90 IROC won't start
#1
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
90 IROC won't start
Hey guys,
I have a 90 IROC that won't start. Some details are
- it has 75,000 miles on it, it is a 5-speed 5.7
- it read 48 PSI fuel at the rail
- it is reading no codes other than 12 (which should be normal)
- it was running perfectly when I parked it a week ago
- it usually starts first time even when cold this time it just cranks and cranks and cranks...
- I checked the ignition module it tests ok, tried another spare module and no difference, won't start
- checked wires, cap and rotor all appear to be normal, unchanged
- tried another coil but no difference, won't start
- tried a new relay on the firewall but no effect
- checked fuses and found none indicating any problems
- tried pulling ignition #1 and left it by the header to see if spark jumped when cranking but saw nothing (not a very good test I might add)
The car has never had this kind of problem before.
Because there are no codes I am thinking something unusual has happened to a function whose failure mode is not picked up by the ECM.
Distributor?
ECM itself?
I am stumped and am facing the humiliation of having to be towed to the shop
Suggested are welcome, anyone have any troubleshooting methods?
thx
I have a 90 IROC that won't start. Some details are
- it has 75,000 miles on it, it is a 5-speed 5.7
- it read 48 PSI fuel at the rail
- it is reading no codes other than 12 (which should be normal)
- it was running perfectly when I parked it a week ago
- it usually starts first time even when cold this time it just cranks and cranks and cranks...
- I checked the ignition module it tests ok, tried another spare module and no difference, won't start
- checked wires, cap and rotor all appear to be normal, unchanged
- tried another coil but no difference, won't start
- tried a new relay on the firewall but no effect
- checked fuses and found none indicating any problems
- tried pulling ignition #1 and left it by the header to see if spark jumped when cranking but saw nothing (not a very good test I might add)
The car has never had this kind of problem before.
Because there are no codes I am thinking something unusual has happened to a function whose failure mode is not picked up by the ECM.
Distributor?
ECM itself?
I am stumped and am facing the humiliation of having to be towed to the shop
Suggested are welcome, anyone have any troubleshooting methods?
thx
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,141
Likes: 2
From: MA
Car: '87 IROC/'68 SS
Engine: 5.7L/350
Transmission: 700R4/Muncie 4-spd
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9 bolt / 3.31 12 bolt
Re: 90 IROC won't start
It's important to know whether you have spark or not, I'll assume not for now.
Does the tach move when it's cranking?
Does it run with the EST connector disconnected?
Try disconnecting the 4 terminal dist connector, see if you get spark
Have a volt meter or test light? Disconnect the two terminal connector and see if they both have at least 10V with key on.
You may have a bad pickup coil.
Does the tach move when it's cranking?
Does it run with the EST connector disconnected?
Try disconnecting the 4 terminal dist connector, see if you get spark
Have a volt meter or test light? Disconnect the two terminal connector and see if they both have at least 10V with key on.
You may have a bad pickup coil.
#5
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 2
From: British Columbia
Car: 90 IROC 5.7 hardtop
Engine: L98
Transmission: T5 swap
Axle/Gears: Yup -- they still work
Re: 90 IROC won't start
problem solved.
$8.03 for a secondary coil/reluctor -- the thing that is inside my small HEI cap.
Easy fix. Lotsa work figuring out what...
Anyway got a new cap and rotor and reluctor thingy and the car runs great again.
$8.03 for a secondary coil/reluctor -- the thing that is inside my small HEI cap.
Easy fix. Lotsa work figuring out what...
Anyway got a new cap and rotor and reluctor thingy and the car runs great again.
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