Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

If there a way for Roller rockers to be bad?
I can hear what sounds like and Im hoping thats what it is.....rockers clanking! I have 1.6 pro mags that I switched to from 1.52 pro mags.

I adjusted the rockers per Sofakingdom's directions. Well almost, I went ahead and added my 1/2 turn while the engine was running. I then shut the car off and tighten the allen nuts. When I was tightening my lock nuts and placed my wrench on the nut...I could still feel that then had some play in them.

Could it be that the rockers are bad?

I dont like how the clanking sounds.
its not when idling...its only when I give it gas above 3000 either under load or not.

My engine builder says its valvetrain noise and not bottom end......he says to put the 1.52 back on and see if it goes away.


this was before I adjusted it...its loud but you can hear the clanking sound.


this is after some adjusting

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That part doesn't sound good.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

whadda mean?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Each adjusting nut should be held where adjusted and locked before going on to the next one.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

sofa's directions say to adjust by backing them off and then tightening them til the tapping sound goes away...then to shut the car off and add the 1/2 turn.
whats the difference in the way I did it? does my way actualy still leave some play in the rocker where they are not tight?

even with Sofa's way once you get the last rocker on the side you adjusting..I feel like the first one would have had time to vibrate off the tighten point.

can you hear the clanking Im talking about? does that sound like rockers to you?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

He was assuming self-locking adjusting nuts.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

OK? so with the way I did it...does that still leave them loose? and thats what Im hearing? whats that sound?

Is the procedure different when using poly lock rockers?

So I should do it the way he says but do each one and then lock it down before I move to the next?

I tried to do it as fast as possible cause with the high oil pressure I have it still shoots oil everywhere even at idle.

where do they sell the things that can be put over the rockers so they dont spit oil everywhere? I tried the local parts stores and they dont even know what I talking about.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

It doesn't leave them loose, but unless you lock the adjusting nut prior to taking the wrench off they're probably backing off as you go on to the next one. Unless you left some resistance on the allen lock when adjusting.

It's a little difficult to tell from the videos if it is indeed rocker noise. Are you sure you don't have any valve cover interference, such as baffles?

I don't know if there are oil clips available for Pro Magnums. I know the ones I have for stock stamped rockers don't fit my Magnums. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...m+oil+clip&x=0

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

positive its not the covers. It didnt do it when before I pulled the motor the last time about 3 weeks ago.
Let me explain, I went ahead and pull the motor to take it back to the shop to have them check and fix the oil leak I had in the rear of the motor...well come to find out it was a bad rear main seal. So they fixed it. didnt touch anything else.
When I got the engine back I put 1.6's on it and not my 1.52's I had to replace the studs too with 7/16ths. So after I fired the motor and drove it a few miles and came back to the house and checked all my connections and while I was reving the motor with the throttle bracket I noticed the clanking sound above 3000rpms...So I checked and checked...I even removed the rockers and push rods just off the cylinder I thought it was coming from whcih was #7 and the sound went away when I reved it past 3000..I thought OH NO not the bearings again!!!.. SO I never drove it again until I took it back to the shop 2 days later and asked them what it was. I even called AFR and asked about the PTV clearance with adding the 1.6's and they told me it would be across the board on all cylinders and not just one. if that whats it was.
THe shop swears that its valvetrain noise and not bottom end.

I just dont know!....they said I can pull the motor again if I want and take it back to them and they will check it out but I just dont want to pull this motor AGAIN!!!! Im sick of pulling it!

The shop told me that I wont even notice the 1.6 vs the 1.52's and to just put the same ones back on that I had and see if the sound goes away.

The sound is not there at idle at all..My valvetrain is NOISY as hell! but always has been. That clanking sound was never there.
I just wanna figure out what it is I know its not normal and cant be good to drive it like that especially at hight RPM's

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

anyone have any ideas? I know you guys are sick of all the problems Im having....BUT SO AM I!!!!!

dont for once think Im having fun with any of this...my stress and nerves are shot!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I remember your earlier posts, just get a little fuzzy on details with all the threads I read each day. I certainly don't for a second think you're having fun.

So, the 1.52's are 3/8" studs? If you put them back on you need to change the studs back. You're sure you've got clearance with everything with the 1.6's (guide plates, for instance), and all of the studs are torqued properly.

To be honest, I didn't catch the part about the noise you're talking about only being above 3000 RPMs. Valve train noises rarely do that, in my experience. Of course, my experience certainly isn't all-encompassing.

