VonKaiser

I've had a couple of 3rd gen 305 owners ask me how I was able to get so many miles out of my Camaro's 305. This is what I told them. Please feel free to correct and or add any information. They both have over 140,000 miles on their 3d gens but less than 200,000. Here's a copy of the message I sent them.

That's just the general things I've done that has in my opinion increased the life of my 3rd gen. Comments and suggestions are encouraged.

ljnowell

That looks like an average lifespan. although, i probably wouldnt do the pcv as often, and i wouldnt change any part until its done. Like egr, FP, etc.

Toehead

I know somebody that has 340,000 on the original engine and trans on their IROC. These are actually really long-lived engines if properly cared for.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Use a quality synthetic and oil filter, change them once a year or 25,000 (but only if the oil manufacturer says you can go that long). Even less deposit build-up, and a lot less wear.

Weekly is a good idea.

Flush the cooling system every one-two years. Use antifreeze, or at least rust inhibitor if you live in a climate that never gets below freezing. When you do the flush, remove the radiator and wash out the fins. Do the AC condenser (you can leave it in the car) at the same time.

A waste of $3. Use synthetic oil from the get-go and never worry about it.

I'd do that yearly.

K&N is an expensive way to let dirt into your engine. Either use a quality paper element changed yearly, or even better, an AMSOIL microfiber element.

I don't know of a breather tube that goes from the valve cover to the intake pan. But, there should be, generally speaking, an air inlet that allows the "positive crankcase ventilation", aka "PCV", system to work. It needs clean air, which is provided by your non-K&N air filter element. If you've maintained your engine regularly, blow-by won't be a problem.

You forgot rotor.

Don't use cheap belts. They're very expensive when they break at inopportune times.

Or whenever they show signs of age such as cracks or hardening. Check them whenever you're doing other maintenance.

If you maintain it as suggested above, you won't have to change it.

I can't imagine doing that. The chances of failure increase with every rebuilt you get.

I wouldn't wait that long. 50k or 3 years, perhaps.

Wait until it starts showing signs of getting weak.

I agree with using the lowest octane, but higher octane fuel will not affect your cat in any way, shape, or form.

Like many other things, I'd want a quantifiable reason to go through that expense.

See comment to "Change your EGR valve" above.

Not necessary if you use a quality fuel additive regularly.

Wait, you said higher octane ruins the cat? Which is it? If you use a quality fuel additive regularly (doesn't have to be an "octane booster"), and do your regular tune-up just before an emissions test, you'll be fine.

Keeping the fuel level up is good for two things: 1) Reducing the exchange of potentially moist air, which increases moisture condensation; 2) keeping the pump from running dry and burning out. I'd need a very good reason to go through the expense of a gas tank replacement. Using a quality fuel additive regularly will keep it clean and rust-free.

VonKaiser

I was told by 2 seperate master mechanics w/30+ years of experience that an engine with high mileage (120k+) using regular oil then switching to sythetic oil is a waste.

Weekly is a good idea, but most people I know around here drive around 400-500 miles a week.

I like to flush it more regularly--as in once every 6-8 months.

I don't see it as a waste, you should see how dirty and burnt out mine is every time I change it. But, thats due to the weak valve seals and bad ring(s) most likely.

Yearly is good, however as long as its checked periodically I don't see the reason it shouldn't be checked more or less often. Personal preference I guess.

Which K&N are you referring? I'm using the OEM replacement variety--not the performance kind.

Show me a picture of a 305 engine bay and I can point out what I'm talking about.

Yes I did, whoops. I included this on the list when I talked to them.

I don't, but some do. I was simply giving them advice based upon the info I got. They are cheap part buyers so I recommended changing the belt more often.

This is true, should be common sense.

Perhaps, I still recommend changing it more often than people think.

I've known plenty of 3rd gen owners who after 180,000 miles they've gone through 2-4 alternators. I mainly stated this for Preventive maintenance.

What I stated worked for me, everyone's going to have a different experience with these just simply because of the fuel they're using and how "clean" it is.

Preventive maintenance strikes again.

I was under the impression that using an octane higher than recommended would damage the emissions system(s) including the car. I'll have to research this further.

Preventive maintenance strikes again.

Take a guess. Preventive maintenance.

For the fuel system maybe, but I strongly advise using Seafoam to clean out the vaccum lines. I've personally seen the benefits of it in my own car.

