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Old 02-04-2007 | 11:00 PM
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brians88gta's Avatar
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From: nashville tn
Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:27 borg warner 9 bolt
HELP

i have 2500 bucks what would be the best bang for the buck im spendin all of it on the car
Old 02-05-2007 | 10:10 AM
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Best bang for the buck in terms of what? Appearance? Power? Suspension? Gotta be more specific. Go out and make a few shopping lists and post back with a couple different options. These threads pop up everyday, noone is going to help you unless you do some sort of homework first. Either that or just run a search.
Old 02-05-2007 | 10:49 AM
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From: nashville tn
Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:27 borg warner 9 bolt
i want performance i just put in a 350 so i need comp and injectors and a maf sensor headers and cat back what would go with these items to make the most power. i have to out run a dodge 1/2 ton hemi with all mods
Old 02-05-2007 | 12:55 PM
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From: Victoria BC Canada
Car: 87 Camaro IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
get a nos kit...youll be in the 12's with a good 100 shot of nos. and its pretty cheap too. did you put forged pistons in your engine? mayb you can go w/ a 150 shot 2 stage...the dodge would have no chance...

im actually supprised that your even worried, ive seen built up trucks w/ all the mods and they still run the high 15's. if you put exhaust and get some aftermarket intake runners and new injectors, youll have money left over for the nos. you dont need to upgrade your computer unless your car previously had a 305 in it.

what cam did you put on your 350? what kinda heads? or is it a stock L98?

Last edited by Gramps; 02-05-2007 at 12:56 PM. Reason: rockstar energy drinks are da bomb
Old 02-05-2007 | 03:20 PM
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Those half tons run low-mid 14's stock. My buddies dad has one, and for being as hefty as they are, man they can run.


But anyhow, do you not have the computer system yet for the TPI system, and you need to get them, or are you saying you want to get an aftermarket computer/MAF/injectors? Aftermarket in that respect is not a smart move, unless you are doing it to make the system compatible with a radical cam. Bigger injectors and aftermarket MAF sensors wont do much on their own.

I would stick with the simple bolt ons. Do a header back system for sure, one of the best bangs for the buck, in terms of performance, AND fun factor (noise). Then go ahead and get some SLP runners and an Edelbrock base, and look up how to port it all out for maximum gains. That will make you more powerful in the higher rpms for sure. Then theres about 100 ways you can rig up a better intake box setup, whether it be a custom cold air, or enlarging of the stock fork box. Also, run a search for "throttle body bypass" to get a tip on how to free up a cool 5hp for pennies.

If you really wanna work the top end, look into a set of cheap iron heads. GM has new Vortecs that are about $350 a head assembled (if you do get vortecs you are going to have to get a vortec style intake manifold..this is important!) You can get them for next to nothing now, with the market for aluminum heads getting as saturated as it is. I remember not even a year ago, the cheapest aluminums you could buy were $1100 dollars, and now they run for $800+.

Weight reduction is also an option. The spare tire and jack are a good 50lbs of weight, and, depending on where you live, you can junk your smog system which not only drops a bit of weight, but it clears up your engine bay like you wouldnt believe. Here in NJ, I still passed the sniffer test (with flying colors I might add) with all of the smog crap taken out.

Lets see, conversion to manual steering drops weight, and parasitic engine drag, at the cost of needing more muscle to turn the car. Also, if you dont care for A/C, that can come out, which will probably drop the most weight/clutter, but you are either going to have to fab up the heater box to run the heat still, or get an AC delete box. With this, you will have to buy an AC delete pulley, which is a plain jane pulley that goes where the Compressor went, so that you can still get resistance on the tensioner. They run about $50.

Last edited by GuitarJunki17; 02-05-2007 at 03:29 PM.
Old 02-05-2007 | 07:12 PM
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From: nashville tn
Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 HSR
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 3:27 borg warner 9 bolt
its a stock L98 the car was origanaly a 305 car im still runin the 19# injectors and computer but i have a bad maf sensor every thing else is origanal equipment the truck ran a 9.2 8th mile without new tc i have also changed the knock sensor and done a 160 sta with a throttle body bypass as wellas the new fan switch and fuel pump

Last edited by brians88gta; 02-05-2007 at 07:15 PM.




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