Some of you may remember my other thread where the $500+shipping set of Vortec heads I bought from Daniel Anderson of Oviedo, FL, otherwise known as Dans87GTA turned out to be junk. He's been ignoring me for a month now, so I can only assume the original intention was to rip me off to begin with.

Back to the topic at hand, the car ran for somewhere between 30 and 60 seconds or so. Not long.. maybe a minute and a half, things move really quickly when you're in the moment, but when we noticed the constant steam and water out the exhaust wasn't stopping we killed it right away.

So here's my question, we immediately got it up to the appropriate RPM range and I had some Comp Cams break-in additive in the oil and it was all good to go...

But since we had to abort and shut it down, do you guys think that I should go ahead and put a new cam in it? I mean cams aren't cheap,but they're cheaper than wiping a lobe and the repercussions of that. So will the cam likely be fine, or is it one of those things where paying an extra $200 for a new cam and lifter set would be a good idea? It's a lot of work, but... better than teh alternative.

Since I had to pull the heads off, I am going to have to go through and put the valvetrain back together too so that means resetting the valve lash and so forth. I had someone recommend to get some cam assembly lube and put it on the lifters before I turned the motor. Is that a good idea?

Either way, I'm just worried about wiping a cam and toasting the fresh bearings and having to pul lthe motor out. I was told I should be fine since the cam didn't get hot, but I've got a lot of money on the line and I want to pry into the more experienced minds around here.

But it didnt run for long, not long enough to get hot, and it never idled. So hopefully it should be okay.

 

Make sure the lifters go back onto the same lobes coating them with some cam lube and run it up again.

I've seen worse. People firing the engine up, play with the timing or mixture screws then do a break in. I doubt you'll notice any problems.

Why was there water coming out the exhaust?

 

A short explanation in case everyone else wants to know why I'm so angry that I'm publicly outing the guy (not my style at all), and the reason I had to abort the initial run of this motor.


Ported through to water jacket, failed weld.


Different cylinder, same story


Different cylinder again, same story. Notice the rust.

I was never told about these when I bought the heads, should have noticed them, but you make mistakes from time to time. I think this is pretty relevant information to disclose to someone when you're trying to sell a seto f cylinder heads for $600.





Nasty.

 

You did well by putting the lube on the lobes and starting the break-in.

The main point is that you got the engine up to RPM and began the process.
Don't worry too much, you're just a little paranoid from the last experience
which is understandable.

Just repeat the break-in when you rebuild the new setup.

Yes. You don't want to start the lifters on the lobe dry. As mentioned
above, since you've already used the cam, it is critical that you put the
same lifters back in their respective bores for best results.

 

I would imagine you'd be fine, change the oil/filter and put some cam lube back on. Don't forget the GM EOS can for those solid lifters as well I am not doing another solid lifter cam again, only roller for me from now on.

 

The GM EOS is apparently as easy to find as an invisible unicorn, so I'll have to settle (Again) for the Comp Break in Lube. IT's like $15 a bottle... so it better work!

I woudlnt dare break it in without some suitable additive in it, but the Comp stuff should do what I need it to do. I'm just wondering if I should buy several bottles of it for future oil changes... paranoia or perhaps a smart move?

 

You worry too much. Don't both pulling the cam. Just pull each lifter and recoat just the bottom of it with some Cam break in paste ( moly dysulfide grease).
Do not mix up the lifters.
Get a bootle of GM EOS Now called "engine assembly lube" from a GM dealer and a bootle of MR. Moly Lube. Mix the two together with 1 quart of your favourite engine oil and dump that whole thing in to the lifter valley over the cam. Now add a few more quarts of oil to bring the oil level in the oil pan up to full on the dip stick.
Pre fill a new oil filter and reprime the oil system.
Fire it up and break 'er in.
Change the oil and filter after about a good week or two of driving. Add another bottle of GM EOS on every oil change.

http://www.mrmoly.com/

Don't forget to prelube the rocker arms etc with the mix of oil and additives.

 

My local machine shop, and every GM dealer (parts desk) have bottles of GM EOS. I just ask for EOS. White plastic bottle, 500ml or so, $8.
If in doubt, order a case from a nearby dealership. You'll use them eventually.

I thought you were using a hydraulic cam, not a solid?
Either way, i'd just recoat the lifters as mentioned.

What are you doing with those Vortec heads?

 

I never said anything about solid lifters, they're just flat tappet lifters. THey're hydraulic.

I just stood the heads up in a forgotten corner of the garage. I'll probably give em away for scrap metal or something.

 

That's what I was commenting on. I didn't think you had a solid though.

Hmm.... next time you're up in Calgary for the stampede you should bring me those heads I've got some good industrial epoxy and some braze and they should be good as new.

 

I wouldn't worry about the cam, I would change the oil and filter. Put moly lube on each lifter. Comp Cams said to use Shell Rotella oil and a bottle of their cam lube. I use STP oil treatment. STP rep told me its full of zinc and will work great for flat tappet cams.

 

Interestign on the STP.

Im under the impression that recently even Shell Rotella doesnt have all those good additives in it anymore! This just happened recently, like during the past 6 months/year I think, so from what I know we're pretty much dependent on the cam/additive companies these days.

 

Yes starting in 2007 they started lowering the zinc levels in all diesel oils also. It sill has more that standard motor oils. You can buy racing oil that has all the goods in it, but it cost alot more. I say throw a can of STP in and let it rip. EOS is available right now but there have beeen talk about it going away.