You think this engine is a good deal?
06-15-2006, 06:44 PM
#1
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
You think this engine is a good deal?
eBay Motors: Chevy 350 357 SHORT BLOCK 395HP + ENGINE MOTOR SBC (item 8074362078 end time Jun-20-06 14:48:37 PDT)
I bought one of these off ebay you think its worth it? I hope so I needed one in a hurry!!! What do you think? Sounds too good to be true!!
I bought one of these off ebay you think its worth it? I hope so I needed one in a hurry!!! What do you think? Sounds too good to be true!!
06-15-2006, 06:52 PM
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: L03
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Stock
Looks alright.
But 395hp with the stock camshaft?
With eBay you never really know, but you may have found a good thing here.
But 395hp with the stock camshaft?
With eBay you never really know, but you may have found a good thing here.
06-15-2006, 06:58 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
A little late to ask now, isn't it?
You know what they say, "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is."
In this case, you'll probably get a servicable engine, at least all feedback in the last 12 months has been positive.
I'm sure the "395 HP" is with the $289.95 piston and $189.95 camshaft upgrades.
"Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain."
You know what they say, "If it seems too good to be true, it probably is."
In this case, you'll probably get a servicable engine, at least all feedback in the last 12 months has been positive.
I'm sure the "395 HP" is with the $289.95 piston and $189.95 camshaft upgrades.
"Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain."
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06-15-2006, 07:12 PM
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
The only reason I havent bought yet, because supposively this shop is 2 hours away... but when you click to check shipping is comes from texas... which is like 17 hours away lol im trying to find out if i can pick it up... the question is.... should I buy it yes or no... these price id pay to get my block cleaned up and get what that has will be over $700 easy... help guys!
----------
Okay i found this
**395+HP was with aftermarket heads, different camshaft and sufficient induction. Your engine combination will vary from ours so as will your horsepower ratings. Understand your "HP" may be more or less depending on your choice of parts you add to your short block.**
Bummer... if i buy it what cam should i get?? or should i get his cam... man i need this motor like soon
----------
Okay i found this
**395+HP was with aftermarket heads, different camshaft and sufficient induction. Your engine combination will vary from ours so as will your horsepower ratings. Understand your "HP" may be more or less depending on your choice of parts you add to your short block.**
Bummer... if i buy it what cam should i get?? or should i get his cam... man i need this motor like soon
Last edited by nelapse; 06-15-2006 at 07:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-15-2006, 07:40 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
call them and ask where it is, and how you can pick it up.
make sure you read the notes, as to what the motor is lacking, ie, lifter, intake, carb, oilin, etc etc.
That's steep for the cam upgrade, $190, and still no lifters? A cam should cost you ~$120, and $50 for lifters. I'd buy that seperate, once you get your motor.
----------
uuh yea, no cam, no heads, 395 HP? with what?
make sure you read the notes, as to what the motor is lacking, ie, lifter, intake, carb, oilin, etc etc.
That's steep for the cam upgrade, $190, and still no lifters? A cam should cost you ~$120, and $50 for lifters. I'd buy that seperate, once you get your motor.
----------
uuh yea, no cam, no heads, 395 HP? with what?
Last edited by Sonix; 06-15-2006 at 07:41 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-15-2006, 07:47 PM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Well it appears to be a legit shortblock. Just a bunch of BS they put on the ad to make people think 0o0oo0 im going to make 395hp i better buy this one....
**395+HP was with aftermarket heads, different camshaft and sufficient induction. Your engine combination will vary from ours so as will your horsepower ratings. Understand your "HP" may be more or less depending on your choice of parts you add to your short block.**
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06-15-2006, 07:52 PM
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
heres the deal guys I have $1000 to get my car on the road. I need an engine... I have 3 different sets of heads already. Im not good at finding out these like what cam i need, What camshaft would you use??
i will buy and install myself... it takes only 20 minutes to install a cam on a shortblock... prolly noteven that... i have short amount of time to decide because i have to toss this engine in so my wife can use my truck for college. I have all accessories already .... everything but the short block!!
i will buy and install myself... it takes only 20 minutes to install a cam on a shortblock... prolly noteven that... i have short amount of time to decide because i have to toss this engine in so my wife can use my truck for college. I have all accessories already .... everything but the short block!!
06-15-2006, 07:57 PM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Well whats the choices for heads?
What type of induction?
Manaul or auto trans? if auto is it a stock stall or high stall TC?
What type of induction?
