI Performance TH400 Crossmember
* UMI Performance Torque Arm
* UMI Performance Wonderbar
* Rebuilt TH400 Tranny w/ Shift Kit

Before you ask why I did nothing with the bottom end (Crank/Rods/Bore/etc) this is because of a few reasons.

1. (Budget) I cant really afford to go with the bottom end Id like to go with.

2. (Rebuilt) This engine was recently rebuilt before I bought it, and probably has 15k on it. The cylinders look clean too.

3. (Engine) Theoretically it is said small blocks can handle 1 HP per 1 CI, and since I want to get around 400 HP I should be fine with the stock bottom end.

Before you start to go haywire I plan to upgrade my bottom end, I would just like to get a season out of the stock bottom while I can save up. If it goes before the end of the season it goes.

Now Im ready for the top end bit of the motor. I have already picked up a 750 Speed Demon Carb & Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, because I found deals on the Classifieds boards I couldnt pass up. The carb is supposed to have 300 miles on it.



I have decided on the heads I want to use after a long time of research, asking around, and comparing heads with each other. I think Im going to go with a set of 215cc Aluminum Canfield Heads. Jegs sells them (Not listed as Canfields, because they are listed as Jegs Heads) for $650 a Head.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51423/10002/-1

Here is where your opinions come in. The springs on those heads are too big for my cam, so I need help picking out springs that will work for my .525/.525 Comps Cam. I also need help picking out Roller (Or Roller Tip) Rockers that will be best for what I need, and a set of Pushrods.





Here are some pics of my progress:




Mind you this has all come out of my own pocket, and will continue that way. My parents are ok with my build, and my dad is helping me with it, but I pay for all of my cars/parts myself. I work very hard for what I own. That multi-colored Chevy Pickup in the background of the first picture is mine, I also bought that and have been restoring it bit by bit. (Reason for different color doors and primered bed)

Well hopefully you guys can help me pick out springs, rockers, and pushrods because Id like to order it all at the same time and I should have enough considering my income return should have come in.

DJ Delsym

iTrader: (4)

remember that the heads need the steamholes drilled or else it will most likely be prone to over heating. seems like a fun build. good luck.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Yup I already know that Ill need Steam Holes. Do you know what size and number of steam holes Ill need tho?

It should be a good bit of fun when its done, hopefully I can finish by graduation which is in a few months.

Mr355

You could try Comp's site. I'm not positive but there might be somewhere in the site that can tell you the springs you need and the pushrods. I've found the 1.5 full roller rockers by proform are excellent. I dont know for sure if you need 1.5 or 1.6, just be careful that you dont open that valve too much. It would also depend on the length of your pushrod which ratio you go with. I would refuse to put just roller tips on that beauty but I understand your budget issues(reason number one why I dont have the Proform rockers..) as the just the roller tip run like 60-70 dollars and the Full rollerrockers are 160ish. But good choice with the 400 sb.. You rarely see those around here. Good luck though.

Apeiron

SpiderViper

This is very possible with 400hp if you do some 410's r even 373's to keep it street friendly. Good luck with the build and make sure you can get those sub-frame connectors in you'll need them lol however you'll have a hard time getting the exhaust around them if they are anything like mine were. I just went with a cage which you'll have to do if you go below 11.5 depending on your local tracks rules... good luck man im building a 406 aswell, to make with my TKO 500 5 speed they can make some good power the prints I have should make about 580 to the crank...

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

I'm making 400-430 at the flywheel, and I have only managed a 12.8 (mind my shitting driving). I would imagine it would take quite a bit more to shave off .9 more seconds to grab an 11.9x. (Unless you do an all out race setup: weight, suspension, etc)

OR, maybe I'm just that bad of a driver and my car should be doing MUCH better haha

ljnowell

I think that you need a different cam. Get a hydrolic cam, and a better grind.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

11s is doable with 400 WHP. I have been told by a few people I can run 11s with around 375 WHP, but realistically I should have more than 400 HP to the wheels.

I have 3.73s in the rearend now, so I should be good there. Yup I plan on putting the subframe connectors in the car as soon as its driveable so I can take it somewhere that has the right lift Ill need. The 3in Exhaust I bought came out of a Notchback, and from what I remember how it sat on that car I shouldnt have to much of a problem with it and subframe connectors. I plan to put a cage in if I decide to build the motor up a little more next winter. What kind of Heads are you running on your 406?

From what youve told me about your car before I think it should be doing alot better than it is. Im not sure whats going on, but you should be def. in the low 12s. What might be hurting you is your carb, stock suspension, and maybe the 5 Spd.

Stekman

There's a difference between 400 crank and 400 wheel. That setup won't get 400 wheel, it might do 400 crank. Cam is too small. I wouldn't trust a stock bottom end to 400 wheel, either.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Like I said Im on a tight budget and a Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Cam is not in my price range. I got my cam off the Classifieds for $200 shipped, and it was brand new still in box.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Good call.