Just to be sure you've covered other bases, have you run it with the accessory belt off? Torque convert/flexplate bolts tight (although that also tends to be an idle noise rather than higher RPM noise)? It's not a spark plug wire snapping to a header tube. Or PCV valve (that's a stretch). Have you tried it with the valve covers off? I realize that'll make a mess.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

Yeah ive got posts all over this site with the nightmare of problems Ive had with this build. if I can ever get this thing to normal I'llhave me a nice 11 sec car.....and maybe in the 10's when I hit it with the gas. but I just cant seem to get it right!

yeah the 1.5's are 3/8ths I didnt check the guide plates (what would I check for) when I put the 7/16ths studs in I remember noticing that the plate holes would not really allow for any kind of movement.

taking the belts off? what would that do? its nowhere near a sound like coming off the belts.

Im trying to figure all this out without pulling the motor again..and again...did I say AGAIN!!!...LOL

Tomorrow I'll just pull all the studs and rockers back off and put the 3/8 1.52's back on Re-adjust the valve AGAIN and see what happens...cause it didnt do it with those on before I pull the motor.

So if it doesnt do it then somthing is either wrong with the studs rockers and valve geometry?

and if it still does it then it gotta be internal...AND OUT THE MOTOR comes again!

hey theres that AGAIN word..again!...LOL

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Eliminate any possibility that the noise is coming from one of the accessories. If you can't pinpoint the location of the noise, it sometimes means it's being transmitted through the block. That can come from a noisy bolted-on accessory.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

you dont think in anyway it can be the studs and the rockers that I have on there now?

what if when I change them back to the 3/8th 1.52's all the clanking goes away...what would that mean?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That would mean it's the 1.6 rockers
making the noise

Now I may have glazed over this thread a bit, but have you tried cold lashing your valves? Or relashing them hot, but locking the poly-lock before going on to another? It's easier than completely swapping out to the 1.52's with the 3/8" studs...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Are they quiet with the valve covers off, but noisy with them on?

Then it's the valve covers.

Look closely at the baffles for the PCV connections.

I have those same VCs, and the same rockers. The sides of the rockers rub on the baffles. The baffles had to be .... ummmm, massaged gently .... with a BF pair of Channellocks, in order to clear the rockers. I didn't notice it at first; it sounded about like somebody ringing a bell inside my VCs.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

well today I switched back to the 3/8th studs and the 1.52's and I adjusted them the right way and I still get the clanking noise when giving it gas.
Now what the hell could it be? I know its hard for you guys to really pin point the sound and where its coming from but Im just looking for some ideas.
I can pull the motor out again and take it back to the engine shop and they said they will look it over to make sure its not bottom end but MAN! I dont want to pull this thing out again!!!!! Im so sick of pulling it.

heres a vid where maybe you can here the sound alittle better.
It did not make the sound right before I took it down the last time and all I did was put the 1.6's on, well now its back to the way it was before pulling it.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, you hear it right as you finish revving it, as it's coming back down....

Too small to be pistons or rods. Sounds like something light, like rockers...
If you hold the RPMS up to 2000RPM, can you make out the sound? Maybe use some tubing to your ear on the valve covers while a buddy holds it at 2000RPM, see if you can hear it more. Check other places with that tube too. Timing chain cover, oil pan, bellhousing etc... Timing chain slop might be it.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

So your pretty sure it not bottom end from the way the rattling is?...yeah I can hold it to about 3000rpms and you can hear in rattling its not must when its coming down on the revs. Once I get to a certain rpm the sound is constant but hard cant hear as defined cause of the motor reving....I have checked with a stethescope(spelling) and the sound sounds like it coming from under the heads. Everything is brand new how can it be a timing chain? hell my 160000mile stock chain never did that. why would a hex adjust do it with only about 1300miles on it. Ive only got about 300 miles on it now since it was taken out and put back in. I have not drivin it since I found the noise. I dont want to screw it up and make it worse.
What should I do? pull it out? take the intake off? Im stumped.

If its valvetrain what could it be? I thought it might have been the 1.6's but apparently it wasnt unless the damage was already done one I put the 1.6's on and off.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

What's your oil pressure doing during all this? Is it lower than you would expect? Does the pressure go up when you let off the throttle?

LarsZ28

This might be extremely obvious, but rev it with the PVC pulled out of the valve cover and your thumb over the PCV hole.



*Edit. Ok I just saw that Five7kid had already mentioned that.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I don't know how it could be the timing chain, i'm just thinking out loud about what size rotating parts are in there. I think if it were rods/pistons it would be lower pitched or louder.
Do you know anybody who works at an automotive shop? Maybe try to borrow their rubber exhaust tube. You skip that over your exhaust and lead it out of your garage. That'll help pull away some of the exhaust sound (and keep you from asphyxiating yourself... Then you a stethoscope or piece of hose and listen for the sound while you hold the RPM up. Don't pull the engine until you know where the sound is coming from. Or if you do pull the engine, run it on a stand until you're confident there's no sound, then put it back in the car.
(I still wouldn't pull the engine yet)