Not really pertaining to brakes, so it's in general engine

I was thinking of putting my line lock switch on the top of my shifter ball, as a momentary push button. Hold it down to keep the front brakes locked. Never installed or used a line lock before, those that have (or just have an opinion ) think this is a good idea? Or should I use a SPST push button there? Or move the button elsewhere?

Thanks

 

I wouldn't put it there, or use a momentary switch. Sounds like too much room for accident.

 

exactly. What would happen if you brushed it accidentally on the freeway?

 

Or if you let go of it during a burnout.

 

...... doesn't a line lock just lock the current line pressure? So if i'm not holding the front brakes, and hit the lock, it will lock the "normal" pressure... doing absolutely nothing?
but I get the gist... perhaps between the power window switches? or ashtray? or by the light switch? then, momentary, or toggle?

finally a usage question: hold brakes, lock line, then should I be revving up and dumping in 1st or 2nd gear generally?

thanks
----------
if I let go during a burnout, I end up doing a rolling burnout, which is ok right? That's kinda the idea

 

I've got the B&M T-handle with the built in switch p/n 80658 on two cars, never had a problem.

 

They're normally just an electric solenoid that blocks the fluid from exiting, but lets fluid enter. Some are manual types, which I do not recommend. You literally throw a lever and lock fluid into the line.

Overall pretty easy to use. Hold the button, pump the brakes a few times, stop pumping, and all the pressure stays in the lines until you release the button. I had one DOA out of the box from Hurst. It failed in open mode, so I couldn't get it to hold any pressure.

If you plan on passing Tech Inspection you need to put it past the junction. If you don't plan on going to the track or having picky Techs you can install it in front of the junction and that way the brake light in the dash comes on when you enable it. The correct way would be to put it after the junction though.

 

i'm getting a biondo one, not sure of it's style....

after the junction would mean you need two line locks, or one with dual in dual outs right?

I was going to put it right by the master cylinder. I don't forsee any techs looking under my hood.

 

You should put it after the combination/proportioning valve. The Summit valve I got had dual ports so I could put a line on each port.

 

the one i'm getting is single in, single out.

I'm not sure where the proportioning/combination valve is.... Is it bad to put it right at the MC?

 

I agree with the first responding person of this thread. Put it on the dash somewhere or hid it near the drivers side. DO NOT put it on the shifter. you are asking for big...BIG trouble. Trust me

 

Trouble hasn't answered for several years. It really isn't a problem. I can see a lot more problems with a non-monentary switch on the dash.

The combination/proportioning valve is the brass-colored block the lines go into under the master cylinder. If you put the solenoid between the MC and prop valve, you'll have pressure on the front brake side of the valve and none on the back brake side. Not a big deal, necessarily, but not the best, either.

Any particular reason for the Biondo? The dual ports made life a whole lot easier.

 

five 7, you have a momentary button on your shifter or toggle?

you also have an auto, so you're using your shifter less then me i'd guess, so less chance of problems, but anyway, i'll decide on where i'll go for it.

biondo was due to lack of knowledge to tell the truth. I just bought the 2nd cheapest line lock really. biondo over summits due to the rebuildability, even though it was $4 more. I ordered it today from summit, so it's probably in the mail by now.

....ok, went out and looked, I see the combo/prop valve then, dual inputs for front and rear, and 3 outs, 1 rear (splits at axle), and front left and front right coming out. I guess with a single in/single out like I will be getting soon, I have no choice but to put it between MC and prop valve eh?

 

I put mine between the MC and valve. It's also single in single out. Works well enough to my liking.

 

Im using the B & M shifter handle with button and it works flawless. I cant remember where exaclty how I put mine inline but I did have to use compression fittings to keep the factory fittings. With the button on the shifter handle you have total control on the line lock. If you mount it on the dash you have to go search for it.

 

Momentary. That's what the B&M T-handle p/n I gave you is. Comes with the switch.

 

oh cool, I had to look that up to see that it's applicable to me, thanks!
my hurst shifter has a 3/8NC thread on it, so I could use that handle. Out of curiosity, where does the wiring leave the handle? very bottom, or the side? It's a little ambiguous in the picture.
I'd prefer to hide the wiring as much as possible (as much as you can given the handle has a big button on top...)

 

I have that handle too , man it's sweet. But I have yet to hook up the line loc . Need install kit

 

care to share if you know where the wiring comes out?

my local speedshop has one on the shelf for $37, that's close to summit pricing, and in Canada?!? It's my lucky day.



and finally, the line lock has 1/8" NPT threads, can I cut my hardline, and put a pipe thread on it, or do I have to flare it and put on a 3/16" inverted flare fitting, going into an NPT adapter?

 

The wiring comes out the bottom near the center. Isn't particularly easy to hide, I put a tie wrap around the shifter lever to keep it out of the way.

Get 1/8 NPT male to 3/16 flare female adapters. Then you won't have to cut anything.

 

aces, I grabbed 2 of those on the way home, I guess I can just bend the tube back and put it in the LL and be good to go.

Thanks!