I think people were confused. In your original post you stated SBC can handle 1 hp/1 ci. 400 FWHP is the way I read that.

With 400 RWHP I would imagine you'll be in that high 11s/low 12s range.

You'd then be looking at 450+ish at the flywheel.

I say build it up with what you've got, take it to the track and see what it does, report back here, and then keep modding . You won't REALLY be satisfied with 11s will you? Haha.

(Even if you wanted 11's, if you go to the track and rip a 12.5, you'll be more than happy. Especially if you haven't driven a car in that range before. I know I was haha. 15's to 12's is a big difference in fun.)

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Its really too small? I want something thats still streetable, because I plan to drive it almost daily, so I didnt want to go too big. I can always upgrade to a bigger cam this summer if I dont like how this one performs I guess.

I know there is a difference between 400 Wheel & 400 Crank HP, I meant to say to the wheels the first time, sorry. If I get 400 HP to the crank by no means will I be disappointed, and the same for if I run low 12s. Its my first build and I can only build it better and faster as I get older.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Sorry about that confusion guys didnt mean to confuse anyone. I plan to do just that. Build it with what I can afford, see how it performs, report back here for suggestions, and just keep building it better/faster/stronger from there. Like I said if I run even low 12s this season I wont be disappointed, but if I run high 11s Ill be stoked! Like you said even a 12.5 wouldnt be horrible for my first build.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Exactly. If you don't have the funds now, just install it the way it is. Trust me, you're NOT going to be disappointed. Sure you may lose out on a few horsepower, but for your first build, who cares. Learn as you go, feel the changes different setups make.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

So now that we have got all of that out of the way (I dont mind talking about my build, but Id like my questions answered too) what springs, rockers, and pushrods do you guys suggest for my build with the 215cc Canfield Heads? Keep in mind my budget, because I dont need the nicest/most expensive parts just good quality affordable parts that will compliment my engine.

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

Did you have the block magged? There is a lot of cracked 400 blocks out there. My first 400 build up was cracked. Nothing worse than firing up your motor only to be greeted with steam pouring out of the exhaust. Magging 400 blocks should be considered mandatory before any other machining operation.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

I bought the motor out of a 79' Chevy Pickup. I had got it to run in the truck before I bought it, so wouldnt it had shown signs of cracks then if it had any? It ran fine with no black/white smoke or steam coming from the exhaust, and it idled fairly well even tho the carb was junk. The only problem it had was a bad carb which I wasnt worried about, because it wasn't staying.

ljnowell

Not hydrolic roller, hydrolic. That type of cam profile doesnt need to be a solid lift cam. Sell it, and spend the money on a better one. Thats one spot you dont want to cut corners on

cheap, fast, reliable. Pick two.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Yes I know the saying..Im going for a balance of all 3.

84Z28406

I've always been told that two cams that are very similar on paper, one being hydraulic flat tappet and one being a solid flat tappet, the solid with outperform the hydraulic due to faster ramp rates. I've decided to put a solid into my 350 this summer.

Stekman

With the way that Comp grinds their XE hydraulic lobe faces, the differences are negligable.

Stippy17

iTrader: (6)

Back to the topic, can anyone help me out?

I need:

Size/Brand Pushrods
Fairly Priced/Brand Roller (Or Roller Tip) Rockers
Size/Brand Springs

These are the Heads Ill be running:

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51423/10002/-1

ljnowell

Pushrods=whatever size you need. Get a pushrod length checker and dummy it up. I like crane, no reason really.
Roller tips?=Ebay specials, I have used several sets of them.
Springs=whatever spring is recomended by cam manufacturer for that cam.

F-BIRD'88

You don;t say what rods or pistons are in this motor so:
camshaft lobe to conecting rod head bolt clearance must be checked.
Comp cams magnum pushrods. You need to mock up the valvetrain with a stock pushrod and then order the right length to get you proper geometry.
The Comp 294S cam will get you well into the 11's with those heads.
Comp cams 987-16 springs will work well.
So will comp 977-16 springs.
Check the spring pressure of the springs that come on the Jegs heads.
Look like dual springs to me and may work fine if set up corrctly.
Installed height and open pressure
you want around 130-140 seat and 330-360 open
(I advise breaking in the new cam with reduced spring pressure.)
Summit house brand 1.6 aluminum roller rockers Sum-G6906 (3/8" studs)
SUM-G6921B (7/16" stud)
Download and read the Jegs instructions for the heads.
Take note: These Jegs aluminum heads have a modified valve centerline position meaning valve to piston clearance must be checked. may not be an issue, but must be checked.

Get long tube headers. You can still join them together with a Y collector into a single big main exhaust pipe (flowmaster Y250300 or Y250350)
Get a 3500 stall 10" converter.
Get some (UMI) lower control arm relocation brackets and Air-Lift air bags.
and a driveshaft safety loop.
These 3 items should be on the top of your rear suspension upgrade list.