Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

well I think I do!.
the water is brown in the radiator and I have a white film on the bottom of the oil filler cap and I can see the white film when I look in the cover at the rockers.
Im not loosing water from my radiator..I checked the level and yes the water is brown looking...not alot but it is.

I need to know what to look for what to check and what to do...and what could be cause this...how is water getting in there? I know I sealed the heads good..I used thread sealant on every bolt...

its a brand new motor with only about 5 miles of road time and about 1.5 hrs of run time.

Im not running antifreeze with my water..I only have water and that Redline water wetter.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Usually coolant gets into oil before the reverse happens. Look for milky oil. Like a chocolate shake. Drain all your oil and check for that. Murky coolant usually just means you're dislodging rust and crap in there. I've heard of people modifying their coolant system to have a filter in it (fuel filter I think), to filter out the junk.

Causes of water in oil:
-no sealant used on cylinder head bolts
-warped head
-warped block deck
-blown head gasket (most common, but is usually caused by #2 or #3).
-incorrect head bolt torquing.

You can drain your oil into a clear container and see if you can watch it settle out. Water on bottom, oil on top.

Sounds like you've got a bit of condensation in there, I wouldn't get too worried about it. Using antifreeze makes things easier, the antifreeze leaves a nice slimy green trail to let you know. Water just evaporates and you're stuck wondering.

Thomas Aquinas

iTrader: (14)

Also check the 4 water passages on the intake. Might have to reseal those. The coolant would leak into the lifter valley. Definitely check/change the oil first.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Avoid a bunch of guessing and shotgun parts replacement if possible.

Pressure-test it. Find the leak before jumping into anything.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

Im at work right now so I'll probably get busted on here....

but I will drain some of the water from the RAD and add some Antifreeze....then let the motor run for a while....I will then take one of my rocker covers off and inspect under there...if I have a leak I should have green in there somewhere....correct?

another person here at work says its probably condensation too....that if I had oil in my water or vise versa I WOULD KNOW IT!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No; because the oil circulating all around in there will flush it out.

Pressure test it.

Easiest way to do that is to drain the block; disconnect the rad & heater hoses, and block them with some pipe caps or the like; let some one of the 4 of them have a fitting you can hook a CONTROLLABLE source of air pressure (air tank through a regulator for example) up to it; put 25 or 30 psi or so in it; and listen for leaky noises. Stick a piece of hose down in the PCV holes to hear noise from under there.

Once you localize the noise, look for bubbles, probe around with the hose, etc. to pinpoint the exact source.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

I dont have anyway of doing something like that.....so now what?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

What part don't you have?

Rent it or buy it. You can get pipe pieces at the hardware store, an air tank at VatoZone or the like.

Gotta be cheaper, quicker, and easier than putting yourself through "maybe it's this, maybe it's that" until you get lucky and change out the right thing.

kenf729

iTrader: (3)

As stated above, I'd first drain the oil, maybe into an old milk jug (clean and dry), see if there water in the oil...if not most likley condensation, are you running a pcv valve setup?

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

yes PVC valve cover setup....one thing though, both my valve covers have like baffles under the grommet holes where I have the pvc and the other that runs to my throttle body...should I remove the baffles so the system is free flowing and not abstructed by the baffles?

Sofa? I really dont understand anything about pressure testing my block to locate a leak.

whats the best way to see if its just condensation in the block? Before I even filled it with all fluids my block sat in my outside garage for atleast a year going thru all the heat and cold cycles of the seasons...and Im pretty sure it sat for atleast 6 months prior to that from the person I bought it from. With no fluids in the motor. I bought he engine completly assembled and I tore it down to the short block and built it up from there with the parts that I wanted.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yea, based on what you've said about the motor, I really don't think it's enough water to be leaking. I'd just leave it for a little while, and keep a close eye on the fluid levels. I think you might be just a little paranoid.
If you've only fired it up a few times then it's pretty normal to have a fair bit of condensation in the motor. You know the vehicles that are leaking water out of the tailpipe on a cold day right? Same deal, you gotta get the engine up to temp and give'r a good run on the highway to clean it up.

No, don't remove the baffles. One side will go to throttle body (intake to motor, with a PCV valve on it), and the other side will be a breather of some type usually. The air goes from underhood air, through the breather, into the crank case, pulls some blowby with it, and goes out the PCV filter, into the throttle body to be burned in the engine. The baffles are fine on both sides.

If it really concerns you, drain it and find out if there's any water in the oil.

