Originally Posted by RED_DRAGON_85

Just curious but why does he need this oil?

Originally Posted by 84 z28

Use VRI racing oil and you should be set. When I put my lunati cam in I called them and asked what they recommed and they said use VR1.

Originally Posted by elano

VR1 RACE -20W-50 - 1040/840
VR1 RACE -10W-40 - 1160/912

As you can see there is not enough zddp in ZR1 to break in a flat tappet cam. That is unless you want to use an oil additive to increase it.

An engine with a flat tappet cam NEEDS between 1200-1400 and VR1 falls short. The second number is phospherus which is ok to be a little lower ~1100.

Use:
CHEVRON DELO LE CJ 15W-40 - 1360/1115(CONVEN OIL)
unless you know what is in the oil you are using.




----------
In fact, here is what you need to know out of that thread:

1200ppm-1400ppm ZDDP/ Zn & P is where we need to be for minimum protection when running an aftermarket high perf flat tappet hyd or solid perf cam with elevated spring rates which is what many of us are running in our SBC/BBC motors. If your running a wild flat tappet cam cam with very high spring rates you should run closer to or above the 1400ppm end of the scale for Zinc IMHO.

Scott
==================================================

(KEY=Zn-ppm/P-ppm)

VALVOLINE NSL RACE(not VR1) -20W-50 - 1250/1000(ALL 4 VALVOLINE OILS LISTED HERE ARE CONVENTIONAL)

" " NSL RACE -10W-30 - 1000/750

" " VR1 RACE -20W-50 - 1040/840

" " VR1 RACE -10W-40 - 1160/912

BRAD PENN RACE - 20W-50 - 770/600 (SYN BLEND)

PENNZOIL GT 25W-50 RACING OIL - 1676/1483 (CONVEN OIL)

CASTROL SYNTEC TRUCK & 4X4 15W-40 - 1240/990(SYN BELND)

CHEVRON DELO LE CJ 15W-40 - 1360/1115(CONVEN OIL)

SHELL ROTEALLA 30WT SINGLE GRADE -1215/1050 (CONVEN OIL)

LUBRIPLATE GPO H/D 15W-40 - 1165/920 (CONVEN OIL)

ROYAL PURPLE 5W30 XPR Racing Oil - 1421/1339 (FULL SYN/TESTED BY FELLOW T/C'R)

Originally Posted by 84 z28

You shouldnt cut and paste old info from other websites. The info on the VR1 oil is wrong and who knows about the other stuff. The Valvoline website says different I can post the link if you need me too.

Originally Posted by 84 z28

What some guy says he did and what the product actually is are 2 different things. The government and other places check to make sure all these oils are up to snuff thats why they get labeled accordingly. Just cause some t@rd on chevelles.com says something dosent mean its true its all hear say off the internet.

Originally Posted by Mark A 91Formula

Just cause some t@rd from the trustworthy government rubber stamps something doesn't mean it's true either.

Originally Posted by Saigon_Bob

rotella will suffice. you just need oil with ZPPD aka the Zinc high pressure additive.

race oils have it and diesel oil has it. regular oils dont.

Originally Posted by elano

I know you love your vr1 and it's prob very good stuff. I'm not trying to argue with you over this. That "t@rd" aka Scott who tested the oils has NOTHING to gain from lying on tha intraweb. He wants the best oil for his car and is generous enough to share his findings with the rest of the online community. I doubt the government cares about our out-dated flat-tappet cams either. Did you even read any of the post in that thread?

Originally Posted by 84 z28

Yes I read your home boys write up or copy and paste whatever you wanna call it. I will actually copy and paste this just for you

#26
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Re: Running Diesel Oil Then You Must Read This
Harris,about 6 months ago i did post a list of accdeptable oils but things are constantly changing these days .

Brad Penn racing 10w-30 or 20w-50 or Valvoline 20w-50 R1 racing oil that says NSL/NOT STEEET LEAGAL and also reffereneces ZDDP/zinc on the label are a good choice (for now) if you dont want to run the diesel oil.