Manaul or auto trans? if auto is it a stock stall or high stall TC?
06-15-2006, 08:00 PM
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
the heads i have is
1 set from 305 60 cc or something like that
1 set from 91 76cc
1 set from 87 suburb 60 cc
i have carb set up unfortunately a 650 edelbrock with performer intake
manual transmission
what kinda hp you think that stock block will be without the "performance crap"
1 set from 305 60 cc or something like that
1 set from 91 76cc
1 set from 87 suburb 60 cc
i have carb set up unfortunately a 650 edelbrock with performer intake
manual transmission
what kinda hp you think that stock block will be without the "performance crap"
06-15-2006, 09:29 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
which 305 ones?
a cheap new short block, the 305 heads, and a summit cam with lifters would work ok. maybe 275HP or so. That's the cheap, fast, easy solution. You want power, you'll need either time (porting heads, homework etc), or money (better parts).
a cheap new short block, the 305 heads, and a summit cam with lifters would work ok. maybe 275HP or so. That's the cheap, fast, easy solution. You want power, you'll need either time (porting heads, homework etc), or money (better parts).
06-15-2006, 09:57 PM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
need the casing numbers from those heads!
To verify that you have a decent casting to work with and so that you have a matching pair.
From their description of a 9.5:1 CR on stock heads (i assume their talking 76cc) your not going to be able to use a 58cc 305 head as the compression will be way too high.
But that being said, a mild cam on there and some bone stock smogger heads arent going to get you much power.
I think if your lucky 250hp at the fly depending on the casting of those 76cc heads.
To verify that you have a decent casting to work with and so that you have a matching pair.
From their description of a 9.5:1 CR on stock heads (i assume their talking 76cc) your not going to be able to use a 58cc 305 head as the compression will be way too high.
But that being said, a mild cam on there and some bone stock smogger heads arent going to get you much power.
I think if your lucky 250hp at the fly depending on the casting of those 76cc heads.
06-15-2006, 10:13 PM
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
according to the ad its a roller block, so i have to dish out extra cash for the roller lifters and such... i will get you the numbers tomorrow for the heads all three sets.
06-16-2006, 09:40 AM
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Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 3.08 10 Bolt
Both motors have stock spec cams and no heads but they claim almost 400 hp...I hate sellers like that. But machine work can cost $700 plus depending on what a block needs so you might be getting a decdent deal.
I'd just worry about the quality and craftmaship. Reconditioned stock rods and cranks won't hold up to a ton of power either.
I'd just worry about the quality and craftmaship. Reconditioned stock rods and cranks won't hold up to a ton of power either.
06-16-2006, 10:00 AM
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
**395+HP was with aftermarket heads, different camshaft and sufficient induction. Your engine combination will vary from ours so as will your horsepower ratings. Understand your "HP" may be more or less depending on your choice of parts you add to your short block.**
That being said I would go with the 1987 Suburban heads. They are much better than the old 882 smog variant and will keep your compression in check. They are likely 64 CC and 305 heads vary from 53-60 CC depending on the casting.
That being said I would go with the 1987 Suburban heads. They are much better than the old 882 smog variant and will keep your compression in check. They are likely 64 CC and 305 heads vary from 53-60 CC depending on the casting.
06-16-2006, 10:22 AM
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Your head selection doesn't sound too promising.
I would go with JUST ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES the 87 Submarine heads, except for the 70s smoggers. Those are the swirl-port trash. Better choices might include either 083 (350 TPI) or 081 (305 LG4/L69/TPI), depending on what compression you want. If your 305 heads are 416 or 601 or 081 casting, use those; if they're 187 (swirlies) or 434 (267 "peanut" heads) they're worthless.
A possible strategy might be to trade in all that other garbage at a machine shop as credit toward a set of something good.
But, get the casting #s; that's pretty much the only infallible way of determing what you've really got.
I would go with JUST ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES the 87 Submarine heads, except for the 70s smoggers. Those are the swirl-port trash. Better choices might include either 083 (350 TPI) or 081 (305 LG4/L69/TPI), depending on what compression you want. If your 305 heads are 416 or 601 or 081 casting, use those; if they're 187 (swirlies) or 434 (267 "peanut" heads) they're worthless.
A possible strategy might be to trade in all that other garbage at a machine shop as credit toward a set of something good.
But, get the casting #s; that's pretty much the only infallible way of determing what you've really got.
