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Tilt Steering Bolt Stripped!!! Please Help

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Old 04-20-2006, 11:38 PM
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Tilt Steering Bolt Stripped!!! Please Help

I finally got my entire column apart, down to the 4 tilt steering bolts that needed tightening. I started to tighten the upper right hand bolt and right when it got tight, it stripped and got loose.

The bolt itself looks fine, so it seems that it is stripped inside the column!!! What is my best option here?

The other 2 bolts tightened up great, the 4th I cant get to because of the dimmer rod.

Would 3 of the 4 be good enough, or am I going to have to drill it and tap it with a larger bolt?

Any help is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!!
Old 04-21-2006, 08:34 AM
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The bolt itself looks fine, so it seems that it is stripped inside the column!!! What is my best option here?
3/4 ain't gonna work right. If you can get it back buttoned up, do so and drive to the nearest boneyard, slap down $30-$50 for another steering column. Pull off the wheel and ignition cylinder and you'll be done before you can find your drill to tap out that hole.
Old 04-21-2006, 09:05 AM
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You might see what just that aluminum tilt column base piece costs new at the dealer... Errr, crap, its been a while since the last one of these I've done... Anybody got a blowup diagram of a steering column?
Old 04-21-2006, 09:09 AM
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That might be a good option. My turn signal lever is loose (maybe broken, and my brights lingage doesnt work either. There is an exact 91 RS in the junkyard by my house that has a V6. I assume the steering columns are exact? Hopefully that column isnt loose as well!

Where exactly does the steering column disconnect at?

IS this really easier than just threading a new bolt in?? Seems like it would be a PITA to route all those wires back up through the column.
Old 04-21-2006, 09:25 AM
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It is UNBELIEVABLY easy to swap a steering column. Takes like 15 minutes from drive-in to drive-out, if you stop for a couple of cold ones along the way.

4 nuts at the bottom edge of the dash; 3 screws at the firewall; and one bolt & nut where it joins the steering shaft. Then, 1 plug for the TS switch wiring, 2 plugs at the ignition switch, 1 plug for the dimmer switch, and maybe one plug for the cruise control.

There is no feeding of wires required.

You'll want to either get the ignition key for the column you're getting, or move your existing lock cylinder to the new column.
Old 04-21-2006, 12:31 PM
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Now hopefully the 2 that i've seen at the junkyards don't have loose steering wheels!

I'm guess I'll go out to the junkyard today or tomorrow morning to see what I can find.
Old 04-21-2006, 12:36 PM
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Well even if they're loose, now you know how to fix them.

The one you've got now, is pretty much toast. That crappy chinesium casting down in there is what stripped. So no matter what you need another. You kind of don't have much choice any more. Unless you feel like going to enough trouble to tear it down and Heli-Coil it.
Old 04-21-2006, 01:39 PM
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Sofakingdom speaks the truth. - Yes, every thirdgen 84-92 column is the same. 82-83 are slightly different, I don't think they are tilt, and I also don't think they have intermittent wipers...

WHen your changing out the lock cylinder use only as much force as necessary to depress the lock plate. I went to town on it and something snapped inside....... result = wobbly wheel and turn signals that turn on every time I turn right.
Old 04-21-2006, 01:45 PM
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Tilt & intermittent were available in 83 at least.

My 83 has both.

Pretty sure they were available in 82 as well. They'd been available in other car models for years and years before; I have a 74 with tilt, for example.

Just the same, newer is probably better; less chance of the wobble, less wear, etc. I'd stay away from 82-83 and be looking at 91-92, if possible.
Old 04-21-2006, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by bobdole369
Yes, every thirdgen 84-92 column is the same
Airbag columns like the one for this 91 are different than non-airbag ones for 82-89. Also, be sure and get the key with the nused column. If the vats wires aren't broken on it, you can have a new key made to work the nused column with your vats chip on it, or have to go to the trouble and swap out your old cylinder into the nused column.
Old 04-21-2006, 02:40 PM
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Couldn't I just put my old ignition cylinder in the new one and just connect the old wire to the new one for the Vats?

I need to decide soon on this. I am going tomorrow morning to try and get a steering column.

I still don't understand why the whole steering column swap is easier than fixing one bad threaded bolt hole. Will those thread repair kits not do the job? The other 2 bolts are nice and tight now, and the one i cant tighten up seems tight.
Old 04-21-2006, 02:50 PM
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Ever been driving down the road and have your steering column fall apart in your lap? You're driving along with the wheel in your hands, but you might just as well throw it out the window because it's not connected to anything any more?






