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Old 09-22-2006, 04:44 PM
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Max lift

I have to wait till spring to get my Trickflows, so I am taking in a pair of 416's to get some machine work done. I have a valve machine & seat grinder, so I'll most likely get around to putting in 1.94's before any machinework done (also, some home P&P). They will be tanked, mag'd, resurfaced, machined & tapped for screw in studs w/ guide plates, and have the valve guide bosses machined for positive seals.

My question is, Will having the guide bosses machined for the locking valve seals increase the amount of lift that will be available over stock, or would it require even more machining? I'll be looking to stay under .500" for lift.

Last edited by Zed'er; 09-22-2006 at 04:45 PM. Reason: edited for typo
Old 09-22-2006, 05:46 PM
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Car: cleanest '86 sport coupe around!!
Engine: 355ci twin 66mm turbos on e85
Transmission: built rmvb th400 w/ t-brake
Axle/Gears: 3.23
should be good to about .480" lift depending on the valve springs.
Old 09-22-2006, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by leeperryracing
should be good to about .480" lift depending on the valve springs.

Agreed. You dont really wanna go above a .480 with a stock converter (assuming its auto) You can go really to any lift, as long as your springs match the cam and are installed at the right height.
Old 09-22-2006, 07:17 PM
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remember, if the heads can't flow to match the lift, thats also pointless
Old 09-22-2006, 07:18 PM
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If the head already had factory-installed positive seals on the valve guides (don't know if 416s did or not) then you'll have about .470 clearance with the seal installed.

However, if those heads never used positive seals on the guides and you install them you can lose significant clearance with a seal installed on an unmachined guide. If you've got them apart you might as well check. If you need to machine the guides down (or smaller in diameter) to fit a positive seal then this is certainly the time to do so.
Old 09-22-2006, 07:54 PM
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My 416's had non-positive seals stock.

If you need to machine the guides down (or smaller in diameter) to fit a positive seal then this is certainly the time to do so.
This is exactly what you want to do. Use the cutter to machine it thinner, and at the same time it cuts the top down. Bring it down .050" or so, that should be enough.
Home ported 416's will like in the high .4xx" range lift, thats for sure.
Old 09-23-2006, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Zed'er
and have the valve guide bosses machined for positive seals.

I am having them done, that's why I asked. The springs will be matched to the cam, and I'm looking at nothing bigger than a 214/224 and I'll have about 448/471 at the valve with my 1.52 magnum roller tips. I though a stock 416 could already handle .480" of lift.
Old 09-23-2006, 01:09 PM
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if you're putting on trickflows later, are you also replacing your cam again?
I'd put in a respectable cam now, so you don't have to re-do it later.

3.73 and the T5 eliminates the hassle of torque convertor and whatnot.

My 416's didn't have the valve guides machined, and I had .535" lift on the exhaust, without problems. Reason being is the aftermarket retainers, which may have been offset ones. (or the locks being offset, I should say). My machinist assembled my heads for me.
Old 09-23-2006, 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Sonix
if you're putting on trickflows later, are you also replacing your cam again?
I'd put in a respectable cam now, so you don't have to re-do it later.

3.73 and the T5 eliminates the hassle of torque convertor and whatnot.
Yeah, I will actually be going to a larger mechanical cam with the Trickflows. I don't mind doing it later, besides, I don't really want to grenade the T5. I am rebuilding a TH400 for the beast, for later use. I have another 010 block that I may put the trickflows on (just pulled and disassembled last night). It was recently rebuilt with a fresh .030 overbore, but sometimes I don't trust other peoples work, especially when it had mismatched heads on it (which prompted the teardown, lol).
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