Scott


Gotta love VR1 oil

Originally Posted by elano

If you actually read my copy and paste or even the one you just posted, it says that Valvoline NSL 20w50 (which is what is being talked about in your post) is on the list for good oil since it has over 1200zinc. That is not regular VR1, that is Valvoline NSL race and only the 20w50 grade. The regular valvoline VR1 oils 20w50 and 10w40 are just shy of the 1200 mark needed for our cams. BTW NSL stands for "not street legal" and I dunno about you but I dont want to run 20w50 in my car.

Here is another post off that site from the day before your copy and paste, May 25th:

"I had the Valvoline NSL & VR1 oils tested and the NSL racing 20w-50 just squeeked in at approx 1250 ppm ZN & 1100ppm P but the v1 was just under 1200ppm for Zn."

This compliments your post. Notice that NSL and VR1 are different oils and only the 20w50 NSL has enough zddp, not the VR1 20w50.

This "t@ard" says however that you should be okay running your VR1 10w30 as long as you add some oil additive such as GM EOS:

"Rick,since you dont state if its for cam breakin or ongoing use post cam/lfter breakin i would suggest valvoline's NSL or Vr1 10w-30 both conventional race oils since you say you want to run 10w-30 along with a full pint of gm eos."

Notice, " with a full pint of gm eos"

He goes on to say that:

"Then post cam/lfter breakin i would use 1/2 pint eos with the above mentioned oils for ongoing flat tappet cam/lifter protection.

But there are on ther conventiontional oils that like chevron deo 15w-40 that have enough ZDDP to properly prtect your cam/lfters without the additional 1/2 pint eos . But if you want to run a 1/2 of EOS for piece of mind esp if your running a fairly hot flat tappet cam with hi spring rates thats fine too.

But if your going to use just any genaric over the counter 10-30 SM/SL rated oil with a flat tappet cam you need to run a full pint of eos becasue the zddp lvl is only approx 800-850ppm in thoses lighter fuel conserving grades of oil when it needs to be approx 1200ppm-1400ppm zddp for safe flat tappet cam protection."

Which supports all my previous posts on why I choose to run delo 400 15w40. Seems legit to me. VR1 is fine to break in a cam or run post break in as long as you use an additive to ensure protection.

Originally Posted by 84 z28

Sounds like your trying to convinence yourself about your facts. You and your boyfriends facts are wrong bottom line. The manufacturer has the facts right on it website. If you want to continue to go by hear say go for it. I am done worrying about this copy and paste cr@p from you. When you get some legit facts from are real place other than team chevelles cut and paste then PM me anytime.

Originally Posted by ljnowell

As far as getting into zinc and ppm and all that stuff, I can say this: I have broken in countless engines in the past with nothing but off the shelf valvoline conventional oil.

Originally Posted by Air_Adam

Ya, I was gonna warn you about this can-o-worms in my first post lol

Is the engine built? Too late to change to a roller setup? It would be worth it IMO... alot less issues to deal with as far as oil and wear goes.

Originally Posted by five7kid

Things changed with the introduction of GF-4 oils. Reduced ZDDP for the protection of sensitive emissions equipment have had a negative effect on older engines with flat tappet cams. Since the newer engines with the sensitive emissions equipment have roller lifters, it doesn't affect them.

It is something to be aware of if you are running a flat tappet cam, but it doesn't warrant the playground "Oh yeah?" stuff.

Originally Posted by 84 camaro z28

Also with that change from tappet to roller there was a price jump from 250 to like 700 so I think Ill stick with the tappet. All I got to say is parts are changeable.

Originally Posted by ljnowell

I know what you are saying, and am familiar with the changes in oil. I was just pointing out that many people still break in engines without any additive at all and do not experience cam failure. I found it humorous that a simple question, with a simple answer of use xxx additive could degenerate so quickly.

Originally Posted by 84 camaro z28

Alright thanks. I probably hit up the parts store today and try to order some rotella, Whats the eos stand for though?

Originally Posted by elano

No problem. EOS sthads for Engine Oil Suppliment. It's made by GM but good luck getting it. I went to 3 different dealerships a few months ago and nobody had it in stock. You CAN get it online though. Basically, the crane lube, lucas lube, and eos are the best to use when breaking it in.

Originally Posted by 84 camaro z28

Well i just picked up 12 q of it about 5 mins ago, I mean i got rotella 30 and a bottle of crane additive to add zinc so does this sound right for the brake in?