jamesh23

are any special tools needed to pull the plugs and where r they located? the car has a tpi engine is that the faster one? it says tuned port injection and the oil was fine, nice and dark.

jamesh23

if he can get ahold of the title nd i give him 500, ill have to sell my current car, i could get about 1300 out of it prolly, so id have 800 to rebuild it and getting it running good and to upgrade if i have money left, im hoping anyway. should I do it?

jamesh23

bump/ anyone?

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

this is as far as i got because i couldnt BELIEVE what you just said.. its a PARTS CAR cause it needs a new fuel pump? WTFFFFF. if you think its a parts car because it needs a FUEL PUMP than maybe i should part mine out to.. i mean its only missing the whole effing engine!

Where is this car located? ill come down there tomorrow to pick it up so some idiot doesnt part it out cause its going to take an afternoon of work to fix. rediculous.


i apologize for ot reading the rest of the thread but i just couldnt get over this first post. a camaro or T/A for 400 buck is pretty tough to come by. say the heads are screwed, you could get it for 400 and buy a 350 from a yard for 500 bucks and have a damn nice car. like i said, either buy it or give me the location. ill buy the damn thing.

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

LMAO!! Its a parts car to him cause he doesn't know where to find the spark plugs. Some things you just don't tell people. That's one of them. Buy a manual at the parts store for god sakes. You will need one anyways. If you can not find the plugs after that then you don't need any car. Turn in your D/L, and take the bus. Sorry but this is just too funny. Honest my wife is even LOL at you now. She knows where the plugs are, & she can't change oil. You need to let someone else get the car. This is not the right one for you man. Trust me, you will have to work on it more then once. Go get yourself a new kia, & call it a day.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

LOL, the plugs are easy to get out. Just follow the eight thick wires that come out of the distributor on the back, top of the engine and then use a ratchet with a 3" extension and a spark plug socket (If I remember right it is a 9/16 socket) and there you are. buy some cotton rope (1/4 inch will work well) and then stuff a foot or so into the spark plug hole. If it comes out wet or orange you have found your wet cylinder. The back plugs are the hardest, especially on the pass side.

RobSS1113

hey James your painting a very perty picture about selling your current car and having 800 bucks left over to fix the camaro in question. First get the title some way shape or form and then deal with the rest.

I guess it depends on where you live, because down here all the PANCHO mechanics will do ALOT of work / labor to your car for that kind of money. but then again if you go up north its probably 2 or 3 x's that.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, Mechanical work is kind of expensive in phoenix. (Why I do my own most of the time.)

jamesh23

ur an fing idiot, i wasnt the one who said its a parts car dumbass, and im 16 for gods sake, i can find plugs on my car, not the camaro though so shut your mouth unless you know what your talkin about.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

the plugs on every engine the same. its right on the side of the engine. if you can find the plugs on a challenger or a GTO or any car ever made, you can find the plugs on a camaro. im not saying you shouldnt buy the car, im just saying a little common knowledge about a car goes a lonnnnng way. spark plugs are the MOST common things on any car.

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

but forreal, but a haynes book from autozone..

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Honest dude. Im not about to get into the name calling games with you. Read the whole thread if you even care why I wrote that. Now about your spazzing out for no good reason; get a manual at the auto parts store. The nerve.

v10viper04

autozone? you for real? The biggest rice hangout up here in NY. They are really stupid there too haha

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

LOL, the ricers hang out EVERYWHERE here! If you can get past them and their fartcan mufflers and useless lighting, you can buy some parts for an american vehicle there. (You just have to ask for the old guy in the back who usually is just sweeping the floor, he remembers v-8's and rear wheel drive!)

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

lol yeah i guess autozone is pretty bad but everywhere is really. got my haynes book from autozone though. thats why i said go there lol.

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, all they have to do is go in the back and look under the piles of newspapers and rat droppings and there, completely protected from the passage of time is the manual! LOL, JK.

89RsPower!

see 1984 L69 305 camaro, faster then 1984 350 cfi corvette.

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

84 L69 camaro= 190hp 240tq
84 cfi vett= 205hp 290tq way lighter then any 3rd gen also.
The camaro has never been as light or had as much power as the vett. In fact the camaro has always had the vett's hand me downs.

RobSS1113

thank you striker

but you know what?? the 1983 4cyl camaro was faster than the 83 Corvette! Thats a FACT !!!

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

Huh?!?! Is that a trick question? There was a vette in 83 right?

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

I would have to see proof of that one. Look it up later.