06-16-2006, 10:32 AM
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Transmission: TKX, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23
Originally Posted by Sonix
That's steep for the cam upgrade, $190, and still no lifters? A cam should cost you ~$120, and $50 for lifters. I'd buy that seperate, once you get your motor.
-- Joe
06-16-2006, 10:42 AM
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
Your head selection doesn't sound too promising.
I would go with JUST ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES the 87 Submarine heads, except for the 70s smoggers. Those are the swirl-port trash. Better choices might include either 083 (350 TPI) or 081 (305 LG4/L69/TPI), depending on what compression you want. If your 305 heads are 416 or 601 or 081 casting, use those; if they're 187 (swirlies) or 434 (267 "peanut" heads) they're worthless.
I would go with JUST ABOUT ANYTHING ELSE BESIDES the 87 Submarine heads, except for the 70s smoggers. Those are the swirl-port trash. Better choices might include either 083 (350 TPI) or 081 (305 LG4/L69/TPI), depending on what compression you want. If your 305 heads are 416 or 601 or 081 casting, use those; if they're 187 (swirlies) or 434 (267 "peanut" heads) they're worthless.
I am making 218 RWHP/339 RWTQ with a stock 350 cam and STOCK 810 casting swirl ports with stock exhaust manifolds and a stock 2bbl TBI unit. Keep in mind this engine is only 8.75:1 compression as well! The swirl ports will give better performance from idle-5,000 with the stock cam than ANY other stock head, with the exception of maybe the Vortecs. You will use a hell of a lot less gas using swirl ports.
218 RWHP/339 RWTQ as it sits
Pushing 5,500lbs of aerodynamic brick into the wind, not to bad is it.
Why I like my swirl ports
Again
I ran 68 lb/hr injectors static at 15 psi at 3,900 RPM. That means that I had fuel for 255-260 FWHP
PS-My 312 pulled 240 RWHP with UNTOUCHED 187s on it.
Last edited by Fast355; 06-16-2006 at 11:09 AM.
06-16-2006, 11:14 AM
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Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
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Open your eyes guys, he cant run 58/64cc heads. his compression will be through the roof unless he swaps out those pistons!
The swirlports arent that bad, well for a cheap and mild street engine anyways. if your looking to make decent power youll definately want something better.
The swirlports arent that bad, well for a cheap and mild street engine anyways. if your looking to make decent power youll definately want something better.
06-16-2006, 11:24 AM
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Originally Posted by 84z28350
Open your eyes guys, he cant run 58/64cc heads. his compression will be through the roof unless he swaps out those pistons!
The swirlports arent that bad, well for a cheap and mild street engine anyways. if your looking to make decent power youll definately want something better.
The swirlports arent that bad, well for a cheap and mild street engine anyways. if your looking to make decent power youll definately want something better.
06-16-2006, 11:36 AM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
sorry, didn't realize it was a roller cam. Then sure, $190 is pretty good!
also didn't know which pistons where there, hence what CR range that would put him into, hence which heads he'd want to use.
find out the deck height, and piston style that comes with that motor, then run it on some calculators online (or post it here). The 76cc smog heads will be bottom choice either way.
I think the swirls would be.... well, 2nd choice.
I'd use 416's/081's first. I highly doubt this has a decked block, and flat top pistons, hence the wanting to shy away from the small chamber 305 heads. Either way, you can use a die grinder to open up the chambers a bit to drop your CR ratio, if you know somebody with a die grinder...
These auctions come along all the time, no reason to jump all over this one, as if it's a once in a lifetime deal. Ebay can sometimes suck you into that mindset. Remember, the guy has 1000+ seller rating right? SO he sells this kinda motor, at this kind of price, all the time. No rush.
also didn't know which pistons where there, hence what CR range that would put him into, hence which heads he'd want to use.
find out the deck height, and piston style that comes with that motor, then run it on some calculators online (or post it here). The 76cc smog heads will be bottom choice either way.
I think the swirls would be.... well, 2nd choice.
I'd use 416's/081's first. I highly doubt this has a decked block, and flat top pistons, hence the wanting to shy away from the small chamber 305 heads. Either way, you can use a die grinder to open up the chambers a bit to drop your CR ratio, if you know somebody with a die grinder...
These auctions come along all the time, no reason to jump all over this one, as if it's a once in a lifetime deal. Ebay can sometimes suck you into that mindset. Remember, the guy has 1000+ seller rating right? SO he sells this kinda motor, at this kind of price, all the time. No rush.
