Ok, so I have a car that Im having trouble with. It is a 1984 z28 camaro. This car has been with me since I was 16, it was my first car. Ive put new headers, a new fuel pump, a new water pump, a new power steering pump, a new starter, a new timing chain and sprockett, flowmaster exhaust, various sensors here and there, have done general maitenance and all the good stuff. I also had the tranny rebuilt with a shift kit using modern corvette internals.....that I did not do myself but all the other I did.
So by no means am I a mechanical reject. That car has not seen the shop but 2 times, for tires and the tranny rebuild.....I figure forget the shops I like jumping in and figureing @&$% out myself. BUT I CANNOT FIGURE OUT THIS VACUUM @*#&!!!!!!
I have a 2001 SS now that Ive done a few things to, I drive it every day but the z28 is cool to keep around for @*&#! and giggles. But thats besides the point.

In a nut shell heres whats up.

84 z28 camaro........carb craps out.......I buy one thats close enough........a remanufacturered rochester 4bbl from a buddy......its for an 87 5.0......

No real problems with interchangeability..........get to the vacuum lines..................$#^% hits the fan.............

This car has no emissions components anymore......none at all.........not a damn thing...........I bought it in kentucky and found out the hard way when I got home..........
Billy Bob corn cob had ripped them all out and plugged all the hoses but they were all laying in place, ya know so it looked cosmetically "AIR SAFE"....but whatever...........heres my main question after all that babble.................................................................


Im saying **** on all the lines I ripped them all out............. they had no function anyhow...........i figure i will just cap them at the carb rather than the ends of the hoses............. what in gods world do i NEED TO HAVE UNCAPPED OR HOOKED UP OR WHATEVER..........???????.........as of right now ive got plugs on all the vacuum inlets on the carb..............i hate vacuum, i realy do.....im not the only one i know......someone help..............the car runs like hell....really.....just horrible..........

thanks


ALL THAT I WANT IN LIFE RIGHT NOW IS FOR SOMEONE TO TELL ME WHAT VACUUM I NEED TO HAVE HOOKED UP FOR SMOOTH OPERATING AND....... IM CAPPING THE REST

 

You need vacuum to the MAP sensor, and to the accumulator canister for the HVAC controls. To the cruise if it's still there (most of those hilljack "clean up the engine bay" type hicks just hack that out too...). That's about it.

The car will at least work, if not completely right, without the EGR, the EFE, the AIR, or the evaporative canister hooked up. Those items are about 90% of the total vacuum lines in there.

 

Welcome Aboard!

A couple of answers will help a lot in reaching a solution.

1. What, exactly, did "Mr. Hill" remove, and what is left? Is there an EVAP canister? Are the TVS units still in/on the intake? Is there a heat riser valve on the end of the RH exhaust manifold? Is there a stock air cleaner installed?
2. What is the Alpha-Code for the engine? There should be a label affixed to either the top of the radiator or underside of the hood with a three-letter code in boldface type, such as "DTW" or something like that. There may also be a matching label on the air cleaner housing. Lacking the label information, what is the 8th character if the VIN?
3. Was the replacement carburetor an E4ME type? That type will have an electrical connector for the mixture control solenoid and another for the throttle position sensor.
4. Does the "Check Engine" light remain on after the engine is running?

Having those bits of information will help to get a solution.

 

Thanks for the input guys. ...... Heres where im at now.
to answer vaders Questions......

1. he removed air tubes i know that. there is a canister at the fron of the compartment....i believe youre referring to the charcoal canister. tvs i have no clue what that is, and there is nothing on the manifolds. they are heddmen hedders.

2. its a g code engine

3. it is an e4me and there are two electrical connections.

4. check engine light had to have been bypassed. it has never came on.

