1985 IROC TPI
#1
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From: Heart of Dixie
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 inch 342
1985 IROC TPI
Im looking at a 1985 IROC rolling no engine or trans. It is a tune port car. I was wondering if a 85 is a mass air car and if a 383 stoker with a big cam would run ok with a TPI set up?
#2
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From: Tampa Bay, FL
Car: 85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: 1985 IROC TPI
yes 85 is MAF
since it has no engine or trans, I am assuming the induction system is gone as well? is the wiring harness and ECM intact?
Depends on how big a cam and what your planned power band is. TPI is known for low RPM torqu and falling on its face above 4500-5000 RPM. So if you are looking to make power at higher RPMs than that, you may want to go with a different induction system. Hop on over to the engine swap forum and do some sniffing
since it has no engine or trans, I am assuming the induction system is gone as well? is the wiring harness and ECM intact?
Depends on how big a cam and what your planned power band is. TPI is known for low RPM torqu and falling on its face above 4500-5000 RPM. So if you are looking to make power at higher RPMs than that, you may want to go with a different induction system. Hop on over to the engine swap forum and do some sniffing
#4
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iTrader: (2)
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 465
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From: Heart of Dixie
Car: 1987 Camaro Sport Coupe
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 inch 342
Re: 1985 IROC TPI
Thanks for the help. I have the intake, wiring, and computer. I told the guy I did not want the 305 so he is going to keep it. A buddy of mine has the car and knows the history for the last 15 years. I realy dont want a IROC. I want a plain camaro or firebird. like the one I had. sometimes you are better off starting with the best car you can find. I didnot want to hack up a factory TPI car changing it over to a carb.
#5
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,556
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: 1985 IROC TPI
It takes ALOT of modding to get a TPI to support a 383 properly. Porbably be cheaper, not to mention better and easier, to use some other FI manifold, such as the HSR or MR.
85 used a MAF, but also was a one-year-only ECM. It's MUCH slower and otherwise less capable than later ones. I don't know the details of what changes yo'd have to make in pinning and such, but I would suggest finding some other ECM for it. 86-up MAF would be MUCH better.
Be aware, if you're not already, that the factory MAF is limited to metering only up to 255 g/sec of air. The MAF flows more than that, but can't meter it. It's only 8 bits, so the possible values of air flow are from 0 to 255 g/sec in 1 g steps. 255 g/sec is something around 375 CFM. Consequently MAF systems tend to hav eissues when used on large CID motors.
I agree though, best to keep a car FI if possible, rather than hack it up. For operating economy if nothing else. The "cheepness" up front goes away IN A HURRY when your gas bill is $100 a week instead of $50 a week, or whatever. The more you drive hte car, the more it argues in favor of FI, and spoending what it takes to get it right. It's the lowest cost alternative in the long (and even the not-so-long) run.
85 used a MAF, but also was a one-year-only ECM. It's MUCH slower and otherwise less capable than later ones. I don't know the details of what changes yo'd have to make in pinning and such, but I would suggest finding some other ECM for it. 86-up MAF would be MUCH better.
Be aware, if you're not already, that the factory MAF is limited to metering only up to 255 g/sec of air. The MAF flows more than that, but can't meter it. It's only 8 bits, so the possible values of air flow are from 0 to 255 g/sec in 1 g steps. 255 g/sec is something around 375 CFM. Consequently MAF systems tend to hav eissues when used on large CID motors.
I agree though, best to keep a car FI if possible, rather than hack it up. For operating economy if nothing else. The "cheepness" up front goes away IN A HURRY when your gas bill is $100 a week instead of $50 a week, or whatever. The more you drive hte car, the more it argues in favor of FI, and spoending what it takes to get it right. It's the lowest cost alternative in the long (and even the not-so-long) run.
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