transam85dudeman

Yeah hey board, this is my first post, I own a 1985 Pontiac Trans Am. Tuned port injected. Well the last few months have been exciting but yet depressing, only because Im stumped.

I was testing the solenoids for the Egr vacuum, purge canister, and the Airselect valve assembly. I had the beeping setting on the ohm meter(to test for contunality) and I got a beep on all four. I checked out the wiring diagrams and all those solenoids are in parallal and also in junction with a fuse.
-Heres the question...should I worry abouts that? it trouble I think. I tell you why. I had spent the last o' 8 months off and on working on that car, trying to figure whats wrongs with her. a long list later I found that the Egr solenoid was fried, so what I did was disconnected it, and plug the vacuum lines. It ran perfect. I was so excited that i had pinpointed the problem and that all i had to do was replace the solenoid. Well I dont was it was but it took a crap on me that night, what I had Believed I had done was of set the voltage the the other three solenoids. I was reading up in the manual (haynes) that the all depend on each other if there one sour brownie, then its no cake. Sadly enough Im stumped. So those restance values, yep read 1. I know i know. but the beep setting too, reveled the beeping through each of the solenoids themselves.
(off the topic)
I have to mention, this site rocks, all third gen fan unite and discovery the possiblity of best hobby in ones life. Gotta love it.

Lo-tec

Exactly what is your question?

beep beep

transam85dudeman

My question is, are these values normal? What steps should I take, are they burnt out.?

Vader

I'm not certain at what percentage of scale your meter will produce an audible continuity signal, but typical solenoid resistance should be between 35-50 ohms. The solenoids do not "all depend on each other" to operate properly. Technicaly, every electrical device on the vehicle is connected to the same points - A ground or a voltage source. Every light bulb connects to the battery through switches, fuses, and wires, but if one fails, they don't all fail. Being in parallel means they are fully independent.

What steps should you take? Measure the resistance (not just continuity) of each suspect solenoid. If it is within reason, it should work. Measure the voltage applied to the solenoid(s). If it is somewhere between 11-15V, it should work. That would prove the electrical integrity of the solenoid(s). There is still a question of mechanical function.

The solenoids you listed are all vacuum valves. They could be electrically pristine and still not switch vacuum if something has happened to the valve arrangement. Any of them could be plugged, distorted, contaminated, melted, or otherwise damaged so that they will not switch vacuum even with the solenoid coil intact and functioning. They would also require correct connections to a vacuum source and a device. You've done about 1/4 of the diagnosis you need to perform. This may clarify the situation:

transam85dudeman

You are right. the air select valves were a good 34-35 and the purge, egr valve solenoid was about 27-29 thanks man. i look forward replacing the throttle postioning sensor, on account of crapping reading im getting.