06-16-2006, 11:52 AM
#22
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This is for a 1987-1995 roller cam engine
Seems to me, we all need to lay off of the cheerleading for some hypothetical "favorite" setup that gives non-reproducible results and the cute meaningless graphics that are twice the width of the page, and TAKE A LOOK at the AUCTION, and see what this guy is really selling.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Now, having done that, WHAT PISTONS ARE THOSE? Does he say ANYWHERE in his text WHAT HEADS HE USED to get his compression ratio "spec" with? Does he give the DECK CLEARANCE? Does he tell us what HEAD GASKETS his CR claim is based on? Then without that, HOW ON EARTH is anybody going to get all wound up about what the end-product CR is going to be, when THIS USER buys it and scrapes up whatever off his garage floor and sticks it on top?
All I see, is a block that's been punched as far it will go; and stock moving parts; and unspecified pistons except the brand (Silv-O-Lite). NOWHERE IN THERE do I see enough info to predict anything further. There's a "picture" of what looks like flat-tops in there, but at no time does he say if that's what you actually get. I do note that down at the bottom in the fine print, he tells you that the 385 HP claim is made with 58cc heads and some other cam, but that's about as far as it goes.
We all know that a short block has NOTHING WHATSOEVER to do with how much power you get out of a motor. That's ALL determined by the induction system. We ALL know (well, most of us do, anyway) that if you stick swirles or smoggers on a motor, it won't run hard; it might have good torque at low RPMs, but it won't make horsepower, BECAUSE IT DOESN'T FLOW. Just like that motr in those enormous graphs that makes less power than my 305 with the whole California emission-legal computer setup still on it. It makes OK torque, but very poor power.
Personally, my experience for over 3 decades of motor building has been, that you get AT BEST what you pay for. Meaning, if you PAY the least, you GET the least - or maybe even less than you thought could possibly be "the least". There's no mystery in this. It costs money to do machine work, buy parts, and all that, and NOBODY can stay in business for long if they sell their product for less than it costs to make it. So if you see something selling for a very low price, then what does that tell you about the cost (value) in it? Now I'm not saying that paying a HIGH price is some kind of guarantee that you'll get ALOT; only, that paying the LOWEST price, guarantees that you'll get THE LEAST product.
But then again, maybe power isn't important to the original poster. Maybe he's just trying to get his car back on the road, and doesn't much care beyond that, as long as it WORKS. In that case, he might as well buy the cheeeepest short block he can find (which that one might be), and stick on it whatever heads he has; because no matter what we tell him here, that's what he's going to do anyway. After all, all he wants to know is, is this a decent short block for the money, or not. I don't recall him asking for a bunch of spank-off about somebody's van.
OK....
Enough of the soapbox!!
06-16-2006, 11:58 AM
#23
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
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Axle/Gears: 3.42
quick question... in my search for a new motor (keep in mind i need this quick)
would it be a bad idea to pick up a 98 tahoe 350 vortec for $1000???
id slap my vbelt accessories on, and carb though... good idea or bad idea??
it has 80k miles
would it be a bad idea to pick up a 98 tahoe 350 vortec for $1000???
id slap my vbelt accessories on, and carb though... good idea or bad idea??
it has 80k miles
06-16-2006, 12:19 PM
#24
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 14 bolt with 3.07 gears
As far as the factory Vortec 350, they are great engines, just the price is a little steep for 80K miles. If that is everything, it might be OK. Sell the intake, sensors, harness, PCM, accessories on EBAY, keep the long-block and it might not be too bad.
I don't recall him asking about the flow of swirlies either. You said swirlies are crap, but have yet to present proof. That mindset is here ALOT around thirdgen.org and fullsizechevy.com. Do some testing, you might impress yourself
As far as the HP of my engine, STOCK CAM, STOCK EXHAUST, STOCK HEADS, STOCK TBI, tuned for TOWING (not that radical)
Originally Posted by sofakingdom
I don't recall him asking for a bunch of spank-off about somebody's van.
As far as the HP of my engine, STOCK CAM, STOCK EXHAUST, STOCK HEADS, STOCK TBI, tuned for TOWING (not that radical)
Last edited by Fast355; 06-16-2006 at 12:24 PM.