Using 1 or 2 tanks of higher octane per year is not enough to cause any oddities. Using it every tank will. Plus, its always a good idea to use plenty of as you put it "quality" fuel additives often.

This is correct. I didn't mention this aspect to them, I will now. Thanks.

A good reason? Why not change it? It can only help even if it is a little bit. Every little bit helps, especially when preventive maintenance is done. I'd rather solve the problem before it happens. Isn't that not a good thing?

Thanks for the input.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I have switched many 100k+ mile vehicles over to synthetic, including the originally-swapped in 305 in my Camaro (123k). If it has had regular maintenance, it will pay off. As with most higher mileage engines, oil seals may need attention, but they'll need that whether or not you switch to synthetic. The 301k mile 305 that I just took out of Berlinetta #2, which reportedly has never been rebuilt (although I can see the intake manifold has been off), I probably wouldn't switch over. But, it'll never run again in anything I own, anyway.

Doesn't matter what type of K&N air filter. The oiled gauze media lets in a bunch of small dirt that will sand your cylinders and contaminate your oil. They may be fine for a racing engine that gets rebuilt every race (I still wouldn't use one), bad news for an engine you want to last.

What I would consider higher-dollar things like starter, alternator, radiator, and fuel tank, I wouldn't change as "preventative maintenance". If you're planning a 4000 mile road trip and the alternator is 12 years old, that might be a different matter, but a "normal" close-to-home car, nah, ain't worth it. I know alternators fail, but I've seen rebuilt alternators fail sooner than original alternators, so that to me isn't "preventative maintenance". Fix it when it needs it. Replacing a fuel tank "just because" is a good way to create unintended consequences - do it only if needed. If you're replacing a weak fuel pump and see problems in the tank, again, that's a different matter. As for starters, back to Berlinetta #2; before I pulled the engine, I drove the car to Nebraska to see my mom for a couple of days (400 miles one way), the 2nd day there the starter solenoid crapped out. Guess what - it had been recently replaced by the previous owner, and gave no sign of trouble until that last time I turned the key to "start".

If you want to replace a $3 PCV valve, go for it.

You also didn't mention transmission fluid and filter (transmission fluid for manual transmission), gear lube in the differential (often ignored in older cars), or flushing the brake system (good idea whenever you do other brake maintenance). You could also include minor things like the vapor canister filter and power steering fluid.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I have 240K on my 95 3.4L firebird. I have owned it since it had 30K. Have been using mobil 1 5W30 synthetic and been keeping up with basic maintenance. The car still runs like it did when I bought it, does not consume a sip of oil, and still gets 34 mpg on the highway.
My heavily drag raced by the previous woner 3rd gen had to have the motor rebuilt at only 122k. Regular maintenance and not abusing it is a guaranteed 200k.
Just my

ljnowell

I switched over a 225k mile 4wd ranger with a 3.0. I get castrol syntec free from work. It gained 2 mpg. No joke. My wifes DD is a 98 bonneville. Iscored an 85k engine for 65 dollars when the engine blew. I switched it over. I wouldnt hesitate to switch one over, if I expect the engine to last. BTW, my 88 camaro runs synthetic too.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

these are some of the recommendations i give my customers.

the life of the oil depends on how the car is driven.
in dusty conditions the oil needs to be changed more often.
on average i change my oil & filter around 3~4000 miles/3~4 months.
i don't consider a taxi cab as sever duty on the oil, that little 90 year old man or woman who drives their car 2 times a week & puts a whole 6 miles on it in that week is sever duty, they fall under every 3~4 months. (if this is your parents or grandparents, get off you butt & go vist them and have a look under the hood of their car, & check the tires while your at it. & yes, that includes the spare too)
i have seen plenty of motors with over 100,000 miles switched over to full synthetic & not have any problems, it comes down to how well it was maintained. even with around 200,000 miles on it, if i decided to i would not worry about switching over to full synthetic on my motor.
i would never recommend synthetic oil to that 90 year old person, it would be a waste of their money.
check the oil at least once a week.

replace the PCV valve when you do a major tuneup.
removing the breather tube & replacing it with an external filter violates emissions laws.

use a quality air filter & replace it when needed. a slightly dirty filter works better than a brand new clean one does. where it rains a lot the air filter will last longer than somewhere that is dry.

