Do's and Dont's with 383
02-28-2007, 06:42 AM
#1
Do's and Dont's with 383
Hello all. I have a L98 that I'm taking to get a bore/hone, surface milling, cam bearings, and a stroker clearance. I'm just wondering what are the do's and dont's when I am building this motor?
I'm going with the Vortec heads. Going to grind down the valve guides so I can clear a bigger cam and quite possibly have the heads decked. Thats really all I plan to do with them.
What I'm asking here is if you had built a 383 stroker like I am about to, what would you take back?
I'm not sure what kind of cam or carb I am going to use, but I know I want a 12 sec street car.
The car itself has a 3.73 and a 700 trans.
So if any of you can give me some advice on building this motor with certain parts to make her really run hard, I'd like to hear them.
thank you
I'm going with the Vortec heads. Going to grind down the valve guides so I can clear a bigger cam and quite possibly have the heads decked. Thats really all I plan to do with them.
What I'm asking here is if you had built a 383 stroker like I am about to, what would you take back?
I'm not sure what kind of cam or carb I am going to use, but I know I want a 12 sec street car.
The car itself has a 3.73 and a 700 trans.
So if any of you can give me some advice on building this motor with certain parts to make her really run hard, I'd like to hear them.
thank you
02-28-2007, 09:10 AM
#3
02-28-2007, 10:44 AM
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Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Don't assemble anything without checking all the clearances at every step.
02-28-2007, 08:15 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Think very carefully about your camshaft choice. Be sure to measure everything you can while building it (it's harder to measure it when it's together 
). Pay attention to your quench, and ring gap. None of this is stroker specific, but it's worth doing.
). Pay attention to your quench, and ring gap. None of this is stroker specific, but it's worth doing.
02-28-2007, 09:47 PM
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
12's shouldn't be hard with the right setup. I built a vortec headed 383 for a customer last year that runs 11.80's in a 3500# TA. 6" rods, 10.7:1, stock vortecs with Manley valves and valve job, Air Gap intake, 750 DP, eagle crank and H beam rods, forged flat tops with metric rings, Comp 236/242. It made 470 at the flywheel. Should get you in the 12's pretty easy.
02-28-2007, 09:50 PM
#7
12's shouldn't be hard with the right setup. I built a vortec headed 383 for a customer last year that runs 11.80's in a 3500# TA. 6" rods, 10.7:1, stock vortecs with Manley valves and valve job, Air Gap intake, 750 DP, eagle crank and H beam rods, forged flat tops with metric rings, Comp 236/242. It made 470 at the flywheel. Should get you in the 12's pretty easy.
470-? freaking sick!I have a Edelbrock Performer intake. Not sure on a carb or cam still. Def roller cam though
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03-01-2007, 09:22 AM
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Keep in mind that's flywheel HP so it's going to be less than 400 at the wheels. As long as you choose the right combination of parts and put it all together properly you should have no problem getting that thing in the 12's. 11's is more like it 
Hope you plan on building a trans Mine lasted 2 passes and a couple hundred street miles before I cooked it with only 425 fwhp.
Hope you plan on building a trans Mine lasted 2 passes and a couple hundred street miles before I cooked it with only 425 fwhp. 
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