06-16-2006, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by nelapse
quick question... in my search for a new motor (keep in mind i need this quick)
would it be a bad idea to pick up a 98 tahoe 350 vortec for $1000???
id slap my vbelt accessories on, and carb though... good idea or bad idea??
it has 80k miles
would it be a bad idea to pick up a 98 tahoe 350 vortec for $1000???
id slap my vbelt accessories on, and carb though... good idea or bad idea??
it has 80k miles
$699 isn't a bad deal for a built, balanced shortblock with no core. (there is no core, right?).
You don't get much for $1,000.. Here is my motor build:
Machine work (decking, align boring mains, boring .040 over, honing, hot tanking, freeze plugs, cam bearings, polish + radius crank, angle mill heads, etc etc etc) $1100
H-beam rods: $450
JE pistons: $510
Rings: $105
Main + rod bearings: $100
Steel crank: $400
Timing set: $80
oil pump, screen, shaft, and pan gasket w/ seal: $100
Heads: $1100
Cam: $249
Head gaskets, intake, exhaust: $100
Lifters: $259
Pushrods: $35
Roller rockers: $200
And thats just a long block
miniram: $1200
58mm tb: $310
Dizzy: $150
Coil/Cap/Rotor: $130
Ignition box: $170
Still interested in this hobby?
-- Joe
06-16-2006, 12:29 PM
#27
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
i found an 88 truck tbi 350 for 600... unknown miles but apparently ran... dude from junkyard said he had no time to get the numbers...
yeah 1000 is kinda steep... i just need a decent 350 now...all im going to do is put a cam in it and call it a day until i get my crap together...
just in a bind for an engine...
yeah 1000 is kinda steep... i just need a decent 350 now...all im going to do is put a cam in it and call it a day until i get my crap together...
just in a bind for an engine...
06-16-2006, 12:29 PM
#28
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
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Axle/Gears: 3.42
oh and a 350 from a 91 caprice for same price... miles unknown as well... any ideas?
----------
Still interested in this hobby?
-- Joe some people call it a hobby... some call it an obsession... i call it the only thing in the world worth fighting for...
i might go get this 600 motor.... would you take a hit at the 91 caprice or 88 truck?
----------
Originally Posted by anesthes
Still interested in this hobby?
-- Joe
i might go get this 600 motor.... would you take a hit at the 91 caprice or 88 truck?
Last edited by nelapse; 06-16-2006 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
06-16-2006, 12:39 PM
#29
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
Engine: 305 TPI
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Originally Posted by nelapse
dude chill.... i need some advice...
I need to get my stuff up and running...
I need to get my stuff up and running...
06-16-2006, 12:40 PM
#30
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
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Originally Posted by nelapse
oh and a 350 from a 91 caprice for same price... miles unknown as well... any ideas?
----------
some people call it a hobby... some call it an obsession... i call it the only thing in the world worth fighting for...
i might go get this 600 motor.... would you take a hit at the 91 caprice or 88 truck?
----------
some people call it a hobby... some call it an obsession... i call it the only thing in the world worth fighting for...
i might go get this 600 motor.... would you take a hit at the 91 caprice or 88 truck?
I just sold a l98 outta my vette. Alum heads, 60psi oil pressure, etc for $500. If you wanna spend $600 on an iron headed smog motor, go right ahead.
Stop RUSHING. relax, calm down, have a cold one. For $1000 you should be able to score a freaking LT1 used.
-- Joe
06-16-2006, 12:41 PM
#31
06-16-2006, 12:43 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by anesthes
Only thing in the world worth fighting for? I guess you were never in the military.
-- Joe
-- Joe
however i fully understand where you are coming from. So what would you do
You have a $1000 budget... to get a 350 motor in your car that runs...
i have all accessories and intake/ induction... etc
06-16-2006, 12:50 PM
#33
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Car: 1987 IROC 1991 RS
Engine: 5.7 TPI 5.0 TBI
Transmission: T-5 , 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 twice
Originally Posted by Fast355
OPEN your eyes. The swirl ports are not that bad.
I am making 218 RWHP/339 RWTQ with a stock 350 cam and STOCK 810 casting swirl ports with stock exhaust manifolds and a stock 2bbl TBI unit. Keep in mind this engine is only 8.75:1 compression as well! The swirl ports will give better performance from idle-5,000 with the stock cam than ANY other stock head, with the exception of maybe the Vortecs. You will use a hell of a lot less gas using swirl ports.
218 RWHP/339 RWTQ as it sits
Pushing 5,500lbs of aerodynamic brick into the wind, not to bad is it.
Why I like my swirl ports
Again
I ran 68 lb/hr injectors static at 15 psi at 3,900 RPM. That means that I had fuel for 255-260 FWHP
PS-My 312 pulled 240 RWHP with UNTOUCHED 187s on it.