A friend of mine had that happen. IIRC he needed a new change of underwear and a deep cleaning of the seat. And of course, the steering column repaired.

Don't take the chance.

Swapping the column is EASY. Believe it. See it. Learn it. Do it. You'll be glad you did.
Old 04-21-2006, 03:08 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
Pretty sure they were available in 82 as well. They'd been available in other car models for years and years before; I have a 74 with tilt, for example.
my '82 has non intermittent wipers, off, on slow, on fast.... kinda off topic, but anyone know if it's as easy as putting on an intermittent switch, or do I need a new wiper motor too?
Old 04-21-2006, 03:14 PM
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The problem is an intermittent ground at the motor.

The motor is grounded by a little brass strap, across one of its rubber mount bushings. The strap quits making good contact after a few years.

Run a piece of wire from one of the screws on the motor, to one of the screws holding something on the firewall.
Old 04-21-2006, 03:46 PM
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No, I mean the wiper stalk, has 3 settings, off, click, on slow, click, on fast. No intermittent dial thing. Old school.

Can I just swap to a different stalk, or is the motor specific to being intermittent?
Old 04-21-2006, 04:02 PM
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Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Originally Posted by MJH91RS
Couldn't I just put my old ignition cylinder in the new one and just connect the old wire to the new one for the VATS?

Yes, just don't break the wires when pulling it out.
Old 04-21-2006, 05:02 PM
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So is the VATS in the ignition cylinder and i can re-use the wire that goes through the column, just connect the wire from the new column to the old cylinder??
Old 04-21-2006, 05:29 PM
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im gonna disagree and say, if/when possible, fix what you have... you already know its condition otherwise
the junkyards over here are filled with third gens.... but for a reason, they are junk :P
so are most of there parts, however you dont always relize this until you get it home... last 3rdgen i molested for parts had its steering wheel ripped off the spokes, I wouldnt trust that column to be in wonderful shape

and ill also say fixing some threads, or installing a new column (a job of which you've never performed before) ... if one were less safe the the other... well you get the point :P
Old 04-21-2006, 05:50 PM
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Look for the orange wires. Almost (dare I say it) ALL 89+ thirdgens have VATS, your new column will have the VATS wires coming down the column from the cylinder. Disconnect them under the dash. When you change over your lock cylinder you'll see the connectors.

Last edited by bobdole369; 04-21-2006 at 10:00 PM.
Old 04-21-2006, 06:36 PM
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88 or 89 up had vats. The pre-caution is that the wires are paper thin, and removing your old cylinder to swap it might break them. To me, if the column was tight and you didn't have to go into it, I would spend the $30 for a new key after testing that the vats wires aren't broken in the nused column. There is also a 1 in 14 chance that the nused column would have the same chip as yours, so no new key would be required. If it's a pick-ur-part place, you might want to measure the resistance of your key, and take an ohmeter with you to the yard, and try and find a good used one that has the same chip.
Old 04-22-2006, 01:57 PM
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OK, three junkyards, no tilt steering columns worth taking

Looks like I need to fix the one threaded bolt hole that is stripped.

Any suggestions as to the best way to repair it? Is the thread repair kit stuff worth a darn, or should I just tap in a thicker stronger bolt....

Last edited by MJH91RS; 04-22-2006 at 06:22 PM.
Old 04-23-2006, 04:24 PM
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Looks like the thing for me to do right now is Heli-coil it. It's all apart anyways, and since the junkyards didn't have any columns, I am going to try this.

Anything I should look out for when using the heli-coils?
Old 04-23-2006, 04:33 PM
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drill straight, try not to think about how expensive the helicoil kit is..... that pretty much covers it.
Old 04-24-2006, 10:18 PM
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Car: 83 POS monte carlo 2015 chevy P/U
Engine: 92 5.7 tpi 5.3
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Axle/Gears: 2.42 too high
you can get the part you need from all most any GM tilt column from a rear wheel drive car, say like a monte carlo, grand prix, cutlass, regal, caprice & so on. i don't think the caddy columns with telescopic will work, but i may be wrong.

i would recommend replacing the lock cylinder when you have it torn down, the wires can check good right now but could break at any time. the new cylinders are cheap, 2 new keys will cost more than the lock cylinder, but be sure to get a delco, the after market lock cylinders are junk.
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