drex

iTrader: (1)

i had all those questions with the lifter and i appreciate the help...i might as well do the cam while im in there...fyi the one lifter i said was moving is actually slightly shorter than all the rest... and then all the lifters were surprisingly clean on the cam contact area except ONE so im guessing the cam doesnt look much better... now i might as well take on the project of a new cam with lifters
i have a old 350 that i dont know much about its pretty fresh maybe 20k on rebuild its the old style crank and doesnt have holes in the valley for the roller spider.. dip is on the drivers side...
i am pretty sure i have the camel hump heads? i was told by the previous owner they were fuelies? i dont know what either mean or if they are the same thing or not..they dont have any accessory bolt holes in them...
i will get all the numbers off the heads tonight... and i will look for the block numbers also...
so i need a cam ...hydraulic is im guessing the best bet... i dont care about gas mileage and its a stick shift... fast as possible of course..what brand is best and lift/duration?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

stick shift? 3.42 rear gears?
whoa whoa, torker 2 intake, and edelbrock 600cfm carb? Man, i'd highly recommend you upgrade those two.

Would you be willing to use a solid flat tappet cam? I'm pretty sure those fuelie heads work well with a long duration solid flat tappet. It'd be OLD SCHOOL rumble.

I'm hoping you've got upgraded valve seats on the fuelie heads, and i'm guessing in the neighborhood of 9.5:1 CR? Who knows I guess eh?

I'd do something in the range of comp cams xe274, or lunati's voodoo 60104. Or something in that neighborhood, but maybe with a 108 LSA. Those would kick some tail right there. If you're willing to use polylocks, and check your lash every now and again (and enjoy tweaking and fiddling) i'd recommend a solid cam. You can move your powerband a bit by adjusting your lash too eh?
I'd go a bit bigger if you went solid, like a 280ish advertised duration. Split pattern still, I know straight pattern cams were the norm for those old fuelies, but I think that's before they invented the split pattern, not like they actually flowed well enough on the exhaust to make it worth while

drex

iTrader: (1)

i know the edelbrock 600 is garbage...but the torker is also? i have a performer rpm but figured the torker was better? hmmm... well eventually i want a holley dp...4150 is tried and true i know... but im on a budget... and this is what i got... the heads are 8782461 and i googled them... double camel humps.... and i might have the matching block under them still gotta get those numbers... motor might be worth more to someone else... maybe a cam that would work now and still work with better intake/carb.. its got headers... i would do a solid cam and adjust it i wouldnt care... think it would really be better?

Apeiron

The Torker II is probably the worst intake available on the market today.

drex

iTrader: (1)

the performer rpm is better? if the heads and motor match should i just try and sell it off? how much would it be worth? double camel humps suck i hear but worth money to some restorers? and the block is from the same period?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I doubt you'd get a whole lot for it. The heads maybe a bit, but the block probably not.

Yes, definately use the performer RPM.

If it's not burning much oil and has decent compression, might as well leave well enough alone - unless you want to build up a short block.
Look at solid flat tappet cams listed for a 2400-6000RPM power band sorta thing.
Think around the xe274s, and lunati's fast ramp rate in the 60104 range. I think Crane has some nice solids too. Think 108 LSA if possible (drool).

drex

iTrader: (1)

whats 108 LSA mean? and i see the voodoo 60104( i can handle that lift on stock block and heads?)... but dont see the comp cams one.. and what are poly locks... i have crane energizer roller tip rockers and guideplates with locking adjusting nuts on the heads already...

drex

iTrader: (1)

found the comp and voodoo but both hydraulic right? pick a solid.. lunati has the smallest solid at 280/290 duration and lift of .501/.508 3000-6500 thats number 40111...crane has a 280/288 with lift of .518"/.536" but 3400 to 6800 ..and whats 108 lsa mean still?and poly locks? why do some say advertised duratrion and some say duration at .050"?

SpitotRs305

LSA stands for lobe seperation angle it is used to describe the angle between the intake and exhaust lobe centerline the closer to 100 the angle is the more rough the idle closer to 114-117 the smoother it is has to do with booth intake and exhaust valves being open at the same time but dont qoute me on that someone else will probably say something different

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yep, spitot has it right basically. I'll attach my sig, if you want to read a primer on camshafts, click the link.