i agree with five7kid, don't use cheap belts. replace it when its needed, its one of the things you should check every time you check your oil.

change the alternator when it goes out or starts showing signs of going out.

replace the starter when it starts going out. i have had only 2 starters that did not give me a warning they were going out.
also, have the battery tested at least twice a year.

replace the fuel filter at least every 30,000.

replace the EGR valve when it goes out, there is no benefit in replacing a working valve.

i couldn't imagine replacing my radiator every 1~2 years. its about 14 years old right now, & other than a few holes i have knocked in it & had to have fixed, there is nothing wrong with it.
i saw no mention of replacing the T-stat or radiator cap with the coolant flush. after a hundred or so times of being removed & put back on, the cap has done its job & its time for a new one.
a good T-stat also helps the oil last longer.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't matter what type of K&N air filter. The oiled gauze media lets in a bunch of small dirt that will sand your cylinders and contaminate your oil. They may be fine for a racing engine that gets rebuilt every race (I still wouldn't use one), bad news for an engine you want to last.

what do u have to back this up,other than ur opinion. outside of seeing an oily buildup in side a mass air sensor,i've never had any problems with the K&N filter. paper sucks for flow.

its a kind of contradiction to say that the oiled gauze will let dirt through. um.its oiled. it will catch alot more than it will let through. show me the block that got sanded by these K&N filters.

these filters require maint. too. u clean and oil it more frequently,if u go buy what 7 says. i used to clean mine every oil change.@ 2500miles. i would change the fuel filter every 20k the pcv every other oil change. the trany filter every 30 -50k depending on how hard i drove it.brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles. alternator and starter? when they need it. i'm not an idiot.

and for the original poster.sorry to tell u this,but those 2 machanics u have are complete idiots. any time u change the motor,trans,and rear to synth. u will lower operating temps and add power across the board. everything works together.

i would never just change the radi just as a maint. thing. omg. was these to imbasils with 30 yrs of exp who said to do that??? u would be throwing money out. just flush it 2-5yrs.it depends on which anti freeze u use.
green. 2yrs. pink 5yrs. me. i use pink and i do it every 3 yrs.

u guys need to be careful what u tell poeple. having an opinion is fine,just let them know that it is just ur opinion.


7. i don't mean no disrespect. u have helped me in the past and i appreciate it. i really do. but dude, u are way off on this subject. if cleaned and oiled correctly the K&N is the best filter on the market. imo

i've been using them since they came out, and i never had 1 problem. i would have to see any data that will back that claim up. till then its just ur opinion and people should take it for what its worth to them. me i will be buying one for my car

VonKaiser

Thats some good info. As for the Tstat since we all know water pumps and Tsats go out often enough in our 3rd gens (especially for us in hotter climates) that is a given to replace often as seen fit. I think the main message I want to convey to the 3rd gen owners I talk to is regular and irregular maintenance NEEDS to be done if you expect any longevity. Isn't that the bottom line? Since 99% of the 3rd gens out there are paid for you have no monthly payments so spending a little $$$ on things you may not need at the moment is still a small price to pay for added longevity and even peace of mind.

And as for the breather tube, this is what I'm talking about:


How does this violate emissions laws? This has increased overall performance on how the car runs as well as keeps the intake pan cleaner since the smoke doesn't get sucked into the intake pan. Cleaner intake = better running car. Doing this has also REDUCED my emissions.

DENN_SHAH

iTrader: (1)

i agree, maintenance is very important on any car, and even more so on older cars.
the maintenance needs to be tailored to the car & how its driven.
as an example, we had an account that changed the oil in their ford vans around 15~20,000 miles. they ran what ever the house brand of oil was put in it by the shop that did the oil change, they never used synthetic.
under the hood they checked all the fluids, checked the coolant by removing the cap, and the belts & hoses at every cold start. they checked everything at every gas stop but did not remove the radiator cap, they just did a visual check of the level in coolant bottle.
other than stops for fuel, they would drive from start to finish non-stop. the start may be in New York with the finish in California. they used at least 2 drivers on these runs. sometimes they would drop off the cargo, change out the drivers & pickup more cargo and make a return trip back to the starting point with the van getting no more than a normal check over during a fuel stop.
the lowest mileage on any of their vans when we replaced the original motor in was around 500,000 miles. i think one went about 800,000 on the factory motor. they never had an oil related failure, most of the time a break down was caused by hitting something in the road & ripping a coolant hose. thats what good maintenance can do.
an example of poor/no maintenance, we had a customer who used synthetic oil & changed it every 20,000 miles, he would only check things if a light came on, or he heard a funny noise.
by around 100,000 miles, he was on his third motor


the external breather filter violates emissions laws because it allows crankcase vapors to be vented to the atmosphere.
it reduces your tail pipe emissions, but increases overall vehicle emissions.

