F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

My Idea of a KILLER STREET ENGINE! 377 SBC


Short Block
-Dart Little M block 4.155 bore + splayed mains + head and cap studs +1 piece rear main
-Eagle forged Crank
-Eagle H-Beam Cap Screw 6.125 Rods
-JE Forged +5cc
-Total Seal Gapless Rings; Top Ring Thickness: 0.043 in.
Second Ring Thickness: 0.043 in.
Oil Ring Thickness: 3.0mm
-Clevite 77 bearings

Valvetrain
-Cam...Lunati VOODOO
Cam Style: Mechanical roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,800-7,200
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 249
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 255
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 249 int./255 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 279
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 285
Advertised Duration: 279 int./285 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.585 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.600 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.585 int./0.600 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110
Camshaft Gear Attachment: 3-bolts
Intake Valve Lash: 0.016 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.016 in.
-1.6 Crane Cams Roller Rockers
-AFR Hydra Rev Kit

TOP END
-AFR 210cc Eliminator Lumi cylinder heads
-Holly 815 CFM Blow through Carb for S/C
-Brodix Single Plane 3500-7200 rpm manifold
-Vortec 6-8 PSI Supercharger

Oil System
-Dry Sump
-Windage tray and 2 crank scrapers.
-Crankcase evacuation system: 2 Doyle valve/header evac line

So what do you desktop dyno guys think this would produce? Anything to change? Any parts you would better recomend? I was just toying with the idea personally, but It would be a $10,000 budget for the S/C and $6,500 for the N/A.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

With 5cc pistons your CR would be way too high to use a blower. Use a soup dish piston, like a 30cc or something. Use the crank with the 3.75" stroke, cubes will help you make more power.
Then you're set for a nice dream motor.

F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

They shouldnt be to much if im using E-85 .

ljnowell

more cubes = more power. I gotta agree with above, get as much displacement as you can, and then put some squeez on it.

F-Body Demon

iTrader: (1)

That is true, however. The 3.75 stroke crank will be taking a lot more of a pounding in there than a 3.48 will. And the idea of this build was maximum horsepower and RPM. But I am no expert, maybe a amatuer but no expert. Can a 3.75 stroke crank handle the stress of 7500 RPM like a 3.48 can? Or more importantly, can the Dart block handle that kind of stress? Because it was my understanding that 5000 to 6000 rpm ment DOUBLE the load on the crank, therfore you would want to avoid long stroke cranks to keep everything centered and happy. Not being flung halfway across the oilpan. And to be completly honest this build is keeping alot of cubes that I did not want in the first place, the original idea was for a 325 (4.155 bore 3 stroke) that would rev to the stars but eh the 377 seemed more streetable, que no.

ljnowell

a properly balanced forged rotating assembly wil survive just fine. and for the money that block better hold up.