When popping out the rods and pistons does the crank need to be at BTC or TDC for any reason?

How should I prep the block after a good cleaning so it doesn't rust?

Any other small tips I might need to know when it comes to a teardown and overhaul?

 

nope. Were you going to try to remove your rods/pistons with the crank still in the motor? Usually you remove the crank first I think, then pull pistons/rods out from the underside...

after cleaning you can can mist it with wd40, and or wipe it with oil. Just get a bottle of cheap 30wt oil or something, and a rag, and wipe all machined surfaces. mist the other surfaces.
you'll probably be needing machine work anyway right? well, who knows what you're about to find eh?

 

Underside? The pistons and rods won't come out the bottom of the engine. At least not in one piece.

Crank position doesn't matter but normally the piston is down in the cylinder when you disconnect the rod from the crank. You then push the piston and rod back up into the cylinder and out the top (heads have to be off).

 

?
really? I could have sworn I've removed a piston and rod, together, by pushing the piston down, hammering on the piston top if it was stuck, and then it'd fall out the bottom. Obviously the crank has to be removed first.
WHat would stop it from coming out the bottom?


but yea, you can remove it from the top, I just figured that'd be harder...

 

You can only remove certain pistons from the bottom, due to the way the block is cast. The crank should be out and the cylinder heads off. Once the heads are off, Push the piston towards the bottom of the cylinder and remove the ridge on the top of the cylinder, either with a ridge reamer, or emery cloth, or something mildly abrasive. You can then push the pistons out of the top of the block. Make sure the cylinders are clean before this step, as to avoid piston side scoring or cylinder scoring. Afterwords, as Sonix mentioned, mist it with some oil after cleaning, unless you plan on having a machine shop clean it. Hope that helps you some.

 

You may already know this, but in case... Make sure you keep all the rod caps and main caps in order and as a pair so when rebuilt, they can go exactly back where they came from. You will save yourself or your builder hours.

WD-40 after cleaning. Also, I always leave the crank in and remove each piston/rod one at a time (thru the top). Of course be careful and try your best not to gouge the crank or cylinder wall surfaces (this may allow you to get by with a hone or crank polish if there is not alot of wear on your engine).

 

VERY good point to make. Connecting rods are cast as a complete piece, and the caps are cut from each individual rod, they are not produced separately. Be sure to keep them in their proper order.

 

I know the crank goes in first and then the rods/pistons so I only assumed removal would be the reverse of assembly. Can you even get the crank out without pulling the rods and pistons?

 

Yes, if you take the cap off of one rod and run the piston to TDC, then the next rod, etc., until all 8 are off and then removing the crank. Would only be of value if you are only replacing the crank and bearings. And, I don't believe I've ever done it.

I usually the remove the first rod cap at BDC, run to TDC and let the rod disengage with crank, turn crank to 90 degrees from there, and push rod/piston out the top with wooden hammer handle, then move on to the next until they're all out. Marking all of the rods/caps 1 through 8 first, of course. . .

 

It is not possible to remove ANY of the pistons of a small block (or a big block either, for that matter) through the bottom of the block, as Stephen said. ALL must come out through the deck. The main bearing webs are in the way of them coming out the other way.

Yes it is possible, and quite easy in fact, to remove the crank with the rods and pistons still in place, as five7 described. It is frequently done that way, especially to relatively young motors that have had some sort of catastrophic crank or bearing failure.

Use a number stamp, and stamp the rods and the caps with their numbers, on the side of the rod facing away from the cam, BEFORE unbolting them. That way, the crank journal serves as the "backup" to them, and you won't bend (crush) them. DO NOT try to mark them with a punch after they've been removed from the crank, you WILL have to get them re-sized. Alternatively you could use a Dremel pencil or something. But whatever you use, make sure it's solvent-proof; not paint or Magic Marker, for instance.

To keep from even accidentally damaging the crank journals, put a little piece of plastic tubing like aquarium hose, or some rubber fuel line, on each rod bolt, as soon as you take its cap off. Who knows, maybe your crank is wasted anyway, but then again maybe it's not; it'd be a shame for it to be good but to trash it during the inspection procedure and have to spend money on it unnecessarily, just from carelessness.

 

Thanks everyone.

:::Crosses fingers:::: hopefully my crank is good. There was metal from the oil pump driveshaft hitting a main washer (MAINLY), a cracked lifter (I don't know how), and the timing cover very slightly kissing a cam bolt or the dowl pin.

 

You have been some really good replys and good tips....but I'll tell you this is the MOST I mean MOST important part of rebuilding an engine, and trust me, I learned from my mistakes so listen up!

-After you take the pistons and the crank out (I would take the pistons with the rods first, I don't know what that guy up there is talking about ^)

-Clean it up, and lube it up with some cheap oil

- KEEP UP COVERED!!!!!!!!!! DO NOT let that block see daylight!! Im telling you dirt WILL get in there some way or another.

- And last....DONT LOSE ANYTHING! keep everying organized, and keep small parts like main caps and bolts in zip lock bags, trust me you'll thank yourself later
Good luck

 

It can be done either way, I just remove the crank first, to me it's easier to pop the pistons out of the top without the crank in the way.

It IS possible to remove some of the pistons through the bottom of the block, considering I just did it two nights ago

 

Any tips for removing the rod caps? My Eagle H-Beams won't seperate!

 

Yeah, tapp them with a rubber mallet, they should come right off. You can even try some oil over them to loosen them up.