Poly locks are the locking adjustment nuts that you have, poly-lock is a brand or trade name.
Advertised is... ok ok, i'm not going to go into the explanation, read my link, it's all in there.
Look at duration @.050, since advertised is going to be measured with the lash in it, and lash is different for different cams so it's really weird to compare. Look at a solid in the 230-235 intake duration range.

Try to find a compxe274S.

I forget which companys make cams on a 108LSA. Comp and crane and lunati typically don't. At least not for their ultra fast ramp rate camps, those are on 110 LSA's. I'm a little busy right now, maybe someone else will chime in with a few part #'s.

drex

iTrader: (1)

thanks everyone should i just call comp or crane?

drex

iTrader: (1)

ok im startin to understand... thanks everyone..
i am goin with a solid... i have 1.6 rockers... in the jegs, is gross lift measured with 1.5's or without rockers.. or will i be higher? and what can my setup flow well with... i can upgrade the carb and maybe a better intake than the rpm but ill do it little by little so i want something to be good for it all.. ill keep it all motor tho... also whose makin these 108lsa's anyone know..

SpitotRs305

i think a 108lsa might be a little much for the street... but it probably depends on your driving style

drex

iTrader: (1)

easier to find a 110 anyway...comp has many..lunati 280/290 .501/.508 at 110 lsa.... or 280/288 .518/.536 at 110 lsa am i on the right track...yes its a street car with some gtech runs everyonce in a while but need something that sounds good and moves

SpitotRs305

you might get away with those might want more gear and headers if you dont have them i would go a little more conservitive with
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...8&autoview=sku

you also should look at upgrading your carb to a holley 750 or if you like edelbrock then one of their 750s would definetly help with power

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That's a roller cam spitot. He can't use it.

SpitotRs305

i thought the L98 was a roller block?
well i thought those engines went roller too in 1987

Apeiron

They did, but he's got a pre-87 block.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yes, they were - but in his first post he says he has an old late '60s 350. Camel hump heads, etc. So yea, flat tappet for him.

SpitotRs305

ah i see it now
well take a look at this cam hydrualic flat tappet
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...2&autoview=sku
i thinik it would be a decent choice...and it will work with your engine...always good

drex

iTrader: (1)

pick a solid flat tappet... and i have 1.6 so it will be slightly larger... what is the most the setup will handle?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

That's just a magnum 270. That'd be fairly mild. It's like a compxe268, but with a straight pattern and less lift.

look at the XS274S.
274/280 advertised, 236/242 @.050. .501/.510" lift. That uses a .016" lash, so the lift is .016" less than I just showed. Shows a 2000-6400RPM powerband, uses a 110LSA. Should be streetable, but you'll know you've got an aggressive solid in it.
You'd need premium valve springs, and maybe offset locks to get the retainer to guide boss clearance - but this would work amazingly well.
The XE274S is exactly the same but with a 4/7 firing order swap. If the price is similar (ie, within $20) i'd do that. If it's much more than i'd get the normal one.

if you want to go wilder, look at:

263MAS-6 - which has a 106 LSA. 236/240, but only 263/267 advertised.

Or look at the 266XOS - I think this is a new design. another 236/242 @.050, 266/276 advertised. (Advertised is measured at lash, so .016" vs the .006" of a hydraulic. So this is pretty comparable to the XS274 I'd think)
108 LSA. .016/.018" lash. Shows 2200/6000RPM powerband. I would choose either this, or the first one I mentioned. This would be a bit peakier due to the 108LSA, so if you've got a close ratio trans, and you can keep it in it's powerband, this would go the fastest. Very rumbly and aggressive.

drex

iTrader: (1)

i like the xe 274s... i have new springs i gotta see if the 275.00 price includes lifters... and 4to 7 firing swap is better? what about locks and guide bosses?

drex

iTrader: (1)

my springs haver a inside springf and a outside spring witha red rubber bushing above the inside spring???

Apeiron

The inside "spring" might not be a spring at all, but a vibration damper.

drex

iTrader: (1)

i guess comp will give you better prices over the phone... 333.00 with lifters for the xe274s with 4/7 swap.... is this the one???

Apeiron

You don't really need the 4/7 firing swap.

drex

iTrader: (1)

would you lean more towards the 108lsa one that sonix put on the bottom of his post ap?

Apeiron

I don't know. I wouldn't be using a solid lifter, but that's just me.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

The XS274S - $123 alone, $230 with lifters - CCA-12-677-4
The 4/7 swap costs an extra $100, so I wouldn't bother.

The last one I mentioned, the 266XOS, is CCA-12-646-5 $163 at summit.