Sofakingdom wants you to drain your coolant, and then use a compressor or portable air tank, add 30psi to your block, and listen for the telltale hiss of a leak. This is very similar to a typical coolant pressure test - which is where you just put a hand pump on instead of your rad cap, and pump it up to ~15psi, and watch for leaks. This is usually to find external leaks, pinhole in rad hose, etc. This method might work in your case as well. You can rent a coolant pressure testing kit for free at most chain autoparts stores.

I've never done sofakingdoms method before, so I can't comment on that. Sounds dangerously like 'work' though...

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

ok...what im going to do is leave the oil thats in there for now...its actually the 2nd fill of oil and filter.. I changed the oil after running the motor for an hr when I first cranked it up last week.
I let it run again today for about 20mins. at different RPM's and steady at some cause I was trying to pinpoint some oil leaks...

After shutting it down and looking again under the fill cap..it was white and I looked at the oil and the white is really not mixed well with the oil but swipes of milky white in the oil and some spots and sitting on top on one of the rockers ..I really couldnt see the others without taking the cover off which I didnt do...but there was also some milky white sitting in the crevas's (spelling) of the vavle cover and gaskets...I also pulled the oil dipstick and it was clean..just oil..I think? ..LOL..no white or milky white on the stick at all.

Here's what Im thinking, I put SO much thread sealant on the head bolts and rocker studs..I mean I covered them to where the sealant seeped up the bolt when torqued down that the oil is mixing with that and creating the milky white swipes in the oil...

sound about right?

87tpi

iTrader: (5)

Can you get a pic of it?

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

yeah I can....I'll take the cover off tomorrow and see what it looks like under there.

pmpn

When I had an intake leak after my rebuild my first guess was that the viscosity of the oil on the dipstick was nothing- it pretty much ran right off. Then found milkshake under the vavle covers and in oil after draining. I didn't notice any lost coolant (all water.) I don't consider myself an expert but I think the condensation idea is a laugh, just IMHO. My point: if you had water in your oil it should be completely obvious. If in any doubt that your oil is contaminated STOP running the engine and drain the oil.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

so what your saying is I probably got water in it? Im trying to talk myself out of thinking I theres water in there....its just SWIPES of white in the oil like I described.....if there was water would it be COMPLETLY mixed with the oil? and ALL the oil would be milky white?

Stevo

iTrader: (45)

Why dont you drain your oil.....?

Is it even worth chancing something like this? Drain it refill it and see how your doing. Get it in a clear container and let it sit out, that way youll at least know how much water got in there...

A pressure test is very simple stuff. If you rebuilt the motor yourself you should be able to perform a few simple test on it...

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

ok heres the pictures...stuff is not mixed with my oil at all.....is very thick and real sticky...when in my fingers was real sticky and started to dry up.....Im pretty sure its the thread sealant cause its the same color and texture....like I said I gooped that chit all over every bolt on the heads...

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

hahah, gross that looks like....gross...
It's a little too foamy to be what i'd think is sealant, that stuff usually won't mix with anything...

But you seem pretty sure of it, so you might as well go with it. Flush out the oil, maybe run some 1/2 diesel 1/2 oil in it for a few minutes, then drain that and fill it up with normal oil and keep on truckin.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

well you can see in the cover that its really not mixed with anything, that stuff is on the top of the cover and would have run down..its pretty thick and tacky...of course its gotta mix a little with the oil therefore giving what you call that foamy look. .....if it was water/oil it wouldnt start to dry tacky on my fingers while I was swirling it around....I mean its not as if its straight sealant, its the runoff excess that came off the bolts. I can tell by looking at that one bolt that is pictured that some of it has come off and you can se that little dab right by the bolt.....so you think I should run some of that motor flush stuff in it? now? being a new motor will that hurt it in any way? what about "break-in"

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

whoops....I did forget to smell the stuff to see what odor it gave off....alls I did was wipe it all up and put the cover back on.

SpitotRs305

jeez i get excited when i am working on my engine but not that excited...

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

..I can see how you would read that..

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Is it a flat tappet cam? Has that been broken in? (weird, the cam isn't mentioned in your sig...?)

oh, re-read your info... Yea, i'd flush it, that stuff will gum up the motor like crazy. Engine flush, diesel, whatever you like. Just idle it, rev it up a few times, maybe drive it around the block, then drain it and put in real oil. Don't run straight diesel, run it mixed with oil, or some "engine flush" stuff (probably same thing).
I wouldn't want to be seating the rings with that gunk in there, i'd be worried it'd clog up a passage, or coat a bearing or something. I'd want to flush it out good, then go run the thing good and hard to seat the rings.

87IROCZ350TPI

HAHAHA, ...nasty!