ekellock

I'm brand new with Firebird diagnostics and have done some quick preliminary research and checking, so please bear with me.

Yesterday the first sign of trouble was when it took 10 tries to start. It would fire but run poorly and die, then it finally started and ran fine. Next start was okay. Then the 3rd time it wouldn't fire at all.

The starter will spin the engine great, but it won't fire.

I used a spare spark plug on the #1 plug wire and got nothing. I then put it on the coil wire and it was clicking rapidly. It was bright daylight so I couldn't see the spark but I could definitely hear it.

I jumpered pins 5 & 6 on the DLC connector under the dash and got nothing but the double-flash over and over again.

So, I've read that a faulty oil pressure sending unit could cause a no-start, or fuel pump relay or the fuel pump.

Any tips on checking these 3 items or any other common or quick things to check?

This is my girlfriend's car and I had to get up a 4am to take her to the airport this morning and I'd really like to get it running before she gets back.

Thanks,
Ed
Colorado Springs

Token

Hey Ed, welcome. Check for spark and fuel before you do anything drastic.

SaintedCorrupt

I'm gonna assume you have a small cap HEI with seperate coil, if you were able to jump the coil with a spare plug. If youre getting spark from the coil but not to the plug, its gotta be something inside the dizzy. my money's on a module. Problem with that theory is usually modules just go all at once, not like what you had with a hard start before it ran. Truth be told, it could be any number of sensors. I've had the water temp sensor (in the manifold) stop spark before. Mechanical damage on something inside the cap might cause this too. thats all i can think of at the moment

like Token said, check fuel and spark before anything. find out what's not working and trace the problem from there.

ekellock

Thanks for the replies guys. I had done the ignition check and the code reading and was thinking fuel pump. I bought a Chilton and read "remove gas tank from vehicle" and was not impressed. I then cracked a fuel line at the throttle body and got no fuel, but I had read enough of Chilton and online to know there are modules that manipulate signals to allow the distributor and fuel pump to operate. So I took it to a mechanic. $590 and "it's the worst one we've done" and we're back on the road. I'm not unfamiliar with in-tank fuel pumps but my Audi has an access hole in the trunk. It's not comfortable but it's a whole lot easier. Until it comes time to replace the timing belt every 60k.

Thanks again,
Ed