VonKaiser

Interesting. Glad I'm doing my part to pollute planet earth. I'll have a new engine in before inspection is due most likely.

Oh, and I saw a 1997 Ford E250 go over 1,000,000. www.millionmilevan.com I find it amazing.

KamikazeIroccy

iTrader: (1)

i just dot agree with 87 octane fuel it makes my iroc ping,i always use 89 or better

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Then your timing is too far advanced, meaning you're increasing your NOx emissions, and probably making the knock sensor retard timing which is going to reduce power and economy.

Either that, or your EGR valve isn't working properly. Getting an SES light?

discostu

Here's a link to an ISO approved test that shows just how much dirt an oiled media filter passes.

http://home.stny.rr.com/jbplock/ISO5011/SPICER.htm

The test shows that although the paper filters (AC Delco and Baldwin) are slightly more restrictive at high airflows, they also filter out FAR more dust particles and last longer/flow better when they have some trapped dust inside.

The graph I like best is the one that shows all the oiled media filters with an exponential restriction in dirty conditions, but the paper filters have a linear restriction graph in the same conditions. Just shows that the oiled media filters flow better when you first get them, but will quickly be loaded up with dust and end up flowing worse then the paper filter.

KamikazeIroccy

iTrader: (1)

no my light doesnt come on and egr blocked off.

Bane

So with the synthetic oil, if I've been running standard penzoil 5w30 oil all my life, will it damage my car to change to a synthetic blend now?

TheRealBlkBird

Why would you want to prolong the life of a 305? Blow it up and put something bigger in already!!
----------
You can change over to synthetic at any point in your cars life and you can switch back to regular at any point, you can mix regular and synthetic, etc, etc. There are so many misconceptions about synthetic oil out there its not even funny.

KamikazeIroccy

iTrader: (1)

to answer that no. oil is oil whether synthetic or regular, synthetic just has better characteristics.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Whew, these threads balloon fast.

Hey Tim, what's the skinny on the amsoil air filters? I always liked K&N, (or the fram air hog knockoff I suppose), but I never knew they let fine particles through. I thought all their testing shows otherwise.
What makes the AMsoil different? Is it paper or cloth or..? oiled, reusable or...?

I still run a cheapie paper one in mine, but i'm looking to upgrade.

Saculia

iTrader: (1)

I was under the impression that synthetic oil will have a higher likely hood to leak in older engines, if they had not been run previously with synthetic. Other than that it is great oil. For older engines I have been told that the use of a synthetic bland would be better because of the old gaskets.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

yes u cam mix. but it won't be synthetic anymore. the conventional oil takes over the syn oil when they are mixxed. something with the additives in conven that neutrallizes syn.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

very interesting test. very good info too. but it was done on diesels in what i assume are trucks that travel in all kinds of bad and dusty weather. so yes not all filters are good for filtering. i've always thought that any perf claims made by companys are set to make money. that is a given.but u can hear the air improvement in a re-usable filter.but if u change ur oil every 2500 -3000 miles and clean the filter at the same time as i always do, the motor won't have enough time to develop that much dirt in it.

so unless u drive in a desert storm that test is pretty worthless in the world in wich we drive as commuters. it even states on K&N's box that u may have to clean the filter more frequently if u drive in a dusty environment.

so were u right? yes. was i right? yes. it is up to the consummer to figure out what his application will be. mine? well i will never drive through the Sahara,and i will never drive any where dusty enough to not take advantage of the performance gains that these filters provide. besides we need all the help we can get with all our 3rd gens.

oh. btw. he said that more air dosen't mean more power. that is complete bvll ****. its not as important to have more air and more fuel in a diesel. they don't have any spark. but gas motors run off of air,fuel and combustion. more air and fuel = more power. PERIOD.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It's detailed on their website. They no longer offer the type of filter that was tested in that link, mostly due to OEMs going to MAFs that were sensitive to oil contamination. To boot, that was a redesign of their original oiled foam design that I never liked. I kept their old design whenever possible.

