Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

Ok trans is dropped, motor is out to fix all my leaks..
WHy is everything leaking and how can I fix it all? one time! I dont want to pull the motor again...


front , side, back, intake...everything is leakin...my underbody is covered...and that one thing I have is a leaking motor.

did I use the wrong stuff? or not enough?

FRONT under timing cover and front seal


BACK right along the gasket


INTAKE..


SIDE along gasket


DIZZY and I dont know what all over the valley..I think its fuel

ede

did you use the china wall gaskets? if so i'd trash them and use copper or gray rtv. are all the bolts in the lower right front of the block, even the unused holes, if not i'd put one in. is your PVC system working?

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Get rid of the Fel Pro pan gasket...they all leak.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

well then what do I use?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't look to me like the pan gasket is leaking.

Looks like both the front and rear seals are leaking, and the rear "china wall" RTV bead.

The rear main seal looks like you probably either put sealant behind it or you just stuck it straight into the cap and/or block instead of using the little "tool" that comes with it to work it around the place it goes.

The front, looks like the seal was put in by tapping around its circumference with a hammer. Instead, put it in by supporting the cover from behind the seal surface on a FLAT surface, laying a 6" piece of 2x4 across the seal, and giving it one mighty whack with a BFH. Emphasis on "mighty" and "BF".

The china wall, there's not enough RTV, for one thing. For another, there's none smeared onto anything I can see, it's just laying there. Those work better if you schmear some onto the block; lay a BIGGER bead on it than that one; wait about an hour; then schmear some onto the intake and GENTLY onto the top of the bead, and install the intake, perfectly straight in one shot WITHOUT sliding, realigning, lifting, moving, or anything else: just set it down perfect the first time.

I can't tell much about the oil pan; but with as many penetrations and whatnot as that thing has, I'd be amazed if it could EVER seal. I'd suggest getting rid of that and getting just yerbasic stock type pan on there. IIRC your motor doesn't need anything more than that, a specialty pan will create more problems than it will solve anyway.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

Ok I understand what you mean about sealing the intake....but I dont have enough money to buy another pan......someone told me to run a small bead along both sides of the gasket especially in the rear and front valleys....

and as far as the front seal..I did it the way you said....and it still leaks like u see...Im wondering if something is wrong with my snout on the balancer?

jonmark1985

are you running a pcv valve on that motor?

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

yeah Im running a PVC system on the motor....I got the intake off and cleaned both china walls the intake gaskets stayed put so Im not going to mess with them......I'll do it like Sofakingdom says to do it as far as the intake....
but with the oil pan...I dont know what Im going to do with that...I guess I'll smear some RIGHT STUFF gasket maker on the pan and the motor and then apply the rubber felpro gasket back on it......and hope that it doesnt leak..

Lo-tec

You are using new intake gaskets, correct?

Make sure everywhere you put silicone is clean....wipe it down really good with wax/grease remover or brake clean before you put it back together. If it doesn't stick it can't seal.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

no im not using new intake gaskets.....why would I have to buy new ones...these look fine...they only have about 300 miles on them....
Im going to use RIGHT STUFF gasket maker...seems to be the RTV of choice nowadays...

and as far as the oil pan gasket......Im thinking the damn thing is way to thick not letting my oil pan seat all the way down....

Randy82WS7

rubber gaskets are garbage, ive tried rubber gaskets i the past and they always leak for me


on the oil pans i always only use the standard replacement cork ones and the stock front and rear black pan seals


for intake china walls i only use black RTV and lots of it and lot sin the corners too

always perfect no problem first time every time never had a leak ever on any engine this way

valve covers i only use cork and i always rtv or shell the gaskets to the covers first

never a leak ever and still removable a few times even and still no leak ever


front seal can be a problem if the snout of the dampner is grooved too deep if so then you have to get a snout sleeve and seal for like 7 or 8 bucks whatever, they work good i even had to do it on the 22RE engine in my 88 toyota pickup when i did the timing chain set and tensioner in it but i lot the front part of the head gasket at the top of the timing cover so it leaks oil out of it and theres really nothing that can be done about it short of a new head gasket and well im not going to unless it was burning water in which it doesnt and ive been running it this way over a year now no problem

lol


cork gaskets on the oil pan and valve covers just work out well for me, rubber gaskets = bad times

just are too slick and dont seal worth a damn




good luck

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

IMO the rubber gaskets aren't the problem.

Think about it.... you don't worry about a few pieces of leaves and grass getting in a motor as you install it or change an intake out under the shadetree or something, right? Because that stuff will pretty much disintegrate in short order with the heat and whatnot in an engine, right? Well, what is cork, anyway? It's just some tree bark after all.

I will NEVER, EVER AGAIN put a piece of cork into any engine or transmission that I build, unless there is absolutely no alternative. That goes DOUBLE for valve cover gaskets, since as we all know, they turn to ashes right on the center above the 2 exhaust ports next to each other, within just a few thousand miles. For SBCs I use the FelPro rubber ones (VS12869R). I use gorilla snot to glue them into the cover, and then either grease if I think I might be taking them off again (solid cams for example) or gorilla snot on the head too if it's a hydraulic. I always use the wide load spreaders with sheet-metal covers, and bend the bolt holes back past straight and actually upward a little toward the bolt head. But even those won't last forever in that one hot spot; they still have a short lifetime, maybe only about 10 times as long as cork at 30-40,000 miles or so, but sooner or later they usually burn to a crisp and start to leak, too.

JMO... we all have our preferences.

jonmark1985

Generally when people have problems with rubber gaskets its from using RTV on them. I try to avoid using it on any rubber gasket and only use it to hold the gasket in place. I'm yet to have problems wit a rubber gasket.

1320_Guy

iTrader: (3)

I have used both rubber and cork gaskets. Personaly i like cork better. As long as you dont overtiten it they seal great. Dont reuse the intake gaskets. for the 10$ its not worth putting it togeather and having it leak just to take it back off and buy gaskets anyway.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

theres nothing wrong with them....they seem to be just fine...I'll just smear a very small amount of RTV on the water jacket ports and maybe around the other ports just to be sure..

now with the oil pan, where you see the leaks in the picture on the front and rear...Im going to run a small bead in each valley along with the rubber gasket..and be done with it and pray it dont leak....

Dont use RTV on rubber? hell I didnt and it leaked!