Flamethrower kit...
#1
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Flamethrower kit...
Well my buddy (for whatever reason) has decided he wants to put a flamethrower kit in his car. Now the kit came with the sparkplugs and bungs to weld in the exhaust tips, brain box, switch and some crappy instructions.
One thing that we need to try to figure out is the wiring. The diagram shows how to rig it up for an external coil ignition but hes got a coil-in-cap HEI. anyone know how we would go about rigging this up?
One thing that we need to try to figure out is the wiring. The diagram shows how to rig it up for an external coil ignition but hes got a coil-in-cap HEI. anyone know how we would go about rigging this up?
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Car: 86 CAMARO
Engine: 92-350 +.030
Transmission: 86-th400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
momentary push button on the 12v feed to the coil. he said he had a "brain box" so im not sure of the rest of the wiring without more info. i have seen old school hookups using a gas grill ignighter.
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
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you would need somethign to pulse the coil though. I would hope the "brain box" would do so. but if it was designed to run off the stock coil that would be a no no as having the stock ignition pulses PLUS the pulses of the box your car wouldn't run very well if they all go through the spark wires.
just having the the coil fed 12v constant voltage wouldn't do anything as the secondary windings wouldn't see anything.
just having the the coil fed 12v constant voltage wouldn't do anything as the secondary windings wouldn't see anything.
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Car: 86 CAMARO
Engine: 92-350 +.030
Transmission: 86-th400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
rx7, correct me if im wrong. but on an oldschool remote coil you applied 12v to it via the ignition switch on the positive post, then the points made the circuit to ground on the neg post ? so if you grounded the neg post and momenaarily applied +12 through a switch it should fire the coil ?
i havent seen a diagram for one of these kits on a new install but i wouldnt wire it to anything thats running my motor.
i havent seen a diagram for one of these kits on a new install but i wouldnt wire it to anything thats running my motor.
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Car: 86 CAMARO
Engine: 92-350 +.030
Transmission: 86-th400
Axle/Gears: 3.73
84, just went to flamethrower web site at axdo.net there is a pretty simple wiring diagram there and yes you need to get a remote coil not the one running the car or a hei in cap style.
rx, that site shows the "brain box" switching the +12 to the coil. (using a remote coil)
rx, that site shows the "brain box" switching the +12 to the coil. (using a remote coil)
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Car: 2005 BMW 545i
Engine: 4.4L N62B44
Transmission: 6spd auto
Axle/Gears: Rotating
Originally Posted by SPIKE
rx7, correct me if im wrong. but on an oldschool remote coil you applied 12v to it via the ignition switch on the positive post, then the points made the circuit to ground on the neg post ? so if you grounded the neg post and momenaarily applied +12 through a switch it should fire the coil ?
i havent seen a diagram for one of these kits on a new install but i wouldnt wire it to anything thats running my motor.
i havent seen a diagram for one of these kits on a new install but i wouldnt wire it to anything thats running my motor.
your right
the old school system using points would ground ou through them. they way it worked is it would constantly open and close the points turning the juice on and off depending on your rpms. it woudl create a kinda fluctuating DC current at the coil which the coil sees as A/C. for a voltage to be applied on the secondary windings of a coil you need to have A/C for it to work.
if you just sit there and apply a 12v source chances are you are not going to get much of a spark.
when you apply the 12v source to the coil it creates a magnetic field which then cuts through the wires on the secondary coil creating a current on teh secondary field. when the current is cut off from the primary coil the field collapses again cutting through the lines on the secondary coil creating another small stream of current of opposite polarity. when you just apply the current to the primary of the coil and hold it there sure you get this small thing for split second but then the meganetic field quits cutting through the wires and no more current gets generated. so just steady current won't do much
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
you also need to run pig rich while you do that don't you?
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