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Tricks for bearing cap removal

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Old 06-13-2007, 02:12 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Here is the crank in the motor...
Old 06-13-2007, 02:16 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Looks pretty trashed to me.
Old 06-13-2007, 03:10 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

^^^^^^

Pretty much used up... I sure wouldn't re-use it...
Old 06-13-2007, 05:24 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

I'm doing it against my better judgement alos, but these forged rods can take some abuse. I only want a couple of hundred miles and a few passes with it. I just don't want to pull this engine when I have a 3.4 comming that is getting some 3400 heads (splayed valves, big ports and small heart chambers) put on it. If I'm going to pull the motor, I don't want to waste my time with the 3.1 since it's getting 86'd anyways.

I've already used my AAAPlus once to get home from the track (the night it overheated) and it has been running strong since (when I believe the overheat happened).

Anybody what to take bets weather or not I'll make it?
Old 06-13-2007, 05:25 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

the notches in the bearing caps are they as deep as the other rods?

if not ur wasting ur time the first time u rev it up good specially under boost ur just gonna spin the bearing again.

my advice is if its ok,run some sae 40 or 50 to keep the oil preasure up as high as u can
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oh yeah if ur gonna run it and its gonna blow up make it worthwhile lol, set the boost to 12-14 ish psi instead of 7 lol

Last edited by daves12secV6; 06-13-2007 at 05:27 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-13-2007, 06:55 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

You mean the grooves? The other bearings are in near-perfect condition (especially for 90k miles).

Yeah, I plan on turning up the boost. I'll be using the FMU I got.
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I got some Lucas to add to the oil also to help it last a little longer. Like I said, the car was running fine until I noticed the bearing shavings in the pan (no knock).

Last edited by firstfirebird; 06-13-2007 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-17-2007, 08:31 AM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Just poking my head in here following a link from another thread…

Bearings don’t spin like that from lack of oil or on their own, usually it’s caused by detonation, the impact from the detonation causes the main to hit the bearing surface like the peen end of a ball peen hammer, which will cause the sides of the bearing to tuck in and at that point there is nothing to keep it from spinning. It probably happened when you overheated it, you may have aggrevated it by running it low on oil, but you definitely didn’t cause it that way.
I'm impressed by your retention of information, Mark .
You are absolutly correct about the bearing being from detonation!


How do I know this you ask...

Got the car back together and everything was running sweet, I can't believe the difference after I took the y-pipe off and seald up a few holes. Turbo was spooling nice and early, bottom sounded tight - until I hit the rev limiter and it sounded like a cannon went off **BANG** it started knocking again.

After racking my brain and replaying the events leading up to the bearing failure both times it is apparent both were detonation.

Now comes the problem of tracking down the cause of the problem. Was it the rev-limiter pulling fuel, or am I not giving it enough? I couldn't get the LC1 to work properly (it was sending signal to the ECM, and AFRG) so I welded a new bung in the collector to use the stock NB sensor and was relying on that for AFR's (thinking the LC1 wasn't giving the ECM good info). The car was boosting fine until it bounced 2x of the limiter and the second bounce was the detonation, if these rods weren't forged...

So before I put a new motor, I am going to throw another bearing in it (hopefully they didn't overlap) and get this tune right. It would kill me to have a nice new motor and just trash it because of fueling.

I am just curious to see if it was the same bearing as I have a hunch that whatever cyl detonated is going to be the bad one this time.
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Oh, and by the way, all of the other bearings were in impecable shape for having 90k on the motor .

Last edited by firstfirebird; 06-17-2007 at 08:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 06-19-2007, 03:50 PM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Well, got the pan off and the bearing #4 (the one that spun previously) was fine. Now it is #2. It didn't spin, but wait until I can get a photo up - it was flattened (crank journal is ok, lots better than #4).

Last edited by firstfirebird; 06-19-2007 at 03:53 PM.
Old 06-20-2007, 03:57 AM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Well, while I understand your thought process, if what looks like grooves in that pic of the rod bearing surface are deep enough to feel when you drag a finger nail over them, you’ll wipe out a new bearing almost instantly.

If it was me I’d just suck it up and decide that “it’s time to do the swap” and use the lost time to figure out what was wrong with the LC1 and figure out your tuning issues
Old 06-20-2007, 07:11 AM
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Re: Tricks for bearing cap removal

Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA
Well, while I understand your thought process, if what looks like grooves in that pic of the rod bearing surface are deep enough to feel when you drag a finger nail over them, you’ll wipe out a new bearing almost instantly.
I knew it wasn't going to last, just wanted to get a run in at the track with the 3.1 but it doesn't look like that is going to happen. I already have a buyer and I'm afraid I'll end up ruining the block and won't be able to rebuild it for him.

Originally Posted by 83 Crossfire TA
If it was me I’d just suck it up and decide that “it’s time to do the swap” and use the lost time to figure out what was wrong with the LC1 and figure out your tuning issues
I know what it was this time, when I hit the rev limiter it went lean. I think I'm going to 86 the LC1 and replace it with a PLX. I'm just kind of waiting for the 3.4 to come out of the donor car.
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