89importeater

hey guys i have a 454 bored .30 Mark IV that i am trying to put in my camaro. i want 500-600hp/tq but i dont know where to begin. would you guys give me a idea of a combo that would do let me reach my goal? i just dont really know what to look for. For heads i dont care if they are aluminum or iron but i dont want to spend like 3,000 dollars for a set. For cam i would like it to have a nasty idle if at all possible (if the heads will allow for a cam that big). the car will see street and strip time, probably about 60% street 40% strip. thanxs guys

AlkyIROC

You want to build a high HP street engine without spending any money. Good luck.

85Firebird350

iTrader: (3)

Try the Brodix, Dart or World products top end kits from jegs or summit. A engine like you want isnt going to happen for cheap, thats for sure.

89importeater

i know i will have to spend lots of money i just dont want to spend 3,000 on just a pair of heads, and i know thats not a far stretch because their are numerous heads on the market that would be below 3,000 for a set. Their is no way i could be able to build the motor i want for less than 3,000 i know that much.

And firebird yea i was thinking about doing that, but i didint know if some of the top end kits would let me reach my goal, especially the cheaper ones.

88transam400tpi

are you using a carb or fuel injection

89importeater

carb

F-BIRD'88

TRW L2465F30 pistons Edelbrock RPM "R" square port heads. RPM air gap manifold ( "R" square portl) Comp cams 294S Magnum solid cam, 248-248@.050 .595.595 110LSA large,long tube headers (Hooker) 850cfm carb.
You must check piston dome to combustion chamber clearance on this one.
May need minor grinding of the combustion chamber edge or piston dome to get clearance. This is standard procedure for any cylinder head other than the origional GM hi perf square port heads (454 LS6)

85Firebird350

iTrader: (3)

Those kits arent bad at all. You wont be a all out race car but it will put out really good power and you should be able to reach your goal, I don't see why you shouldnt.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I`ll take a stab at it, I would think if you want to keep it cheap, the use of factory parts would be the first choice or offshore parts can keep it cheap too. I found some good deals on ebay for new parts. start with at least 10.1 compression, you`ll need a 25cc dome to get that with a 119 chamber, if you have a choice choose the thinnest ring pack you can get, 1/16 should be avaliable weather you pick hyper or forged pistons. New bearings thru out, along with a stock volume, stock pressure pump. A 6 qt oil pan should be on your list, the stock 4qt chevelle pan is cheap and fits but the rule of thumb is a qt for every 1,000 rpm you`ll use. A double row chain of a good name brand will do the timing duties fine, be sure your front cover will clear, stock ones sometimes will interfere with a 2 row chain.
As for cams, to be on a budget and to use it as a street strip car the HYD flat tappet is the best choice, I picked a few out that may work out for you...they get more aggressive as you go down

Lunati vodooo series

Duration @ .050 IN/EX: 241/249;Lift IN/EX: .525"/.546";LSA / ICL: 110/106;RPM Range: 2500-6600
Part #: 60105LK

Comp cams extreme energy

. Hyd. 2800 to 7000 11-254-4 XE294H 294 306 250 256 .588 .593 110

(I used this one myself, it was a big power producer!)


Crane cams
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Isky

396304 304-MEGA 3200-7500 .612 .000 304° 256° 108°
HYDRAULIC .612 .000 304° 256°


A good set of pushrods of .080 wall chromemoly will be a good investment as would a decent set of aluminum roller rockers, sometimes you have to look at it as this, anything you buy that isn`t quite up to the task will cost you triple in the long run...trust me I know from experince...as much as it hurts the little extra it costs to put a good reliable valve train together is worth it, you only have to buy decent stuff once, weather it`s to replace a budget minded purchase that has not worked out or the first purchase for that need, it`s still the same cost. BBC are rough on the valve train, spend wisely.

Cylinder heads, there are many aftermarket choices if that`s the route you can afford to go, you get what you pay for......Iron heads are less expensive and can make just as much power as aluminum ones, but wieght is worth power, 75 pounds is about how much xtra they are over aluminum ones. A small rectangle port in the 300-320 cc range is a good size to have, it can support all of your goals while maintaining a decent throttle response and also leaves plenty of room to grow, oval ports are also an option but generally are limited in port size 290 is about a normal size, I have never ran them so it`s hard to explain the cons and pros on those. Stock heads, if you can find a decent set can be a viable alternative, after machining and parts of course you could be putting good money after bad.

Intake choices are pretty straight foward, 4150 flange in a dual plane high rise (Eldy RPM) or Weiand has a new dual plane out too you could look at.
Of course with your planned combo you border on the open plenum area, my experince is this, going from a eldy RPM to a weiand team G offered no change in throttle response and honestly no change in et, mph was better however and distrubution according to the plugs improved. (if you come across a good deal on a open intake I wouldn`t pass on it)

A 850 4150 flange carb, double pumpers, mechanical would be what I would use.

When I fist dropped in a pig block in my car it ran 5,000 for the engine and then there was the headers, and igniton, steering,charging and cooling systems to purchase. Once it was running it was and is a never ending hole in the garage that I funnel money into, for what it`s worth though I would not change a thing if I had the chance, it`s my hobby and working on it and improving it is what it`s all about for me....the big grin ear to ear when I get it out and actually use it is just a bonus in my eyes.