 

I have a B&M megashifter w/ the shift **** and button. I have never had a problem w/ the button being activated on accident. You would have to be hitting the brakes, and you would have to hold the button rather than just tap it to cause any problems. I used to have mine on the dash, but putting it on the shifter **** works a lot better.

 

You'll need a piece of brake line, too. Guess I should have been more specific.

 

Will this method make it NHRA legal then ?

 

the line looks like 3/16" but the fitting going into the booster and prop valve look larger than a standard 3/16" flare fitting... hmm, i'll find out soon enough, when I get it in the mail, and get to putting it in.,..

 

I've never had problems tech'ing.

 

We just put the line lock in the Camaro less than 3 weeks ago. We took the outlet lines off of the prop valve and put them on the solenoid using the adapters, added a line from one of the prop valve outlets to the solenoid inlet, again using an adapter on the solenoid, and plugged the other prop valve outlet port. Bled the system, wired the solenoid, and we were done. The brakes work just like they did before in normal operation, and the linelock holds fine for the burnouts.

Since the solenoid you have coming only has one port, you can still do it this way if you get a block to join the two front brake lines together after the solenoid. But, you probably won't have any problems putting it between the MC & prop valve.

 

five7kid.... PLEASE fill me in on the addapters you used. I am soooo very lost. And my entire project is on a standstill till I can get this stuff sorted out. THanks for your help.
-Dennis

 

Bringing this back, because I finally got around to putting in my line lock here . Car had a bit of downtime due to driveline problem, and I had some time...

Ok, so I removed the 6" or so line from the BACK side of the MC (back = front brakes eh?), I put in a 2' line from the MC, to my line lock, mounted onto the wheel well. Then the other side of the lock went to the prop valve, where the old 6" line went. So far so good. I bled the brakes like crazy. I went through an obnoxious amount of fluid, but no bubbles so...

I wired it up with 16/2 speaker wire. From the batter, 5A fuse, to line lock, from line lock to shifter handle momentary switch, from switch back to battery neg. So far so good.

I can flick the line lock and get a nice "click". Release the button and get another "click". Sounds great right?

Ok, so I roll the car out of the driveway, (slight decline), holding the brakes to hold the car still, hold the line lock button, release brakes. I assume it's going to stay still. Not so much - it just rolls.
???
Any ideas why this would happen? Or what I could try? I figure I would get the car up on stands and spin a front tire, then get someone to hold the brakes and make sure they stop. Then hold line lock, and let off brakes and see if I can turn the wheel. Assuming I can...??

 

Anybody have any troubles with a line lock? Mine doesn't seem to do anything at all, just nice and decorative. It clicks, but doesn't do anything..?

 

My first Hurst was DOA.

Usually you have to pump the brakes up a little bit. A single pump on my Hurst is not enough to hold the car in place.

 

Is it installed the wrong way around?

Kindof a dumb thing to do, but ya never know...

 

I figured it's bi directional, it doesn't show an "in/out" on it... Man, that'd be silly, i'm gonna go check that one now... haha...

Pump the brakes you say? I did try that, a few pumps, but I didn't think that was how it worked, I thought it just locks the current pressure as is, and pumping it wouldn't do anything... Hmm, well if you say so, i'll give it a shot.

 

If it is one that allows you to 'pump up' the brakes while the solenoid is active it will definately not function if its backwards!!!

It would allow all the pressure to release and block you from pumping it up!



But who knows, it might be abi-directional one that doesnt allow you to pump up the brakes with the solenoid active....

 

Ok, nope, it's the right direction as the instructions, not that it's that well labeled, but the shorter side is towards the master cylinder just like in their instructions

 

ok then, try this....


Go to your toolbox...


Grab the biggest hammer you got...


Walk over to the car...

AND BEAT THE LIVING HELL OUT OF IT!!!!!

 

oh man, lately? That sounds about right for what this POS deserves...

 

I like your idea of testing that the front brakes are still functioning 100%

Their may be some air in there still!

 

Ok, drove it around a bit, and tested it some more.
It kicks on the "brake" light on the dash (?)

But anyway, if i'm holding the brakes, and flick it on, and let go of the brake pedal, it'll roll back.
If I flick it on, and pump it a bit, it's hit or miss.
But if I flick it on just as I push the brakes about half way or so, then it seems to hold. At least hold the car on a moderate slope. Hmm, I guess I just have to learn how to use it right. I might try a burnout with it and see if I can figure out how to get it to hold the car.
Thanks

 

Yep mine brings the brake light on also in the dash.

That's kinda weird about pumping thing.

 

Update:

After looking at the instructions carefully, I realized I routed the lines to it "funny". The solenoid is mounted "straight", ie, not sideways in the car. I put the "input" line over, down, and into the FRONT, and the output coming out of the backside of the line lock. For some reason I must have had a brain fart while I was looking at the lines before. I now realized that it's in backwards. I simply disco'd the lines, hope I didn't leak too much fluid, and spun it 180* and bolted it back in.

Lo and behold it works. Well, at least it'll hold the car on my tilted driveway. I intend to go see if it works to hold the car now.

As per usual with my problems, I overlook the painfully obvious. Thanks though guys!