While that test is "standarized", note they biased it with the choice of "dirt" size, coarse, which would favor cellulose filters.

The new filter is similar to cellulose in basic design, but uses finer fibers so there's more air flow area for the same dirt-trapping "hole" size. No oil, cleanable.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yea I couldn't tell what material their filters were. We're talking about their EaA filters right? You just vacuum/brush/blow off the filter and put it back in then eh?
Sounds easy enough. When I get the engine in i'll have to see what sizes are available.

TheRealBlkBird

Umm...it will be the same thing as the blends that they sell.


Saculia: That's one of the misconceptions I was referring to. Its not going to leak unless you're already leaking.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's what they offer now. The "TS123" was an oiled foam with two different densities of foam.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

what the hell does that mean.
conventional oil breaks synthetic back down to conventional. synthetic has man made additives in it so it doesn't break down as fast and bonds better to metal. conv starts to break down when it reaches a certain viscosity. hence it won't protect as good. syn,at that same viscosity limit will continue to protect.

u can add conv in syn and it won't hurt it,but it won't be syn anymore. so no.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Whoa, back the horses here.

Synthetic doesn't have "man made additives in it so it doesn't break down as fast and bonds better to metal". It is a synthesized, man-made base that tends to bond better to metal and tends to not break down as fast. Additives are used to give it the final properties that are desired. Look at the information on a "synthetic" oil and you'll probably find an footnote that says something to the effect of "except additive package".

The problem with things labeled "synthetic" these days is it may not actually be synthesized, but rather highly refined petroleum. Blame our lovely legal and regulatory system for that foul-up (and the "major" oil companies that want the marketing advantage true synthetic brands spend years cultivating, that don't want the same expense put on them - can you say "Castrol", "Penzoil", "Valvoline"?).

Mixing synthetic and petroleum doesn't no longer make it a synthetic - it just dilutes the synthetic. And, therefore, dilutes the properties. The biggest problem is you're 2nd guessing the formulation, whereas petroleum/synthetic blends are still formulated to produce the desired properties (although the overall performance and longevity of a blend will typically not be as good as a quality full synthetic).

Oil break-down is usually what changes the viscosity, not viscosity causing break-down. And, it's typically the viscosity index improver additives that are the first thing to break down and cause a viscosity shift.

For the record.

Sorry for the topic shift, but I can't let misinformation go, either.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

this should explain it better for the both of us.and correct anything that we were wrong about.

here is a quote.

In our own time, synthetic motor oils have been the object of numerous misconceptions held by the general public. Many people, including some mechanics, have been misled by these persistent myths.

PARAMETERS OF THE DEBATE

Synthetic motor oils are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select base stocks and special purpose additives. Synthetic oil base stocks are made from organic compounds or synthetic hydrocarbons using a process that re-arranges the structure so all the molecules are uniform in size, shape and weight, a phenomenon that does not occur in nature. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

maybe not man made. but produced in a lab none the less.jay.

In responding to the objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (The first such synthetic motor oil independently tested and confirmed to meet these industry-accepted tests for defining engine oil properties and performance characteristics was AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-40 in 1972.)

Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled here ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc.) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it's 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) the oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended for use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines, oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high-quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth #5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil 1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperature and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things can happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum base stocks begin to react with each other, forming sludge, gum and varnish. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital component protection.

Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow into critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge -- ingested dirt and water dilution -- can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system respectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum motor oils are similar compounds and neither is damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors. In fact, because engines tend to run cleaner with synthetics, sensors and emission control systems run more efficiently and with less contamination.

Myth#8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. Major engine manufacturers specifically recommend the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example, SJ/CF). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty.

In point of fact, in the twenty-eight years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic base stocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution, and the by-products of combustion (acids and soot) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However, by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic engine oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. This more than offsets initial price differences. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical than conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

CONCLUSIONS

Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.


