My TPI 305 keeps stalling
#1
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Car: '87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: stock
My TPI 305 keeps stalling
I've been trying to trouble shoot my my car, but can't figure it out. It stalls when i come up to a stop and push in the clutch. Its only does it once every 2 or 3 stops but its getting anoying in some of the stop and go traffic out here. After the car stalls it always starts right back up.
Any ideas out there as to what could cause this?
Any help would be awesome, thanks!
Any ideas out there as to what could cause this?
Any help would be awesome, thanks!
#2
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Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
My car is doing the same thing, but less often. I'm thinking that the IAC my be the issue. I think that the fuel leans out too much at idle and makes it stall.
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Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
My fuel pump is new, the car starts and runs well. I think it's simply an air/fuel mixture issue at low RPM.
#5
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Car: '87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: stock
It seems to get plenty of fuel, haven't tested it though.
Just the other day it almost died on the highway though..... it probably had about 25% of the total power for a min then went back to normal.
Anyone know if there is an intake manifold to convert it to a Carb without having to change the heads? Seems like it might be the easiest way... just eliminate the Electronics all together.
Just the other day it almost died on the highway though..... it probably had about 25% of the total power for a min then went back to normal.
Anyone know if there is an intake manifold to convert it to a Carb without having to change the heads? Seems like it might be the easiest way... just eliminate the Electronics all together.
#6
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Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
You could go to a carb, but that seems a little extreme to me. There are other intakes that will fit to those heads. Be aware that you will also have to do something to lower the fuel pressure for a carb, probably a new fuel pump. And get a new distributor.
#7
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Car: 1992 Camaro vert
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt... not blow up yet
stalling
AHHHH i hate that i have a 92 z28 with 305tpi and mine stalls at stop lights also. its embarassing because id be at a light gettin ready to race sum1 and it stalls out like I missed the clutch and stall it but its an AUTOMATIC!!!! my car club always busts on me for it, if ne1 knows how to fix this PLEASE tell me!!! it only does it about 1-2 times a week but its still a pain in the A$$! thankx guys
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#8
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I've had the same thing going on with mine for about two months now, and I changed the TPS out a few weeks ago and the problem went away, but now it's back again. Does minor surges when sitting at a stoplight, then might drop out and die. Sometimes going down the highway it drops down to about 1k and I have to feather the gas to get it to come back up... I was thinking about going and putting in a new IAC today to see if that helps out... but like most of you here I'm at a loss for what's next.
Kevin
Kevin
#9
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Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: TPIS II Supercharged w/Nitrous
Transmission: 700R4 Probuilt
Axle/Gears: 3:73 Richmond 12 Bolt
Occasionally Died Out on me
Before I did the big engine swap many months ago, I had a very similiar problem with mine. It would drive around all day at higher idle but when I came to a stop it would fall right on it's face. I ended up changing the TPS, MAF, ESC, ECM, PROM, and still it did it. I talked to a good friend here and he told me the crank sensor was bad. He ended up taking the car home for 2 days and I don't know what he did but, I have never had another problem since.
#10
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Car: '87 IROC Z-28
Engine: 305
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: stock
Hey kevin, let me know if it helps...
I know changing over to a carb would be a lil bit of work... but if i do it i plan on putting in a high lift cam and everyting at the same time.
I know changing over to a carb would be a lil bit of work... but if i do it i plan on putting in a high lift cam and everyting at the same time.
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Car: Tree Huggers
Engine: Do Not
Transmission: Appreciate Me.
Before I did the big engine swap many months ago, I had a very similiar problem with mine. It would drive around all day at higher idle but when I came to a stop it would fall right on it's face. I ended up changing the TPS, MAF, ESC, ECM, PROM, and still it did it. I talked to a good friend here and he told me the crank sensor was bad. He ended up taking the car home for 2 days and I don't know what he did but, I have never had another problem since.
Guys, make sure your state of tune is good. That includes making sure the TPS and IAC are set up and working properly. No vacuum leaks etc. and that everything is working as it should. Get your ignitioon modules tested and make sure you clean the surfaces well and don't use dielectric grease. If you have MAFs and the car continually stalls or won't start, unplug it to see if there is something bad in it's circuit (typically a relay, NOT the MAF). All the simple things done, most will likely see their problem go away.
#14
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Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
Engine: 305 LB9 TPI
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 9-Bolt 3.45
Crank Position Sensor? I don't believe that my car has one of those.....
There is an ignition module of some sort in the dizzy that can fail and cause the car to stall. When mine failed it wouldn't start again until that part was replaced.
I am trying a different version of the .bin file in the PROM to see if that helps. I'm reading that the 1989 .bin is supposed to be better than the 1987 version.
There is an ignition module of some sort in the dizzy that can fail and cause the car to stall. When mine failed it wouldn't start again until that part was replaced.
I am trying a different version of the .bin file in the PROM to see if that helps. I'm reading that the 1989 .bin is supposed to be better than the 1987 version.
#15
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Car: 1985 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
So far, so good. It idles pretty low when it first starts up but about a minute later it's better, although it still seems like it's hunting for an idle speed until it's warmed up. It's been 2 weeks now, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
#16
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Car: 84 bird
Engine: 305
i've been an auto mechanic for 14 years, most of the time ( NOT ALL ) random stalling is caused by the EGR hanging open - very simply unhook the EGR valve and test drive it, thats all you gotta do to test it!
some other very simple things you can do is - take your IAC motor out or better yet remove your entire throttle body assembly from the vehicle and clean out all the passages in IAC chamber and the throttle plates themselves if they are coked up ( no NOT charlie sheen type of coked up, the blackish brown residue ) NOTE - do not use a wire brush on your throttle plates, they are coated from the factory - use an old toothbrush and some cleaner specifically for cleaning throttle body or some mineral spirits - carb cleaner or brake cleaner or wire brushes will take the coating off the throttle plates. some times the IAC will be all gummed up and cause the stall
some other very simple things you can do is - take your IAC motor out or better yet remove your entire throttle body assembly from the vehicle and clean out all the passages in IAC chamber and the throttle plates themselves if they are coked up ( no NOT charlie sheen type of coked up, the blackish brown residue ) NOTE - do not use a wire brush on your throttle plates, they are coated from the factory - use an old toothbrush and some cleaner specifically for cleaning throttle body or some mineral spirits - carb cleaner or brake cleaner or wire brushes will take the coating off the throttle plates. some times the IAC will be all gummed up and cause the stall
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