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Engine build plan. What do you think.

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Old 12-27-2006, 09:28 PM
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Car: 89 IROC/05 RX8
Engine: LS1/LS1
Transmission: T56/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 GM/3.55 8.8
Engine build plan. What do you think.

Hey everyone, im going to build up a budget engine over the summer.

This is what i have come up with so far.

Long Block:
Federal Mongul Engine Rebuild kit (hyperneutectic flat top pistons)
Brodix IK180 Aluminum Assembled Cylinder Heads
Summit SFI Harmonic damper
LT4 Hotcam
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers
ARP Main Bolt Kit
ARP Rod bolt kit


Induction:
Edelbrock High flow TPI Base
SLP High Flow runners
Thunder Racing Air foil
Port plenum

Exhaust
SLP 1 3/4" Shorty headers and Y-pipe
Pypes 3" Cat back

Transmission:
Stage 2 Shift Kit.
Need reccomendations on torque converter. This car is a daily driver.

The engine will retain stock bores, as i cant afford to have it bored. Stock stroke is retained.

The heads are 180cc intake, and 64cc chambers which should get me around 9.35:1 compression.

Let me know what you think. and if theres anything i should change.

Sheldon


Old 12-27-2006, 10:08 PM
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Car: '89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: WAS 350 - now L92 (alum. 378/6.2L)
Transmission: WAS 700R4, now a built T56
Axle/Gears: 3.27 9-bolt
Doesn't sound like a real bad combo to me, somewhat mild but still a LOT of fun. (Actually, in this case, "mild" is a GOOD thing, since it'll be more reliable/easier on parts.) I'd think that a 2400 stall would match up well with your combo, & be one of the better "bang for the buck" mods you could do.

There are two things I'd change though -

* The primary pipe size for your headers is too big for your combo - you'll get better torque & throttle response if you bump it down slightly to the 1-5/8" size. (Speaking as someone who's bought the SLP 1-3/4" headers for a mild 350 myself...)

* Also, the airfoil probably won't do much for you. (Again, something that I've done myself...) That $40 or so would be better spent by buying an auxiliary tranny cooler - yeah, I know it's not "sexy" or something that adds more power, but listen to this: They say that every 20 degree drop in tranny-fluid temp doubles the life of your transmission.. And if you're not spending cash on repairing your tranny, you can spend it on further mods, right??

Good luck!
Old 12-27-2006, 11:34 PM
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Brodix IK180 Aluminum Assembled Cylinder Heads
Summit SFI Harmonic damper
LT4 Hotcam
Harland Sharp 1.6 Roller Rockers

Edelbrock High flow TPI Base
SLP High Flow runners
i cant afford to have it bored


Big, big mistake.

You're buying the "kit" already, which includes pistons. Buying .030" over ones is the same price as std bore, maybe even cheaper.

You're listing aftermarket go-fast (NOT required) parts there that total AT LEAST 5-6 times the cost of a cyl bore.

Don't cheeep out on the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT part of getting long-term reliability; which is, how the rings seal to the bores.

The rest of it looks like total routine stuff, very commonplace. Low bang for the amount of bucks though, I think you'll find.
Old 12-28-2006, 12:44 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Yea, I was going to say, that doesn't sound all that budget to me. Brodix heads, Edelbrock intake, SFI balancer?
I really don't think you need an SFI balancer, at $240. Get the $60 one, you won't be making much power over 6000RPM anyway.

And yea, whether or not you want it to be bored out isn't something that's an option. Find that out first, then buy the kit as needed.
Ie, machinist says "needs .020 overbore", so you buy the kit with the .020" pistons and give machinist the pistons so he can bore the block. That's only about a $200 investment right there, the bore and hone operation.

Not sure whats in that rebuild kit, if you post the link we might be able to help you out. ie, does it come with cam bearings? Freeze plugs? oil pump? waterpump? oil pickup, pan? Timing cover? (if you want a shiny one).
Old 12-28-2006, 01:27 AM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
ARP main bolts another go-fast/not-needed item. Rod bolts, go ahead. Just resize the big ends afterwards.

Can we assume this is a 350 you're talking about? If not, forget the whole thing. Doing all that to a 305 is just silly. If it is indeed a 350, then it had better be a factory roller block, or the LT4 cam won't work (easily, anyway).
Old 12-28-2006, 07:59 AM
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Car: 89 IROC/05 RX8
Engine: LS1/LS1
Transmission: T56/T56
Axle/Gears: 3.42 GM/3.55 8.8
Thanks for the replies.

The engine is actually a L31 350 Truck block.

I will call to the local machine shop today so figure out the cost to have the engine bored.

The federal mongul rebuild kit, includes hyperneutectic pistons, freeze plugs, cam, main, and rod bearings, oil pump etc etc. and is $249 from summit.

The Brodix heads i was figuring would add a bit of power, but my friend (owns a race shop) told me id be better off taking the plunge and going for some AFR heads. the brodix heads are $1069 from summit.

The SFI Harmonic damper is a summit peice. I was thinking it would be better quality then the stock one? Their $115 from summit.

I can take the ARP Main bolts off then.

I was thinking i could port the **** out of my stock base and just run the SLP runners on there rather then get the edelbrock base. Would that work?

My last question regards head selection. Now i know if i were to use vortec heads i would need to get the edelbrock vortec base, but the engine already has vortec heads. Would it be better i port these, and do some work on them? (their stock heads)

Thanks for all the help!

P.s. My budget was $2500 for the long block, $750 for induction, $750 for tranny.

If i were to go to 1 5/8, on my iroc, i have full heddman header system to a welded high flow cat back, that i could transfer over to this engine.
Old 12-28-2006, 10:22 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
$115? That's pretty good, I'd still go with the $60 non SFI, since you don't "need" the SFI style. ARP main bolts for a 2 bolt block (what are vortecs?) are like $17. 4 bolts are around $24. I'd do 'em anyway, since they're so cheap.

Ok, so you have vortecs (free), or you buy AFR's, $1400 or so eh? I'd port the vortecs, you'll be buying a new intake anyway so....
If you can afford the AFR's, go for it, they're the best, but the ported vortecs will do quite well though, and save ya around $1000.

That 1 5/8" idea is a good one, since you already have it.
Old 12-28-2006, 12:35 PM
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I've got a new set of Topline Ported Vortecs w/comp beehive springs and self-guided roller rockers. 2.02"/1.6"valves. These were worked by Creative Flow Mangement and I have flow#'s. These babies will make 450hp with a Street cam. $750


BTW. If you don't have all your parts for the build, I've also got a 408 short block. Just assembled and never ran. Scat9000 crank(new), Hypereustectic pistons(new) and PF 5.7" rods (new). Balanced rotating assembly and prof. assembled. Flexplate and dampner. Deep pan and new oil pump. Comp XE274H cam. $1300.
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