redrocket87

Hey guys, i hope someone can help me build this, I have a 350 block that i'm changing into a 383 for my 87 RS, I have never done one before so i hope you can steer me in the right direction as far as what will work very well together, keeping in mind i have a budget. I have looked at jegs, and seen the brodix combo kit that comes with heads, and a intake. But i have no idea what cam to match or anything else, I also need a decent 383 kit that could handle a supercharger. Please help me assemble a good engine for track use, I'm trying to achieve around 500 horse. thank you in advance for your help.

ghotachevy

iTrader: (1)

u know it needs to b clearanced right

F-BIRD'88

if you are on a budget you want to spend the money you got to get the most bang for the buck.
Finding low compression blower pistons for a 383 is tuff.

Put the $$$ you would (waste) from building a 383 into building a better, strong blower friendly 350 that can handle more boost on pump gas. you'll make more horsepower and go faster for less $$$ in the end.

TRW/Speed-Pro has off the shelf 22cc dished FORGED turbo/supercharger pistons for a 350. Just right for a supercharger project. Summit # TRW-L2441F30
For a non intercooled blower like the 6-71 8-71 roots etc you want a low low 7.5:1 compression ratio. You can achieve this with the above pistons and 80cc heads on a 350. This low compression ratio will allow much more boost with much less ignition retard than a higher compression ratio and make more power safely on pump gas than say a 8.5 or 9:1 cr with less boost and required timing retard under boost. You can easily exceed 500hp reliably on pump gas with a moderatly-aggressive hyd cam and half decent heads (Brodix is good). (more like 550 to 600BHP) There is lots of meat around the as-cast combustion chambers on Brodix heads to open them up to 80cc. No problem there. I would buy the large chamber 72cc version of the Brodix IK200 head and modify the chamber to 80cc. Another very good choice is the RHS Pro Action 200cc head (72cc)
You may be able to custom order these heads from the factory with a CNC machined 80cc combustion chamber as an option. Someting to check on.
Don;t worry you won;t be the only one asking.
Build a blower friendly low compression 355ci that can run more boost with little or no spark retard and you'll make more power than a 383.
For the cam, use Crane cams #113801 if you like a mild idle. or Crane cams #114051 If you want a rough idle and max street power. both these will like 1.6 ratio intake rocker arms. These are trouble free hyd flat tappet cams that will work very well with a blower on the street. There are simular hyd roller cams. But its not nessessary. The blower will make all the power you can handle when set up right.
Set up the pulley drive ratio to get a good 12lbs max boost.
If say at the track you want maximum power and will run 110 octane race gas you can run more boost and go faster (16 to 20LBS boost 700+HP) simply by swapping blower pulleys. Blower motors typically need a little larger top ring end gaps cause the motor makes so much power (heat load)
Build the motor as described including deshrouding the combustions chambers to 80cc (its not as hard as it sounds) and "0 Deck" the block. Optimizing piston to head quench clearance.
maximum detonation tolerance under boost.
Finished cr will be 7.63:1 using a felpro .039" head gasket. All this is $$$worth way more$$$ than you'll get from a 383.

You can tell 'em its a 383 or what ever you want.
No body is going to doubt ya when they see the car go.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

Proven 525HP 383, pump gas that I built for a customer about 2 years ago.

Blueprinted and clearanced block. Line honed, decked, bored, torque plate honed.
Eagle forged crank,
Eagle 6" H-Beam rods, ARP 2000 bolts
Forged flat top pistons, metric rings
AFR CNC'd 195 heads
RPM air gap intake
Comp 236/242* cam
Worked 650 DP carb

It made 525 fwhp and runs 11.20's @ 120 in a 3200# nova with a TH400 and a dana 60 rear on radials.

If you want to drive it on the street and keep it n/a a 383 is a better way to go. You'll keep the power band lower so you wont have to twist it to 7000RPM. Stick with a smaller intake runner and a dual plane intake to keep the torque for the street and drivability. Or you can always put a blower on a 383

If you plan on a blower, build the motor for it. Don't build a motor to run n/a then add boost. The combination will be totally wrong.

Keep in mind too that if you plan on making 500hp you're going to have to build the car to take it. You'll need a trans that will hold up, a rear that wont come apart, tires to hook it, SFC's, and a suspension to get the power to the ground and keep it straight. With that much power plan on a roll bar too if you plan to take it to the track. You're also looking at upgrading the entire fuel system from the pump forward and the ignition system too.

redrocket87

What can i expect to pay to build a motor like this?

F-BIRD'88

Jim Oddy charges $14,000 for his 700+hp pump gas supercharged small block. Includes dyno testing tune up etc etc. He's the best.
http://www.oddysracingengines.com/index.html

The motor I discribed to you is the basic budget supercharged "pump gas" 350SBC that Oddy builds. It's his combo. The "$14,000" motor has a lot more hard core internals but this is how you build a budget 600hp street motor.
If you are serious, and want to know more, contact their shop. they are in Elma, NY. outside Buffalo. They build Supercharged race, marine, street motors for people all over the US, Canada and parts unknown.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

Jim doesn't own the shop anymore. He sold it a little while ago. Their sponsorship with Summit was up and he's busy with Fluidampr with his son Dan. Sold the race team and all. From what he told me, the guy that bought it has been working for him for 25 years so the quality of the work should stay the same. Their 'street' 383 starts at $14000 and worth every penny.

F-BIRD'88

Heard he has retired from racing. Wasn't aware he sold his shop in Elma.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

Said he had enough.

F-BIRD'88

Usually what they do is dyno your motor and show you what it's capable of power wise. Then de-tune it and re-dyno test based on your chassis and experience level. That way you won't hurt it, or yourself.....