I am making 218 RWHP/339 RWTQ with a stock 350 cam and STOCK 810 casting swirl ports with stock exhaust manifolds and a stock 2bbl TBI unit. Keep in mind this engine is only 8.75:1 compression as well! The swirl ports will give better performance from idle-5,000 with the stock cam than ANY other stock head, with the exception of maybe the Vortecs. You will use a hell of a lot less gas using swirl ports.
218 RWHP/339 RWTQ as it sits
Pushing 5,500lbs of aerodynamic brick into the wind, not to bad is it.
Why I like my swirl ports
Again
I ran 68 lb/hr injectors static at 15 psi at 3,900 RPM. That means that I had fuel for 255-260 FWHP
PS-My 312 pulled 240 RWHP with UNTOUCHED 187s on it.
Nice Van.
06-16-2006, 01:32 PM
#34
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If you have only a $1000 budget, try to spend as much on the motor itself, and as little on shipping, as possible. 
Considering that $1000 for a motor is already unrealistically low, you need to watch every penny.
In other words, look around locally, first.
I don't see anything at all in that eBay motor that can't be readily duplicated practically anywhere in the country. The parts are all just ordinary stuff; it comes down to how much you trust the machine work and assembly, and the warranty (if any).
A good running used motor could easily be a better bet, as stated. Don't forget, you're still going to have to buy gaskets, fluids, and who knows how many "might as wells" (water pump, engine mounts, spark plugs, hoses & belts, etc. etc. etc.) when you go to put this thing in, plus any head work or whatever other services. Maybe rent a cherry picker too, if you don't have one. All that stuff adds up REAL QUICK. If you REALLY have only $1000 to spend, then paying $800 for the short block, and $???? for shipping on top of that, gives a pretty low probability of finishing the project.
All in all, regardless of all the rest of that, that motor doesn't look like the immediate solution to your situation.
Considering that $1000 for a motor is already unrealistically low, you need to watch every penny.In other words, look around locally, first.
I don't see anything at all in that eBay motor that can't be readily duplicated practically anywhere in the country. The parts are all just ordinary stuff; it comes down to how much you trust the machine work and assembly, and the warranty (if any).
A good running used motor could easily be a better bet, as stated. Don't forget, you're still going to have to buy gaskets, fluids, and who knows how many "might as wells" (water pump, engine mounts, spark plugs, hoses & belts, etc. etc. etc.) when you go to put this thing in, plus any head work or whatever other services. Maybe rent a cherry picker too, if you don't have one. All that stuff adds up REAL QUICK. If you REALLY have only $1000 to spend, then paying $800 for the short block, and $???? for shipping on top of that, gives a pretty low probability of finishing the project.
All in all, regardless of all the rest of that, that motor doesn't look like the immediate solution to your situation.
06-16-2006, 01:47 PM
#35
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
If you just need to be running quickly, look for a used 305/350 out of a granny driven type of vehicle. Caprice, Cutlass, etc. Rear ended or something.
Spend up to $500, then put it in. Probably up to $1000 once the smoke clears, like sofa mentioned, on all the little bits. That'll get you from A-B while you get some more $$, and you can build a better motor to replace it.
Spend up to $500, then put it in. Probably up to $1000 once the smoke clears, like sofa mentioned, on all the little bits. That'll get you from A-B while you get some more $$, and you can build a better motor to replace it.
06-16-2006, 06:43 PM
#36
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Car: GTA
Engine: 383 HSR
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here is what im going to do... feel free to back me up or disagree..
purchase the 91 caprice motor for $600.
buy new head gaskets, head bolts, rear main seal, oil pump pick up, and freshen the stuff up. i will buy some plasti-gage and check the mains. yes, i do not know the miles... but i need a motor that runs. if i can get some sort of warranty like 90 days which seems to be standard then im good with that.
i will get you the casting numbers in a few minutes for the sets of heads I own and look them on on mortec
purchase the 91 caprice motor for $600.
buy new head gaskets, head bolts, rear main seal, oil pump pick up, and freshen the stuff up. i will buy some plasti-gage and check the mains. yes, i do not know the miles... but i need a motor that runs. if i can get some sort of warranty like 90 days which seems to be standard then im good with that.
i will get you the casting numbers in a few minutes for the sets of heads I own and look them on on mortec
06-16-2006, 06:53 PM
#37
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Originally Posted by nelapse
here is what im going to do... feel free to back me up or disagree..
