km7152

Just started my first motor build, trying to get a decent amount of power for my weekend car. 400 N/A wheel horse would be siick! Bottom end is 383, Eagle 4340 Forged Crank, 4340 6" H Beams, Forged Aluminum Flat Top Pistons, etc. 2 piece RMS, 4 bolt main .030 over. Now, where the hell do I start for my topend? Ive looked at all the packages through summit and jegs etc, I dont really like any of them. But being my first motor, I probably wont have luck piecing stuff together on my own. So heres what im looking for. Recommendations on aluminum heads, its gonna be carbed, no emissions, id like to be under $1300 for heads if possible.

Help?
I cant really explain everything im trying asking, but just shoot some suggestions for top end combos so i can get a general idea what to look for...i have some time i wont be finished assembling the short block for a while
Thanks Guys

sixpackmtrspts

for heads i would run either an afr or a brodix head, they both offer some right at 1300 and below. with the right cam you could easily make 400hp.

the brodix ik200 look like a decent budget head.

another option is to go used, i buy most of my heads used or trade for stuff.

zz4monte

You are going to need a serious 383 to run 400rwhp NA.AFR 195cc heads and a 230-240 dur. cam are needed at least to get close to that power.Try something like this.

195cc Afr's
Hyd. roller comp cam XR288 236 242 520 540.
This is a serious cam for a 383 as a daily driver and probably will effect your power brakes.350rwhp would be alot easier to get. I have seen many 383's with 450-470fwhp with good heads and a 230ish hyd. roller cam like the comp hyd. roller xe XR282 230 236 510 520.This cam is in many daily driven 383s but will still lope pretty hard.You will probably need 500fwhp or around there to get 400rwhp.It can be done but you will start to lose streetablity.
Expect to spend at least $1,200 on a good set of high performance aluminum heads.AFR is not the only company out there.I have heard good things about Brodix and Canifield.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You've got a 2pc RMS block, so i'm guessing it's a flat tappet.

Planning on paying the mondo big bux to go retro roller? If not, i'd look into solid flat tappet cams. Something in the 235/240 i/e range would work great. Use a stud girdle, polylocks, and good roller rockers.

I agree with the previously mentioned heads. You can't really go wrong with most of the decent aftermarket heads. If you're spending $600 on a set, then you can probably go wrong, but with most of the respectable brands, 195cc intakes or larger, you're fine. AFR 195cc would work (because AFR really knows how to get a lot out of 195cc's), other brands, look at 200cc or larger.

Make sure you 0 deck the block, and shoot for perfect quench ~.040", run 10-10.5:1 SCR so it's not a dog down low. It'll scream.

km7152

Sweeet, ya Im starting to get really excited about all this. Id like to keep it streetable, but it wont be my daily driver. Thats what the stock 78' Z28 is for. Ive heard plenty good for AFR, but wasnt sure about the application. Also what about Trick Flow heads? I know im gonna need angled plugs to clear the Lt's so I dont run into any clearance issues. Also, retrofit roller cams worth the money? Not a big deal but something I'll probably look into at some point. I think my SCR with 64cc is going to be approx mid 11ish, 2 valve relief flat top pistons. So I should probably aim lower in the 10 area then? with a bigger head 68 or 72. Also, you say 195cc AFR's or 200cc other brand, I shouldnt be looking any higher than that right? I saw 230cc heads for SBC's thought it was a little crazy. And for the zeroing the block, thats something i should tell the machine shop when theyre boring/honing/etc right? Thanks, you guys just gave me an incredible amount of info, and Im finally starting to understand it.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yea, tell the machine shop to "zero deck" the block. This'll jump up your CR, so make a note of that when choosing head combustion chamber sizes. It helps quench though.
Yea, mid to low 10's on AL heads should work fine.

Price out a hydraulic flat tappet, solid flat tappet, and retro roller setup. The retro setup is BIG $ MORE. Like instead of $200 for the cam, it's $400, tappets, not $80, but $260. Springs need to be bigger, etc. If you can justify it, giver', it's the best. If not, a solid flat tappet will do the job quite nicely. Just plan on resetting lash every oil change.

If you go to a 220-230cc intake port, choose a BIG cam. And be prepared to have a RACE CAR. It'll be a bi*** on the streets. I wouldn't do that, I think with a "mild" (200cc ports, 235* duration intake cam) setup, you'll still be grinning like a 13yr old with a dirty magazine.

km7152

I'm already grinning, just thinking about all this. Now, the 195cc AFR Street heads, 74cc, look good all around, except the 550 max lift? It wouldn't be worth it to buy them, replace the springs, valves, locks, etc...the other choice for 150 more is the 210 Race ready, 66cc, angled plugs...is that still too big of a head for streetable car? I never thought I'd come to the point where I'm worrying about streetability, my first thoughts were just to get my car really fast...but now that I'm at this point it wont do me any good if the closest track is 2 hours away, and I cant drive it on the streets once in a while.
Also you mention retro roller, and solid tappet, but what about just a hydraulic flat tappet? Is that where I'd probably run into valve float and those sorts of problems? I'm really leaning towards retro roller, I dont like the idea of constantly having to set valve lash. Thanks Again

Kevin

izcain

I have a 383 with 10.8 compression and have a nitrous flat tappet cam with trick flow heads but now I am thinking of switch to a solid tappet....... I would definitly recommend one of those or a roller setup for a serious combination. Mine is a screamer even with the hydraulic. runs deep 11's just motor. But it does have some problems with revving high...... Thats why the solid is in the works. Sounds like you have a solid bottom end so far.

km7152

Would I have problems in the higher RPM range with a retro roller setup? I dont plan on revving too high, Id like to keep power range under 7 at max. I looked at them, they are a bit pricey, but maybe Ill just take the inconvenience of having to adjust solid instead.