NOW HERES MY DELIMA. THE CAR WAS RUNNING JUST FINE WITH ALL OF THE RIGGED VACUUM TUBES. THINGS HAD BEEN PLUGGED AND CUT AND BYPASSED AND TURNED TWISTED PULLED POKED AND FARTED ON. AND THE DAMN THING PASSED EMISSIONS WITH FLYING COLORS EVERY TIME. SO WHEN I GO TO PUT THIS NEW CARB ON IM FIGUREING ILL JUAT FIGURE OUT A WAY TO GET THE VACUUM RIGHT WITHOUT ALL THIS CRAP HOOKED UP. I FIGURED ITS AN OLD 305 ILL JUST MAKE IT HAPPEN. IM LOOKING TO SELL THE CAR SOON ANYWAY. BUT I GOT THE CARB ON THERE STARTED IT UP AND ITS IDLE JUST WAS REDECULOUS IT WOULD REV TO ABOUT 4500 AND THEN DIE......SO I PLUGGED ALL THE VACUUM CONNECTIONS ON THE CARB AND IT SEEMED TO BE IDLING FINE.... JUST A LTIILE HIGH......I ADJUSTED THE TIMING BACK TO 8 BTDC......I THEN GOT AN IDLE OF ABOUT 1100....IT WAS A LITTLE HIGH FOR MY LIKINGS BUT I FIGURED I COULD LIVE WITH IT......SO I THEN DECIDED TO TEST DRIVE IT.....AT FIRST I WAS HAPPY THINKING WOW.......THIS THING RUNS BETTER THAN IT EVER HAD!!!.......THEN I GET ON THE MAIN ROAD AND GIVE IT A LITTLE GAS.....IT MISSED AND SPUTTED AND BLEW SMOKE OUT THE BACK SOMETHIN TERRIBLE.....THEN IT STARTED MESSING WITH ME REAL BAD.........IT WOULD NOT COME BACK TO EARTH AFTER ALL THAT........THE DAMN THING WOULD NOT DROP TO IDLE UPON LETTING OFF THE GAS......IT WAS PUMMELING THE GAS STILL AND THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT SO STOP WAS HARD BREAKING....AND EVEN THEN IT FELT LIKE I WAS DOWNSHIFTING MY SS........THE DAMN THING WAS JUST STILL TRYING TO GO WHEN I DIDNT WANT IT TO ......SO PUT IT IN PARK AND VVVVVVVVRRRRRRRRROOOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMMMMM.............SO I SAID SCREW IT AND CAME INSIDE..............IM GONNA TRY PLAYING WITH IT SOME MORE BUT THERES GOTTA BE A WAY TO JUST SAY HEY..........A 305 NO EMMISIONS COMPONENTS AND A CARB........JUST A PLANE JANE CARB AND SIMPLE MOTOR VACUUM.........AND THIS IS ALL YOU NEED TO HOOK UP AND HERES WHERE.......SEE I DONT DO CARBS SO I DONT KNOW IF THE TOP INLETS FOR VACUUM ARE DIFFERENT FROM THE BOTTOM....ITS JUST A CLUSTER****........IM GONNA TRY TRACKING DOWN SOFAS IDEAS AND SEE IF THAT GETS ME ANYWHERE............................
THANKS GUYS

 

a picture of your carb and engine would realy help. i am sending a Private Message to a guy on my local car club sit www.Cascadecrew.org who has done the same thing, i bet he can help.

 

An '84 305 "G" should have had a vacuum routing similar to this:



A "TVS" is a Temperature/Vacuum Switch, used to port vacuum to a device at a predetermined coolant temperature. I was wondering if they (it) are still mounted to the intake manifold front coolant crossover or to the thermostat housing.

Since the exhaust manifolds have been replaced with headers, there's a good bet that the EFE (heat riser valve) no longer exists in the exhaust. The Air Injection System is evidently gone also, which is no big loss. That eliminates the need for the TVS which is used for both the air management valve and EFE system heat riser valve in the exhaust.

If the EVAP (charcoal) canister is still intact, you might as well use it. It's a completely passive system, and will only help improve fuel mileage and control tank pressure in warmer weather. It costs no power to operate, and doesn't rob peak power output.

Those changes would make the system vacuum routing look more like the second (attached) image.

 