89RsPower!

Don't let factory ratings fool you, the cfi vette was actually slower then the L69 HO maro in a 1/4th mile.. of course everyone knows the vette was always faster on paper.. Just goes to show that was a very uneducated post..

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

WTF? Show me proof. Please. Uneducated? What did you think I did before I even posted. Ill be waiting for your proof.

watman02

BTW their was no 1983 vette

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

I'm not trying to flame anyone but the guy on this post has done enough research to come to a general concensus.

http://www.carforums.net/showthread.php?t=10251

There is no listing for a 1984 Z28 but if you look at the '83 Z28, it looks a shade faster than the 1984 Crossfire Vette. Hard to imagine that the 1985
Z28 would have gotten slower than the '84.

RobSS1113

BINGO !!!!! We have a Winner, tell him what hes won Bob !

That is a must know, NO corvettes were made in 1983, "hints" why i said the 83 4cyl camaro was faster than the 83 corvette. come on guys

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

No kidding. Just looked it up. However, my source must make me "uneducated". lol. I hae never even drove a vett let alone owned one. How ever we all know that their is no vett that would get beat by a camaro in stock form. GM does do some dumb stuff ( haulting the camaro ), but making a camaro faster then a vett is not one of them.

89RsPower!

Exactly, despite factory ratings and factory quarter mile times in real life the H.O. was actually slightly faster in the quarter mile the the cfi vette. By todays standards both were dogs. The combonation of the 5 speed and 373 gears behind the little 305 was the maros saving grace. On paper corvette was ALWAYS the biggest best and fastest according to GM literature. Many cars over the years were severly underrated power wise from the factory as to not outdue that years model vette.

Sorry for gettin so far off topic, to the OP depending on your mechanical ability I'd say get it. If the body is solid that's a good price. I'd probably plan on at least swapping in a new engine as it sound like that "lt1" is actually an old worn out LB9. Even if you get disgusted with the car and decide not to finish it you will be able to part it out for more then u paid for it

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

And..... Back on topic!

jamesh23

supposedly he is getting the title in his name tomorrow/monday. I will buy it tuesday if he gets the title, he doesnt wanna bother fixing it himself cuz he said he would have to put out the engine to replace the head gaskets, you dont have to do that do you?

Ca[maro]88

iTrader: (2)

to change head gaskets? no. you can pull the intake and the heads off with the engine in the car though. youll have to clean up the top of the engine and your heads really well before you replace the gasket so the gaskets seal right. also make sure you get the right torque specs on the heads and intake (GET A HAYNES MANUAL!!!) its really only about a 2 hour job if you know what your doing.

jamesh23

im going to get a haynes manual when i get the car, why would i buy the manual if im not gonna get the car?

jamesh23

is this about right for changing the head gaskets? i know its missing detail but generally does this sum it up?

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you..._5.0_automatic

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Ya that's pretty much it. Some people say to run the car for around 1-500 miles Then re-tq the head bolts. I have never done it, & the only cars I have ever done head work on where sold right after. Someone else might know for sure. If you get new rubber valve cover gasket's then they can be reused after the re-tq.

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

thats what your suppose to do. what I do is go 5# over spec and im done.
also any time ive torqued to spec then went 500 miles stop and go and highway and then went to re torque the head bolts were fine.
if you want to do it by the book then go 500 miles then re torque.
or do it right the first time and you should be fine.

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

hope that made scene

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Ya it did. I would also have faith that 5 pounds over would be good. I'm a little younger so while on the subject. What was the deal with the old timers that had the tops cut out of a spare set of valve covers? I know it had to be something to do with oil splash, but while doing what?

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Hey shooter. I just took a look @ the spects on your car. I have the same year RS. How much quicker was your car after the 3.73 auburn posi swap? I was thinking about doing this too. Any advice on things needed other then the gear set, ease of installation ect? Also how does it do on the hwy now with the taller gears? I dont care about MPG since I never drive it anyways, but its only cause its so slow lol. May drive her more if she had some ***** though (200 miles in 3 years).

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

ok first time im being tied into being a old timer "38"
but what you are talking about is
when you cut out the top of the valve cover the right way most if not all of the oil goes into the head instead of on your exhaust. I actually have valve covers "cut for big and small block" engines with just 1 inch holes to get to the rocker nuts with these covers you dont need to ust the "oil clips" to divert the oil.
you just adjust them and put on the new covers and go

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

you must have me confused with some one else my car as far as i know is stock. only have had the car for 1 year and the ony things i have done to it is
moog inner and outer tie rods
moog ball joints
energy suspension bushings
and moog springs
but im looking at a sphon front k member and a arms
and a Dynamic EFI ecu witch I just ordered

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Ha. Lol. Sorry. Well Im not so sure that I am doing the adjustment the right way then. I just take the V-covers off, use a feeler gauge, & put the covers back on. In what other way are they needed then? I just did the same in my 74 dodge van. Im 28.