purchase the 91 caprice motor for $600.
buy new head gaskets, head bolts, rear main seal, oil pump pick up, and freshen the stuff up. i will buy some plasti-gage and check the mains. yes, i do not know the miles... but i need a motor that runs. if i can get some sort of warranty like 90 days which seems to be standard then im good with that.
i will get you the casting numbers in a few minutes for the sets of heads I own and look them on on mortec
purchase the 91 caprice motor for $600.
buy new head gaskets, head bolts, rear main seal, oil pump pick up, and freshen the stuff up. i will buy some plasti-gage and check the mains. yes, i do not know the miles... but i need a motor that runs. if i can get some sort of warranty like 90 days which seems to be standard then im good with that.
i will get you the casting numbers in a few minutes for the sets of heads I own and look them on on mortec
06-16-2006, 07:06 PM
#38
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Originally Posted by Fast355
I am about to pick up a 3.4 for my sisters 88 S10 Blazer. She just bought a house and is broke, then her 2.8 died. $200.00 for the engine with a 90 day warrenty. I am going to tear it apart, clean it up, re-ring, new bearings, and all new seals, gaskets. It will be getting a new water pump, fan clutch, belt, hoses, wires, cap, rotor, plugs, pcv, etc. I have already told her it will run around $1K by the time it is said and done.
anyways heres the casting numbers for my heads
14014416...80-86...305..........1.84"/1.5" valves, 58cc chambers
462624.....75-86...350/400......76cc chamber, 1.72/1.5, 1.94/1.5 or 2.02/1.6 valves
14102193...87-up...305/350......1.94"/1.5" valves
all from mortec
06-16-2006, 08:50 PM
#39
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All very familiar head castings, many referenced by number in various of the postings above...
If it was mine, I'd use the 416s. If you're also using your TBI manifold, you might have to slot your center 2 intake bolt holes on each side. Also, you'll need the early style (perimeter bolt) valve covers.
That combo, with moderately thick (.039" more or less) head gaskets, will give you mid-high 9s of CR; 9.7 or so. That's about the same that the sucky 305 TBI heads will give, but they'll run a whole lot better. Either would run better than the 624s. THe 624s will give you just a generally weak and unresponsive motor. The TBI heads will give you one of those motors that you step on the gas and feel this great rush of grunt, but it falls off fast; the higher the RPMs go, the less you get; you know the kind, one of those motors that will spin the tires all day long, but can't pass a semi on a 2-mile stretch of flat interstate. Kind of like you see on here if you just read, where people talk about their huge smoky burnouts but run high in the 16s in the quarter.
Let us know how it turns out.
If it was mine, I'd use the 416s. If you're also using your TBI manifold, you might have to slot your center 2 intake bolt holes on each side. Also, you'll need the early style (perimeter bolt) valve covers.
That combo, with moderately thick (.039" more or less) head gaskets, will give you mid-high 9s of CR; 9.7 or so. That's about the same that the sucky 305 TBI heads will give, but they'll run a whole lot better. Either would run better than the 624s. THe 624s will give you just a generally weak and unresponsive motor. The TBI heads will give you one of those motors that you step on the gas and feel this great rush of grunt, but it falls off fast; the higher the RPMs go, the less you get; you know the kind, one of those motors that will spin the tires all day long, but can't pass a semi on a 2-mile stretch of flat interstate. Kind of like you see on here if you just read, where people talk about their huge smoky burnouts but run high in the 16s in the quarter.
Let us know how it turns out.
06-16-2006, 09:58 PM
#40
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Car: 1983 G20 Chevy
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Originally Posted by sofakingdom
All very familiar head castings, many referenced by number in various of the postings above...
If it was mine, I'd use the 416s. If you're also using your TBI manifold, you might have to slot your center 2 intake bolt holes on each side. Also, you'll need the early style (perimeter bolt) valve covers.
That combo, with moderately thick (.039" more or less) head gaskets, will give you mid-high 9s of CR; 9.7 or so. That's about the same that the sucky 305 TBI heads will give, but they'll run a whole lot better. Either would run better than the 624s. THe 624s will give you just a generally weak and unresponsive motor. The TBI heads will give you one of those motors that you step on the gas and feel this great rush of grunt, but it falls off fast; the higher the RPMs go, the less you get; you know the kind, one of those motors that will spin the tires all day long, but can't pass a semi on a 2-mile stretch of flat interstate. Kind of like you see on here if you just read, where people talk about their huge smoky burnouts but run high in the 16s in the quarter.