About The Author

Ed Newman is Marketing Manager for AMSOIL INC., manufacturer of the original synthetic motor oil for automotive applications. He has published more than 200 articles as a freelance writer on a wide range of important topics.
So, of course, the marketing manager of a company that produces synthetic oil is going to be in favor of it. We aren't trying to create any converts and we don't personally sell Amsoil. I thought the article had some valuable information to share and I thought others might enjoy reading it.

this one is pretty good to 5-7.
http://www.answers.com/topic/synthet...cat=technology

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That's more like it.

The problem with your early definition of "synthetic" is that it is technically accurate, but it isn't technically accurate to call Group III oils "synthetic". Note the statement in your Wikipedia link: "Group III base stocks are considered synthetic motor oil in North America."

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

yes. i didn't mean to give missleading info. i just couldn't find the words to describe the point i was trying to make. thanku. U DA MAN
Jay.

now back to topic.
sorry Von.

VonKaiser

How often should you flush out/change your transmission fluid?

Secondly, how often do you guys change your air filter? I'm speaking to the ones with a 3rd gen 305 TBI w/over 200k miles on the engine.

Oh, and I put a good paper filter in yesterday so we'll see if it makes any difference versus my K&N OEM replacement.

darkride86T/A

I agree with what five7 said, with regular maintenance performed at the appropriate intervals, i.e. changing your fluids, belts, and tune-ups, your SBC, whether it's a 305 or 350, can give you years of dependable service and mileage. The only gas I run in my Bird is 87 octane and a fuel additive/detergent maybe twice a year. I too feel that you should'nt skimp on parts. My dad always told me " If you're going to do a job, then do the job right the first time." He still tells me that today. If you use quality parts the first time around, then you won't have to go back in a second time to fix it when it breaks, because it won't break.

My maint. schedule:


Oil change: 3 mos/3,000 miles(Castrol High mileage 10W40)
Coolant : 2 yrs/30,000 miles
Trans : 2 yrs/25-30,000 miles
PCV/Fuel : 10-15,000 miles
Air filter : 10-15,000 miles(paper) 35-50k miles(K&N OEM repl.)
Cap/Rotor : 2 yrs/30,000 miles(high quality with brass terminals)
Sparkplugs : 30-50,000 miles(depends on plug: Bosch platinum/AC Delco)
Plug wires : 30-50,000 miles(depends on brand:currently Moroso Bluemax)
Rear End : 2-3 yrs/30-50K miles


I'm probably forgetting somethig, but you get the gist of it. My car is a 1986 Pontiac Trans Am. I'm on tranny #3(so far so good,lol), but the LG4 305 is the original motor. She's got an Edelbrock Performer intake and an Autozone remanned E4ME Q-Jet, but that's it! It's never been gone into or out of the car. I replaced the fuel pump at 128,000 miles, the starter at 139,000 miles, and my alternator finally called it quits at 199,886 miles. Other than a little smoke at start up(worn valve seals) my 4bbl 305 has been , and still is very dependable. It's my DD and currently has 202,502.6 miles on the clock.

L69HAWK

iTrader: (1)

i agree with Dark ride and 5-7. except for the air filter D.R. i would change it at every oil change if its paper. but everything else is good.

VonKaiser

Awsome, that's a good list. I still FEEL better if I do these things more frequently. I don't really care if I'm wasting money--I just love to show my car attention since he's like my child (and best friend). Its like buying misc BS for your biological offspring. lol

Oh and --> AHEM, I've never changed the rear end fluid...infact I for a fact that its never been done. WHOOPS. lol What are the signs of a worn or bad rear end?

As far as I know since Jan. 11th 2000 (the day I originally bought the car) there hasn't been more than my 1 transmission replacement as well as only 3 alternators (one last Sat.). The lady I bought it from (age was late 40's) showed me her paper work on the maintenance history and it was pretty clean. No major services were performed due to something breaking. Just the usual general maintenance. I only had to replace the radiator and transmission mount. Everything else was cherry.

So far since I did my general maintenance tuneup the past couple of days he's running like he did the day I bought him with 117k miles on the clock. Using Seafoam on the vaccum lines, TB (tiny amount), crankcase (oil), and gas tank has free'd up a bit of lost power and has seemingly half-fixed my oil pressure gauge (WTF?). I'm going to do the fuel filter, coolant flush, rear end fluid replacement, transmission fluid flush, wheel cleaning (10 years of baked on brake dust), and the motor+transmission mounts probably tomorrow or Tuesday.