Pennocks91ws6

k, i have my 305 up on the rotler, and its being bored .30
the shop that does the work, seems like a bunch of amature alcoholics and im wondering if a ****up like this is possible,, or if the reason i was given is sufficient.

i walk in, to see all my cylinders bored out, and the guy says ill neeed .60 pistons now ( i already have .30s) i look at the cylinder and a little less than half of it, has not even been touched by the cutting bit, and i can feel a decent ridge on the lateral side of the block,, (closest to another cylinder)from the old cylinder to the fresh machined part of it,

is it even possible to have a random cylinder(#5), that never spun anything to be so ****ign out of wack,, or is it just an idiot that cant use a machine proper

edit- i forgot to say, if the rolter were centered, wouldnt it miss the right and left side equally? that is,, lol if the cylinder was as the guy said, oval?

Damon

You can feel a ridge half way down the bore??? That ain't right. Sounds like they screwed up and now want you to buy bigger pistons so they can take it out to 60 to clean it up.

Pennocks91ws6

not half way down, like the cylinder is fully bored, but apears to be off center, missing half of the cylinder,
im just wondering if this is encountered normally
because it looks ****ign stupid to me

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Oh yeah...

You have NO CLUE how messed up some factory blocks REALLY are.

Yerbasic "rebuilder" will typically bore a block "on the wear", for EXACTLY this reason. You go and bore the cyls where they ACTUALLY BELONG, there's no telling whether it will clean up the wear, or not. It depends on how far off the OE bore was from where it belonged. Which can be QUITE a ways, sometimes.

If you take a normal block that's got lots of miles on it, and attempt to bore it "perfect", what you're seeing is pretty much what you get.

Blocks are cheap. Go buy another one and be done with it.

Or, buy one from them, that's already bored, that made it. Pay their core charge, or go buy another junk one to take care of that. Just make them show you, using the measuring instruments right before your very eyes, that the one you're buying has the cylinders all in a straight line, all pointed directly at the center of the rod journal on the crank, all perpendicular to the crank centerline (not tilted front to rear), etc.

Other things to check real quick while you're checking, are whether the lifter bores are pointed at the cam; whether the bell housing flange is perpendicular to the crank CL, and whether it's centered on the crank CL; whether the head dowel pins are int he right place; what the deck height of each cyl is; whether the starter bolt holes are the right distance from the crank.

And that's just THE MACHINE WORK. Look at casting shift, porosity, and abotu a thousand other ways that blocks can be less than perfect. Then you'll gain a BRAND-NEW appreciation for why some motors run better than others, even though the parts list is IDENTICAL.

I can only just barely believe you're spending money on a 305. You in some kind of sanctioned class that requires that? if not, throw that thing in the trash and get a 350. Grow yourself a pair.

Guest

Bore spacing is easy enough to check, thats where I'd go from here.

Pennocks91ws6

i thank everyone who posted, the reson im rebuildign the 305 is because i started collecting parts for my 305, and yes i know the onlydif is pistons, rings and headgasgets. but all i need is a motor to tune off of till its time fore the big stuff and im more comfrotable tuning,, 350 305, theyre both terribly slow in stock trim ,and terrible to any cam changes with stupid map speed density

anywyas, im sure i can get a set of .60's and be done with it, p.s heads, and block are already decked, so,, i d like to be done with it,

i also have no clue, if all my sensors work,, or are even hooked up, because i bought the car with a spun rod and im finding stupid wiring hack jobs in the headlights stupid things.

so i dont care, if i spend more and get less power even, because i just want to get tuning, and start puttign bolt ons on before something like a all forged 383, turbo motor, or a spare 400 i got kickin around.

F-BIRD'88

SEEEE! ya should have just honed 'er out yourself at home and stuck the old pistons right back in with the rings flipped over like the rest of us do.....LOL

wod he say Earl?

Pennocks91ws6

lol that had to be the best thign ive ever heard, and im starting to think i should have, but i think id buy some rings lol

F-BIRD'88

couple good shots of NOS at WOT down the street and them old rings ill be good em seated......yup yup....
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you were gonna build a 350 anyway ,,, right?


that block is toast. got a floating dock that needs a anchor?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The absolute worst reason for rebuilding a 305 is because that's what you've got.

The absolute best reason for rebuilding a 350 is because you have a 305 that needs rebuilding.

Cut your losses. Start realizing the gains. Get a 350 and donate that 305 block to the gods of recycling.

Pennocks91ws6

350 block, heads, injectors, chip, knock sensor, plus i dont even want to explain it to my machinist,, especially for the extra 20 horses

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Why? What business is it of his?

A 350 block is $50, maybe $100.

You HAVE TO buy a block anyway.

Think about it... you're proposing spending at least $600 at your machinist, probably more, on this 305. You have to buy pistons, rings, gaskets, a cam maybe, fluids, tune-up parts, hoses, belts, a whole laundry list of might-as-wells (water pump for example), and so on. By the time you get this thing finished, you WILL have in excess of $1500 in it, and more likely, closer to $2000.

You can re-use your 305 heads on a 350 with an appropriate choice of pistons. So you DON'T have to spend extra money on those.

Pistons for a 350 cost less than pistons for a 305.

I'm betting that the total difference in cost from where you are now to a running 350, compared from where you are now to a running 305, is less than $50.

Explain to your financial adviser how it's smarter to go buy another 305 block than to buy a 350 block.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Who did the machine work here?!?
Rod at D&W wouldn't give you that kind of half-a**'ed crap.

Pennocks91ws6

k, so anyways, im obviosly scrappin the block, a .60 didnt even straighten it.
the machine work is free
i work at a parts store , so i can return all parts (thank jesus)

the machine shop has a nice abandoned scat 383 short block for 1500 bux im just stuck on what cam to use with it MAP sensor crap, im thinkin of the 96 corvette lt1 with 1.6's

any other ones that will be good for a first time tuner?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Almost anything will be better than some stock cam.

I'd suggest the Comp "304" grind http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2D08%2D304%2D8 Should run good but not present any radical or insurmountable tuning difficulties.