Let us know how it turns out.
If it was mine, I'd use the 416s. If you're also using your TBI manifold, you might have to slot your center 2 intake bolt holes on each side. Also, you'll need the early style (perimeter bolt) valve covers.
That combo, with moderately thick (.039" more or less) head gaskets, will give you mid-high 9s of CR; 9.7 or so. That's about the same that the sucky 305 TBI heads will give, but they'll run a whole lot better. Either would run better than the 624s. THe 624s will give you just a generally weak and unresponsive motor. The TBI heads will give you one of those motors that you step on the gas and feel this great rush of grunt, but it falls off fast; the higher the RPMs go, the less you get; you know the kind, one of those motors that will spin the tires all day long, but can't pass a semi on a 2-mile stretch of flat interstate. Kind of like you see on here if you just read, where people talk about their huge smoky burnouts but run high in the 16s in the quarter.
Let us know how it turns out.
The 193s are 350 TBI heads, not 305.
Stock 193s will walk all over stock 416s in everything.
06-16-2006, 11:01 PM
#41
06-17-2006, 04:34 AM
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I think the original poster should contact the seller to find out answers to all these questions. I'm also about to build a new motor and I've decided I will be buying one of these 357ci rebuilt 4 bolt main bottom ends through E-bay (seller I want to use is called Fast 5.0). I already know what heads I'm gonna use, called the guy up on the phone and was able to get all the specs I wanted/needed. I'll agree that you should always expect to get what you paid for, these are cheap bottom ends and you shouldn't expect too much out of them. With shipping included it would cost me right around $1000 to get the new bottom end to my door, a comparable build here locally is at least $1500. Alot of these guys can make you a custom combo of parts if you call em, say you wanted to use different pistons or something, they can do it. But you won't know until you call em and start asking questions. I wouldn't expect these bottom ends to be able to handle any more abuse than a stock bottom end, the main plus is they are rebuilt w/ 0 miles so I can make sure its properly maintained and stuff (who knows with used stuff). Once you get the new bottom end then you can swap the cam or do whatever while you put it together.
06-17-2006, 06:09 AM
#43
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The 193s are 350 TBI heads, not 305.
So: The 193s are EVEN WORSE than the 305 TBI heads, because they'll give lower compression, ON TOP OF having that restrictive ramp thing in the intake port, basically a giant extra lump of casting right in the most sensitive part of the bowl, that kills their flow.
Which argues even more heavily in favor of using the 416s.
06-17-2006, 07:53 AM
#44
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Car: GTA
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Originally Posted by CrazyHawaiian
I think the original poster should contact the seller to find out answers to all these questions. I'm also about to build a new motor and I've decided I will be buying one of these 357ci rebuilt 4 bolt main bottom ends through E-bay (seller I want to use is called Fast 5.0). I already know what heads I'm gonna use, called the guy up on the phone and was able to get all the specs I wanted/needed. I'll agree that you should always expect to get what you paid for, these are cheap bottom ends and you shouldn't expect too much out of them. With shipping included it would cost me right around $1000 to get the new bottom end to my door, a comparable build here locally is at least $1500. Alot of these guys can make you a custom combo of parts if you call em, say you wanted to use different pistons or something, they can do it. But you won't know until you call em and start asking questions. I wouldn't expect these bottom ends to be able to handle any more abuse than a stock bottom end, the main plus is they are rebuilt w/ 0 miles so I can make sure its properly maintained and stuff (who knows with used stuff). Once you get the new bottom end then you can swap the cam or do whatever while you put it together.
06-17-2006, 02:00 PM
#45
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Car: GTA
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Here is the engine I bought. waved $500 dollars and got it. instead of $600
14093638...350...87-95...2 or 4...Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal
heads are another set of these:
14102193...87-up...305/350......1.94"/1.5" valves
I have a 90 day warranty against anything... leaks... smoking... anything.
They were pretty professional... im pleased for the moment. Now its time to order things from summit and get these heads rebuilt.
14093638...350...87-95...2 or 4...Roller or flat tappet cam, one-piece rear seal
heads are another set of these:
14102193...87-up...305/350......1.94"/1.5" valves
I have a 90 day warranty against anything... leaks... smoking... anything.
They were pretty professional... im pleased for the moment. Now its time to order things from summit
and get these heads rebuilt. 
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