Hey guys,

I just got my 84 Trans Am (305 H.O. with a carb) out of the shop and while it was in I asked them to "check my timing". I asked what it was at and he said he "set it to about 9"...well, being the paranoid type, and knowing that number was wrong (It's supposed to be 6), I picked up a timing light the other day and attempted to reset it. Well, I don't know how he set it, because with where the Alternator and the upper radiator hose are, I can't maneuver the timing light to get it down on the pointers to see where it's set at. And the one time I did get it down there, it wound up with the tip so close to the pointers that I wasn't able to see the marks. Does any one have any tips for doing this?

Alternately, if I picked up a digital timing light, how do they work? I've never seen one used before. I would assume that i need to still get the light "down" on the pointers but it has this display on the backside...is that where I would take my reading from? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Whats wrong with 9 deg advanced? Is it running poorly? How may miles are on the engine? Whats your elevation? Take all of these things into consideration before doing your timing. I have my 1994 350 tbi k2500 set at 12 deg. my 92 rs 305tbi set at 10 deg advanced. they run great.
As for your ?, clean your harmonic balancer and put some paint (a finger nail paint brush works awsome!!! Just don't tell the wife what you used it for!!!) on the groove cut into it. That will make it way easier to see. Don't forget to unplug your vacuum advance from the dist. and plug it off to set base timing!

 

The problem is the factory setting is 6*...not 9. As for altitude, I'm at 4200 feet here in Clovis, New Mexico. Miles on the engine, 75000, miles on the car 114000. It's the stock 305, threw a bearing in it some years ago and had to have it rebuilt. I've got an idle problem, diesling problem, and some other issues that I didn't have prior to having them "check my timing' so I'm just trying to eliminate the issues one at a time and got stuck on this one.

My biggest problem, is I can't bloody read the settings because I've got the alternator and upper radiator hose in the way. I can't put the timing light in a position to accurately hit the balancer (which I've already painted) so I can read it. So I guess my question should have been, how do you guys check your timing with this stuff in the way? I can't rightly remove the alternator and keep the car running long enough to accurately check the timing, especially if I have to make an adjustment. I can wiggle the timing light down into the space between the alternator and balancer (it's kind of scary working around those running belts like that), but there isn't enough room between the end of the light and the balancer for me to see what it's set at.

 

I got ya now. I haven't got that problem on my 92. Its pretty easy to read mine. My wife has and 85 z28 I'll take a look ad let you know what I would try, if that will help.

 

ive got the Alt in the same postion ( unless u have serp aftermarket or w/e)

I can clearly see the timing once i had cleaned it, Use it from the right side ( which evidently is closer to #1 Spark plug wire anyhow so)

If you cant see it then you gotta clean it

 

I'll give it a try but from where I"m looking, my angle is all off so I can't see it right...but I'll try cleaning it up and see if that makes any difference. Thanks!

 

To see the timing mark, you look right straight down behind the water pump. Nothing is in the way. That's why they put the mark where they did... it's a straight shot down there.

You are disconnecting the plug behind the dist when you're "setting the timing", aren't you?

Why are you doing this in the first place? With that ignition system, it's entirely possible that the timing won't change enough to matter, over almost the entire useable life of the engine. It's CERTAINLY not like the old days with points, where you have to diddle on it every few days.

Why do you think you want it at 6°? Is that really the right setting for your car? The factory used that spec because it worked in cars that operated at sea level or 5000'; -25°, or 110° outside; summer, winter, northern, or southern blend fuel; "normal" driver preferences (whatever that means; and so on. It wasn't the "best" setting for any of those things, but setting it there meant that when it rolled off the line, it could get shipped ANYWHERE and work OK.

Just FYI, the L69 usually works better with more timing than the factory spec, or at least mine has for the last 20-odd years (or at least the part of that while it has been in the car...).

I'd suggest not getting all hung up over making it "the factory spec"; but instead, make it run the best it can. Unless you live in California or elsewhere where it's part of your inspection procedure, which it sounds like it's not. In point of fact, your motor will probably run its best on premium gas and with the timing set to between 10° and 12°. But in order to check it, you MUST unplug the 4-wire Weatherpack connector that hangs out of the bottom of the distributor and hooks to a pigtail coming out of the big wiring loom running across the back of the motor. With the motor off, unplug that, and set the timing; then shut it down and plug it back in. When you plug it back in the timing will go to about 25°. This is normal and correct. If you haven't disconnected it, then that's where it is now; which is quite some way off the timing tab.

 

[quote=sofakingdom;3144066]To see the timing mark, you look right straight down behind the water pump. Nothing is in the way. That's why they put the mark where they did... it's a straight shot down there.

You are disconnecting the plug behind the dist when you're "setting the timing", aren't you?

Why are you doing this in the first place? With that ignition system, it's entirely possible that the timing won't change enough to matter, over almost the entire useable life of the engine. It's CERTAINLY not like the old days with points, where you have to diddle on it every few days.

Why do you think you want it at 6°? Is that really the right setting for your car? The factory used that spec because it worked in cars that operated at sea level or 5000'; -25°, or 110° outside; summer, winter, northern, or southern blend fuel; "normal" driver preferences (whatever that means; and so on. It wasn't the "best" setting for any of those things, but setting it there meant that when it rolled off the line, it could get shipped ANYWHERE and work OK.

Just FYI, the L69 usually works better with more timing than the factory spec, or at least mine has for the last 20-odd years (or at least the part of that while it has been in the car...).

Thats what I said!!!!

 

Well, the main reason I'm checking it is because of the problems I've been having since I got it back from the shop. I simply want to eliminate this as a problem. I'll set it back to "Factory" and if it makes no difference, then I"ll put it back to 9. /shrug I'm troubleshooting some problems and this is one of the steps. I just ran into some problems actually trying to check it. And yes, I am disconnecting the 4-pack connector. Thanks guys for your input, I do appreciate it.

 

Good diagnostic step; whether it makes a difference or not leave it at 6° until you solve the existing problems. Changing the timing to make it run better isn't going to help much if it won't run right at OEM timing, unless that's causing the problems.
In this case I would use a digital readout if you have trouble seeing the groove.

 

Sofa: If the balancer slipped and the timing was reset, the timing would be retarded from where it should be wouldn't it?
I do know if you retard the timing a bunch and jack the idle up to compensate, it will make the engine diesel when it is turned off.