Oscar

Reposting from TPI forum.

So my Camaro has struggled to pass the last 4 smog inspections and failed the last two in So Cal. I am tired of going through this. I have 117,000 miles on it. No fluid leaks of any kind. Probabaly have a vacuum leak under the dash related to my vents because I can hear a hiss. Other than that, my Camaro is in immaculate condition, outside, inside, underneath the hood. It has not been a daily driver since around 1998. I will never sell it, and when I die, I have asked my wife to bury me in it. I put around 200 miles a year in it. Please see my list of mods below.

Because I love still love my car, I’m thinking about just throwing in a new engine and high flow cats. I would like to keep my Camaro TPI and smog legal, but I’m not sure how to go about this, what is compatible, and maybe upgrading a little. I will have someone do the work as I don’t have time. Currently my car is at the Chevy dealer where a friend works and will be looking at it. Should I look into a crate engine? What will fit? Should I be looking at just a block and heads? Not sure about budget either. I guess right now I can plan on a budget of 1-4K maybe 5K. Just not sure at this point. What is my best bang for my buck, a 383? A rebuilt? Although I’ve never been one to buy used or rebuilt. Am I wasting my money? Dealer can be very pricey, is there a better shop that knows what they are doing? I’m really looking for some guidance. I’m reading Camaro performance books now and the net to help educate me some more. Lot’s to think about. Other recommendation?

Some pictures of what my engine bay looks like now.

Sorry for the many questions and thanks in advance for your patience and help!

Happy Holidays!

http://f03-f01.mypicturetown.com/P2P...htiQa/item.jpg


http://f03-f01.mypicturetown.com/P2P...%25P0/item.jpg

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

What part of SoCal are you at? And what are the readings on the smog test? We can help you pinpoint the problem if we have that info.
I can also do custom chip tuning if that would help it pass.

Oscar

Hi, thanks for the reply. I'm in Sunland area. Burbank, Universal City, Glendale are nearby cities. My car is currently at Bubank Community Chevy. Basically I'm in what's considered the San Fernando Valley area. I'll have to get the smog numbers as I left the report in the car for my friend to look at. Do you own a shop nearby? Also where did you move the thread to so I can go there. I had originally posted it in the TPI forum but then found the Engine Swap forum, sorry if that was no no.

Guest

Why are you running 48psi fuel pressure? The car is probably running rich at WOT (they tend to run rich anyway), and maybe its affecting part throttle too.

Oscar

Because from what I've been reading in the books and this site, everyone recommended a 48 psi setting. The main reason that is given is that at 48psi, the fuel atomizes better, therefore a more complete burn. I've seen this main reason overwhelminly. Is that not correct? I also used to have the timing advanced to 12*. Now it's back to 6*, where it is smog compliant.

Starting to feel like I really don't know what I've been doing all this time...

Guest

It may atomize better, but its a bunch of extra fuel the engine does not need.

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

I would turn the fuel pressure back down to 44 psi and try it. Also make sure your cat is in good shape. Again, we need the info from your smog test.

KYLE87

iTrader: (5)

also might try running seafoam through the intake....IF that doesnt work the denatured alcohol trick worked for my bro.

thegooseman

So you dont live to far from me. Take your car to Kevin, he can really help you out, and he is not that far away.

Oscar

Gooseman, I see you're in Glendale, that's really close, my mom lives there. Where is Kevin's shop, what's it called? Has he done work on your thirdgen?

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

We're in Orange near the Arrowhead Pond and Angel Stadium. Its my father's shop, Dyno Don. He does the engines and I do the computer tuning.

See the SoCal forum here. The info is in the sticky at the top about "SoCal Thirdgen Friendly Companies." Or just send me a PM/email.

Oscar

Ok great Kevin, I got your phone # number, you're a bit far but it sounds like it would be worth my while and I'm
willing to make the drive, I can take my little girls to Disneyland while I'm at it.

So...here are the smog #'s.

Keep in mind too that everything on my car is smog legal and I think I hear a small vacuumm leak somewhere under the dash where the a/c vents are.

Thanks for the help Kevin.

http://f03-f01.mypicturetown.com/P2P...T5PQg/item.jpg

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

Ok, high NOx usually means your EGR valve isnt working. If you do have a bad vacuum line, that will affect the EGR's function. But under the dash that would only affect your a/c and heater controls. It shouldnt affect the vacuum to the engine but anything is possible.

Oscar

Hmm...EGR is new. In fact I think I've replaced most of all the emission parts at once so I wouldn't loose track of what was new and what was old. As for the vacuum leak, I do notice I get slow activation of one of the vents when I move the lever over.
I will call you later today or tomorrow to talk to you more in depth and the possibility of bringing my car over to your shop.

Thanks again for all the help!

Oscar.

Kevin91Z

iTrader: (1)

The valve is new, but what about the vacuum lines attached to it? Or the solenoid that controls it?

rgarcia63

Some EGR solenoids have a filter, if the filter becomes clogged, the vacuum cannot bleed off properly and too strong of a signal will be sent to the valve. Causing the EGR valve to open too much and cause a driveability problem.

Not all EGR valves used on our cars are same, so make sure you have the correct type for your model.

Oscar

I don't know about the solenoid, I'll have my friend at the dealer check it for me along with the vacuum lines.

Oscar

My friend just called me, he said the EGR is good and the solenoid is also good. He said that I don't have enough backpressure and that is causing the EGR to not open (some of this is above my head). That I don't have enough vacuumm to make the EGR work? I quote, "the vacuum is fighting against the backpressue". I may have not gotten that right. They plugged one side of the muffler and on the other side they put a socket held with a clamp and when they ran it, "the EGR opened all the way and the readings" he said, "went way down to like 200". He suggested maybe putting in a smaller muffler. Further more he said, maybe my headers could be the problem? A little confused by this since SLP reccommends the 1 3/4" ones and that's what I had installed. So then it seems to me that installing high flow cats would make matters worse. I have to admit, I'm somewhat skeptical of the final analysis. My logical senses don't quite give me that warm fuzzy feeling.

This is somewhat beyond my comprehension. Does this make sense to anyone?

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

How right you are, back pressure is needed on a TBI car not on a TPI car.
If it is not opening then is doesn't have the correct vacuum or the valve is not the right one.
Is it genuine GM, if not, that is the problem. After market ones are not good to use on our cars.

Oscar

The EGR is a dealer part. When it comes to sensors and emission related parts, I go straight to the dealer.

Thanks for clearing up about the back pressure. It was somewhat disheartning to hear that my current mods we're causing a negative effect since I want to gain more power anyways.

I left you a voicemail at your shop and emailed Kevin about doing somework for me but haven't heard back. I understand your probably really busy.

thanks and Happy Holidays.