fb305svs

Ok - yes, i know, the question, why don't you buy a solid roller cam... truth is, i don't want to buy a custom cam in order to get a streetable solid...

I am currently runng an XR288 comp cam with some tweaks for the trickflow heads i am running...

the issue i have run into is i have a couple lifters that are begining to fail and bleed out - adjustment never stays, and it almost sounds like it has solids in it now! I know how to do the adjustment, i used to do that chore every week with the race motor when me and my father raced.


Anyways, i have a set of new, never used crane solids rollers meant for an oem roller block (which mine is. I have no clue where to set the lash for this cam, and if it would even be a good idea to run those lifters on this cam.

I also read on cranes site that 220 duration on a hydro setup is like 228 on a solid????? doesn't make a lot of sense to me, unless they are refering to the fact you lose some duration and lift from the lash...

So what are your opinions? should i bite the bullet and just get the solid cam? I use a rev kit now with the hydros, and the springs are pretty good. But my motor is no 7k motor, it's almost a stock bottom end....

and to that note, does anyone know how the solids will effect the pushrod length? i'd love to take it apart and get it back together all in one shot if i do this, but if i have to measure for pushrods, it's obviously going to delay that... i'm sure i will have to just deal with measuring it out and waiting for the parts, unless someone is sure

- Steve

Air_Adam

Ok, I'll bite... why do you want solids, when you could just replace your junk'd hydraulic rollers with fresh ones? Theres not really going to be much, if any benefit to changing to solid rollers without changing the cam at the same time.

Got any specs on the engine? If its an EFI setup, I'd have to say no - solid lifters (roller or std type) don't jive well with the factory EFI system. It drives the knock sensor crazy, causing all sorts of weird trouble.

Apeiron

You're going to replace a few $7.50 OEM lifters with a $420 set of solid rollers, and you're not even going to use the right cam?

jonmark1985

I don't belive a hydraulic cam will like solid lifters. Generally camshafts of different nature are made of different materials, machined and hardened in different ways, i would call comp's tech support and see what they think.

Also, as i understand it, a "wilder" cam will run smoother in a solid lifter set up compared to a similar spec'd hydraulic cam due the lash and rev capibilities they posses, matience and noise are the key issues, also roller lifters like the revs better yet and can handle a more aggressive lobe, due somewhat to how they follow on the cam.

I'm with the other guys and believe you should check and replace the lifters as needed, or like you said, commit to the entire solid set up. I feel it couldn't hurt to check your camshaft, i have heard horror stories about comp cams, while i don't have any personal experience with them, i don't feel it would hurt to check the lobes, and its generally free, finally are you running guide plates or self-aligning rockers?

Stekman

If the cam core is billet, then it will work, with the correct valve lash setting (critical factor). In order for it to work, camshaft itself aside, you would need to get a specific lash setting from the cam manufacturer.

But generally, I am in agreement with the above. Spend a little bit and replace the dead lifters, or spend the money and buy the proper cam. You won't gain anything performance wise by putting SR lifters on the HR cam.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The lobes are ground differently for hydraulic vs. solid lifter cams, even if both are roller ("billet" don't mean diddly). There is no lash with a hydraulic cam, so putting putting solid lifters on it will be an exercise in noise and valve train stress.

fb305svs

Hi Guys - thanks for the replies...

The first thing i want to explain is that these lifters were given to me free and clear - i didn't spend a dime on anything yet.

I would love to replace the cam, but the bottom end of the motor is a zz3. trickflow heads, XR288HR cam (236/242 050 duration, 535/576 lift (1.6 rockers) factory roller hydros, afr rev kit.

The springs on the heads are the heaviest available for the heads already assembled - specs below...

1.460" o.d. double with damper
125 lbs. @ 1.780" installed height
376 lbs. @ 1.180" open
420 lbs. per inch rate
.600" maximum valve lift

I was, possibly, over concerned about the spring rate and the lifters. I remember having had issues with simliar springs on different motors in the past. What do you think about this? too much spring for hydros? shouldn't be a problem?

Anyways, the issue i am concerned about is having to replace valve springs, and changing cams... I am pretty tightly strapped on the budget end, yet i would like to get these lifters swapped out...

I'm not looking to gain perfomance per say - it's just that i have them and am trying to figure out whether i should just hang onto them for when i have the money to build the motor, or whichever...

If it is the general concensus that buying some replacement stockers would be a better option, then i'll consider that instead...
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Hmm I see - i was kind of thinking the slower ramp speeds would help with the stress factor, although in hindsite, i guess i could see where the opposite might be true...

Suggestions on where to go for OEM lifters? Chevy dealership?

84z28350

Best bet is to throw them in the closet and wait until you can afford to buy the right cam.

If you cant afford the right cam now, how can you afford to potentially destroy the one in your car, possibly(very) nuking your motor and leaving you without wheels...

fb305svs

understood! thanks for the replies guys - that was basically why i asked the question... I had a good idea on the answers, but i know it never hurts to ask others!

Apeiron

Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku
Trick Flow: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
Sealed Power: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku
Comp Cams: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

Damon

I know two guys on another board who are running solid roller lifters on a hydraulic roller cam. It can be done. The key is that you need to lash then down viciously tight. Hydraulic cams don't have lash ramps ground into them like solid cams do to take up the valve lash slowly before getting into real lift. They both run about .002" of hot valve lash clearance (vs. a typical solid lifter cam lash that would be a comparatively massive .016-.025").

Not my cup of Ramen Noodles, but it's been done successfully.

Air_Adam

I'm using springs with very similar specs with my flat tappet hydraulic XE274, which is also similar to your cam. Its working just fine with those valve springs. I dare say that my XE274 probably has an even more aggressive lobe design than your cam does, and its just fine with the hydraulic lifters and springs.

I'm sure some of the aftermarket cam mfg's make replacement hydraulic rollers for the '87+ GM blocks. Check with COMP or Crane maybe? GM is also a good choice.

F-BIRD'88

Are your valve springs shimed to the proper installed height? OEM Hydraulic roller lifters can be torn down and cleaned or refurbished. Usually noisy lifters are caused by dirt infecting the plunger bore clearance and or hyd metering valve/disc in the lifter.