Car won't run.... here is what I've done and found, or have not found to this point.

My daughter was driving to school and the car died on the freeway, I was not there so I don't know exactly the way it stopped but it did stop.
The car does crank over. I had it towed to my work so I could look at it.
whan it is cranked there is a slight indication that it wants to start.
The first thing I checked was the fuel pressure thinking that the fuel pump was bad, 39 psi, seems good.
No codes showing using a paper clip in the OBD port, just 12, 12, 12.
I found that the coil wire did not have a good connection to the dizzy cap and showed signs that it was leaking spark out.
I changed the coil wire, dizzy cap, rotor and ignition module. would not start.
I pulled a spark plug wire and verified that it did have spark.
I was able to start the car on starting fluid.
In the past I had an injector go bad and that killed all the injectors to where none would fire but it wad a different symtom, when cranked, it would start for about 1/2 second and die, after ohming the injectors, found one at 3.5, the rest were 12.5 to 13, changed the one and problem solved.
Today I found that one injector was a little off, 10.8, I changed it and the car is no better.
I don't want to just blindly start changing parts until I hit the right one, could get expensive so I am now turning to the experts, you guys helped me before.
One other thing, during my early trouble shooting, after replacing the ignition parts I had the car running, it rev'ed, it idled, and just as I was ready to take it around the block for a test drive it died on me, cut out, then ran a second and died, I've only been able to start it on starting fluid since.

 

One other thing, when it is cranked, the tach does move, seems to read the cranking speed of the engine, about 200 rpm.

 

anyone?

 

The 10.8 ohm injector is marginal, and they tend to drop resistance a bit once they get warmed, so you did not waste your time changing it.

Is there a 12VDC supply to the injectors with the ignition on?

Is there at least 35 pounds of fuel pressure at the rail?

If fuel pressure is adequate and you have an injector tester, you can test fire each of the injectors. If you have a spare injector electrical connector, you can do the same, but be careful to minimize the ON time.

 

There is 39 psi to the rail.
How can I check to see that there is 12 volts to the injectors, is there a fuse for the injectors that I should be looking at?
If at all possible, I'd like to avoid removing the top of the intake again.
Thanks,

 

I have verified that there is 12 volts on the pink/black wire to the connector going to the injectors, I did not look to see if there are 2 of these wires.

 

Changed out ECM, no help