Alright, I have searched the boards and i think i know my answer but would just like conformation on it. I have a 87 305 TPI, when i first got it is was running so rich it was dumping fuel in the oil and smoking like crazy, almost as if the pump was at full volume and the TPI was taking it. It also ran like complete crap. long story short, I was working on it last night without the MAF on it just thought i would start it up for ***** and giggles to see how it would run. Well i was quite shocked to hear it run like it was new. Can a bad MAF really cause it to dump fuel like that?? my plan is to replace the MAF and the MAF relays. the TPS checks out. Can it really be that simple?

 

My original engine was a 305 TPI with Maf. With some understanding of the system. I know the MAF meters the incoming air into the engine and has multiple tables in the ECM for adjusting the VE. If it not working right it would account for alot of excess fuel in your car. I don't remember if it ran once it was disconnected though. I have since switched to MAP to completely remove MAF from the system. There are only relays I believe for your MAF system. One is a power relay and the other should be a burn off Relay that is used to super heat the wires during startup. These can be easily checked using a multimeter setup on OHMS and a 12v power source.

 

ibmtech, tell us about the miniram...

 

There have been alot of studies about the TPI systems on cars. Basically there are three systems out that alot of people use, the (Mini-ram or the Stealth-Ram or Super-Ram) of course there are others like Holley, DFI, Mega-Squirt etc.. The TPI system has longer tube runners which take the air longer to travel into the cylinders. The upside of TPI is you have tons of torque. The main problem with TPI systems even though they have a butt load of torque, they fall flat on their face at higher RPMS which is roughly 4500 rpms.. The other intake manifolds like the mini-ram etc.. etc.. not only have the low end torque but top end power but allow for a wider spectrum of power through-out the entire system through 6500 rpms..

 

does it use the stock mass air flow sensor because its more forgiving to mods or have you reprogrammed the ecm chip?

 

My original engine and original modified engine used the MAF sensor. Since I put a supercharger on, I have since repinned the ECM, so I switched to a map sensor. Maf Sensors can only handle so many grams of air moving through them before they become inaccurate in measuring the air flow.
Yes, I had to also change the ECM from a 1227165 to a 1227730 so I could run the MAP which also meant buying an AUJP e-prom and doing a 100% pin swap. Since then I have bought a 1227749 Turbo ECM out of GMC Cyclone and have run the $58 mask in the prom. I will be switching to a $59 mask within the next few weeks as it so much easier to use with the Autoprom and RT Tuner Pro setup. I do burn my own chips now which make it alot easier to add fuel, spark etc etc.

 

The burn off relay burns the maf off after the car starts not during or after start up, but I was going to ask you this and see what you think:

I'm also getting a code, 33, 34, and 36 I've checked all the terminals and connections and grounds are clean. And since I'm going to school to become a automotive technician, I used the diagnoses process from ALL DATA for code 33, and I'm doing code 34 tomorrow after work, and after the test for code 33, it says it may be a faulty MAF, but until I took the car apart, it was fine, and the MAF sat in my basement for 5 years, until last weekend, so I don't think its the maf. I'm also going to finish the diagnoses work for code 36. So if I may ask, What do you think it might be?

The Maf burn off relay's working, because after I shut the car off, the burn off relay, burns up the MAF wire, so its working. I don't think having 1.6 roller rockers or advanced cam should be affecting it though.

 

Well heres the deal, this is funny, it was actually nothing wrong, lol.

I first did the normal method of clearing codes on any OBD I GM vehicle. Pull the ECM fuse out for 10 seconds, put it back in, and your good to go. So I did that like 4 or 5 times, put the fuse back in, and checked the codes, and still codes 33, 34 and 35.

Then I pulled the fuse out as All Data said for 5 minutes, tried that a few times; still same thing, 33, 34, 35 codes.

Then I went ahead and did the older, slightly more pain in the *** method, but no big deal, pulled the negative battery cable for about 12 seconds, put it back on, checked the codes, GONE! Then ran the motor, a few times checked codes again, and GONE!

I mean before I was setting up my New CAI I need since the new radiator is bigger than the stock, plastic core junkers, that break. My 87 irocs and my formula both broke the same way, so after the have 125K on them, the plastic turns to shi* and cracks. So I bought a summit universal fit one, and its larger than the factory one, which is good anyway, because this motors making more power now, and I'm fabbing up my upper radiator hold down, and the two attaching points for the fans to bolt to. So anyway, I'm just finishing that up, and have the first half of my CAI done, I just have to cut one more piece of 3" tubing, I'll cut in my machine class, because the band saw does a much nicer cut than a hack saw and straighter than a saw zahl. So I'll post pics of that in a few days.

 

Sounds like you are on the right track. I drove mine for the 1st time last night again. I was able to use the Autoprom with Tunerpro and datalog with the 7749 ECM and the $59 mask. It ramps up very quickly on with VE curves. I am sure that this is because of the miniram. Will post results in the near future.