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Ya your right. Sorry. Took another look. It was the guy on your friends list. Never looked at a profile from here before. I will ask him.

50bmgshooter

iTrader: (4)

ok to adjust your valves you need to do this.
with the motor off
take all lash out of all the rockers
then start the motor
now find the rockers that are clarering tighten untill they stop
now with no valve train noise
loosen one valve at a time until it starts to clatter then tighten 1/2 turn
do this while the motor is running for all 16 valves but pay attention if the motor starts to run real ruff after one of the valves is adjusted then you have a lifter that is stuck in the up or down position
if this happens then do what i did and hope for the best
adjust the valves until there is no clatering coming out of them, put on valve covers and add 1 quart of tranny fluid run for 300 miles change oil and then try to adjust you valves again
this is what I am doing right now

89RsPower!

Keep in mind the guy you are buying this car from doesn't even know what engine is in it. Now ask yourself this, do you seriously trust him diagnosing a head gasket(s) failure(s)? When you went and looked at this car did you check the oil? If so what color was it? Was there coolant mixed in with it? If it actually does have 2 blown head gaskets chances are there is coolant in the oil. If that is the case and it was ran with coolant in the crank case for any appreciable amount of time it may very well need a rebuild due to bearing wear. Coolant is a very poor lubricant. As was said before, if you are willing to take on a project car and the body is in good shape, $500 IS a good price. In a case like this plan for the worst and hope for the best. Plan on putting a new engine in it or rebuilding the existing engine. If you're lucky it won't come down to that. Ask the seller how he determined that it needs head gaskets. The most common reason head gaskets fail is due to overheating. If the car was overheated and it has coolant in the oil the possbilities are as follows intake gaskets, head gasket(s), cracked block, cracked head(s), etc. If there is coolant in the oil your best bet would be the pull the engine and tear it down and inspect it carefully for damage and go from there. It would probably be easiest to simply swap in a different engine, either one from a junkyard if you are on a budget or a reman/crate engine.
If you do buy this car plan on keeping your current car as a daily driver while you fix/rebuild this one. Aside from the engine problems take a good look at the body, specifically at the floor pan and underside of the car. Check for rust and rot in all the usual areas.

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

Good luck on it, & thanks for the info.

jamesh23

he said it needs a head gasket cuz it overheats but i checked the oil and it was good and dark. so idk, nd he said he's pretty sure, maybe its just a new radiator or a water pump? i hope

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

The most common reason these cars overheat is the fan(s) not coming on. This is usually because of a bad relay (Located next to the battery on the core support) The "Fix" is usually to wire in a switch for the fan(S). This isnt the right way to do it, but the more of these cars you see, the more often you will see this done. Ask the owner if the car has this "Modification". Next is the thermostat and then the radiator. None of these parts are really that expensive and all are available at your local checker or autozone. Honestly, have someone do a compression test on each cylander then a cooling system pressure test. You can most likely talk the guys at autozone or checker into doing the cooling system pressure test for you. (They rent this tool) Both of these tests will help you rule out head gaskets.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!

drknow90rs_ss@y

iTrader: (3)

[quote=50bmgshooter;4054214]ok first time im being tied into being a old timer "38"

I hope that dosent make me old at 36.... Where exactly is the "Cut-off" between young and old-timer?
...Please tell me it's at 37.....
LOL

STRIKER911

iTrader: (1)

[quote=drknow90rs_ss@y;4054786]Ya lol. Might be. Just in case, you might want to live it up. Go hit on a hott lil 18 year old. I did just that. Now im married to her. I waited for 28 years to get married, & it is true what they say. Sex almost all, but stops. Shes still dam good to look at, while most the girls I knew have all got fat, & still hold out lol.

89RsPower!

If the car is simply getting too hot, and not actually overheating (coolant boiling over, steam everywhere, etc.) It's most likely a stuck thermostat, or the fan(s) arn't coming on for one reason or another. Head gaskets are normally the end result of overheating, not normally the cause. If the oil looks clean and you didn't find anything in the cylinders when you pulled the plugs why not try starting it and see how it runs?