THANKS GUYS, I JUMPED IN AND FIGURED IT OUT......TURNS OUT THERE WAS A VACUUM DIAGRAM IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT....... I LOOKED AT WHAT I HAD AND JUST WENT OFF OF THAT THE THE MAP SENSOR WAS COMPLETELY DISCONNECTED AND THE PCV VALVE WAS SEEMING TO BE THE MAIN PROBLEM.......I JUST TOOK ONE STRAIGHT CONNECTION FROM THE PCV VALVE TO THE LOWER END OF THE CARB THEN I TOOK THE MAP SENSOR AND PLUGGED THAT IN THE REAR OF THE CARB........THEN I RAN A STRAIGHT LINE FROM THE CANISTER TO THE FRONT OF THE CARB.....I DID SOME READIG AND FIGURED OUT FROM THE DIAGRAM THAT THOSE WHEN STRAIGHT BACK TO THE FUEL TANK SO THAT WOULD EXPLAIN MY **** FREAKING OUT ON ME..........IT ALSO TURNS OUT THAT THE IDLE SCREWS WERE WAAAAAAYYYY RICH........SO I BACKED THEM OFF AND IT SEEMS TO IDLE FINE.....IVE GOT IT IN DRIVE RIGHT ABOUT 700 RPMS. ALSO I DID FIGURE OUT THAT WHEN CHANGING THOSE CARBS THERE WAS A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE IN THE AMMOUNT OF SPACE ALOTED FOR THE THROTTLE LINKAGE IT WAS TOO TIGHT AND PUTTIN PRESSURE ON THE PLUNGER CAUSING IT TO IDLE WAY WAY WAY HIGH........SO I TOOK A BASTARD FILE TO THE TANG AND FIXED THAT PROBLEM RATHER THAN RELOCATING THE WHOLE LINKAGE...........SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM SOLVED BOYS..........THANKS FOR THE IDEAS...................THE ONLY THING IVE GOT TO SAY IS WAY TO GO FOR FUEL INJECTION!

 

glad you got it working again.

 

OK SO NOW IVE HIT ANOTHER PAIN IN THE ***..........IM 95 PERCENT POSITIVE THAT THE VACUUM LINES ARE ALL GOOD.........BUT AT HIGH RPMS (UNDER FULL THROTTLE) THE DAMN THINGS MISSES I KNOW IVE GOT THE TIMING DIALED IN RIGHT......AT FIRST I THOUGHT WELL LET ME ADVANCE IT.....THEN IT WOULD DIESEL LIKE THER WASNT GONNA BE A TOMORROW........SO I TOOK IT BACK DOWN........I THINK THE CARB AND VACUUM ARE ALL FUNCTIONING LIKE THEY SHOULD BUT I THINK I MIGHT JUST REPLACE THE SPARK PLUGS AND SEE WHERE THAT GETS ME........IM OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS. I AM NOT SO SURE ITS THE SPARK PLUGS BECAUSE THEY WERE FINE BEFORE I MESSED WITH PUTTING THE NEW CARB ON......I MEAN BEFORE THE CAR DIDNT RUN LIKE IT SHOULD BUT AT LEAST IT DIDNT HIT 4500 RPMS AND SPIT............ I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE IT COULD BE........I THINK I MIGHT PUT SOME MID GRADE GAS IN IT AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES..BUT I KNOW IT SHOULDNT STALL OR MISFIRE LIKE THAT.........JUST ONE MORE PROBLEM TO GET FIXED..

IVE ELIMINATED THESE POSSIBILITIES THUS FAR FOR MISFIRE/STALL UNDER FULL THROTTLE HIGH RPMS.

INCORRECT TIMING
VACUUM LEAK

IM OPEN FOR IDEAS........

 

if it's a 305 it could very well be blown up! or a bad head gasket or the carb you got is ****.

 

Im pretty sure that ive got my problem almost taken care of... i got the vacuum right and and everything is good.......the secondaries are opening and its all gravy...........

i was suprised at the turnout of this project.....this car with its headers and exhaust mixed with the shift kit and this new carb runs like a bat out of hell. it runs better than it ever had before.......but its still a 305.......the only thing i cant figure out is why it falls on its nose at high rpms under full throttle 4000-4500. half throttle exceleration is great and normal driving is perfect...but when i mash it....it mashes me.......

it will downshift like it should and rap out until about 4500 rpms. then it will fall on its face and it seems like it tries to correct but cant...

ive got this running through my head......................its either bad plugs, fuel pump, fuel filter or distributor..... all of which had been replaced.

im thinking that it might just be sucking too much air and my fuel system cant keep up....so what im gonna do is get a regulator and check the pressure.....then if that dont work ill try replacing the plug wires..... i did have to make some fuel line modifications to convert to a front fuel inlet.
i gues it could be possible that the diameter hose i am using is too small. or i just need to break down and get a fatty fuel pump, then again it could be crankin too much fuel for the carb to take, if that were the case the regulator will take care of that problem.

does any body have any suggestions on where i should start or what they think might be the best course of action??....or does anybody want to buy a car ....haha