Not enough HP from my motor!?!?!
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Not enough HP from my motor!?!?!
Ok so I just got this motor, that I just kinda got on a budget to run for a lil bit until I decide if I want to get rid of he car, or go ahead and finish my twin turbo set-up or what. SO here it is, I have a 350 block, bored .30 over, all new crank, rods, flat top pistons, all that. It has a big oil pump, and a really big cam, but I'm not sure of the measurements on it because I didnt get this motor brand new, but it has a huge lope to it and I'm not makin any vaccum. I also have some .202 iron double-hump heads. On top is a Holley Street Performer or whatever it's called aluminum intake and a edelbrock 600 carb. The distributor is just a new factory distributor with an upgraded coil. All this is running through a stupid torque converter and a built 700R4 with all new internal stuff and a big TCI shift kit.
So my problem is, my buddy had about this same basic set-up and he made 452 horse. Now I am not making anywhere near that kinda power because this thing is running like crap. Is this just because it's a bunch of mis matched parts? I have my timing at like 6 degrees advaced. And when I try to adjust the carb with the screws at the base of it, even with it turned all the way down the car wont die. And as far as me not having a torque converter, this thing isnt making enough power where its bogging down to where you can tell you need a torque converter? Anyone have any ideas? I think I have a good base to work with for a while to drive around while I mess around with some of my other projects. I just cant believe that with what is done that it just doesnt have any power to it at all. It's not taking off much quicker than my slightly modified Dodge Ram Sport, and that's not good at all.
So my problem is, my buddy had about this same basic set-up and he made 452 horse. Now I am not making anywhere near that kinda power because this thing is running like crap. Is this just because it's a bunch of mis matched parts? I have my timing at like 6 degrees advaced. And when I try to adjust the carb with the screws at the base of it, even with it turned all the way down the car wont die. And as far as me not having a torque converter, this thing isnt making enough power where its bogging down to where you can tell you need a torque converter? Anyone have any ideas? I think I have a good base to work with for a while to drive around while I mess around with some of my other projects. I just cant believe that with what is done that it just doesnt have any power to it at all. It's not taking off much quicker than my slightly modified Dodge Ram Sport, and that's not good at all.
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Car: 1983 Pontiac Trans AM
Engine: 355 chevy
Transmission: 700R4 Built
Axle/Gears: Built 10 bolt 3.73 gears
if you turn in the idle air screws down and it doesn't stall something is wrong. I had a 750 carb that did it. Turns out the throttle body was a 750 and the base plate was a 650 causing the car to run really rich. Same thing might be happening to your car.
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
If nothing happens when idle screws adjusted - there is a vacuum leak - get some carb cleaner and spray all around carb and intake and find the leak. I had to get an extra carb/intake gasket to help stop mine leak - I was also leaking vacuum between intake and block. Use carb cleaner - not starting fluid! Starting fluid very volatile - it will puddle and catch fire very easily (ask me how I know LOL)
Also try 10* advanced timing - you can add some timing and reduce the idle on the carb to gain some vacuum - I had to do this (10*) on my 350 carb motor to get enough for brakes. You'd have to have a hell of a cam to lose all vacuum - you can also add a cheap vacuum canister to "hold" vacuum to assist with brakes if needed - but try inceasing your timing, reducing the idle screw on the carb, and getting rid of those vacuum leaks first.
Also try 10* advanced timing - you can add some timing and reduce the idle on the carb to gain some vacuum - I had to do this (10*) on my 350 carb motor to get enough for brakes. You'd have to have a hell of a cam to lose all vacuum - you can also add a cheap vacuum canister to "hold" vacuum to assist with brakes if needed - but try inceasing your timing, reducing the idle screw on the carb, and getting rid of those vacuum leaks first.
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Like the poster above said pull the intake and fix the vacuum leaks.
Then pull the distributor and lock out the mechanical advance curve so you have a full 36 deg at idle. Be sure the PCv is hooked up and the other cover is vented. Now reset your carbs idle mixture screw and idle speed to 700-750rpm.
With a big cam you definatly need a high stall converter. Don;t bother with a cheap modded restalled 12" converter. you need a real 9.5" 3500+stall converter. ya get what you pay for ATI makes a nice Th700r4 race converter.
what is the head casting # Camel back heads actually don;t flow that much in stock form. But work well with proper porting. You're heads are probabily not ported. YOu need a high rear gear ratio for a motor with a "big cam"
3.73-4.10. The motor wants to rev. A 600cfm is a little small 750cfm is better.
Then pull the distributor and lock out the mechanical advance curve so you have a full 36 deg at idle. Be sure the PCv is hooked up and the other cover is vented. Now reset your carbs idle mixture screw and idle speed to 700-750rpm.
With a big cam you definatly need a high stall converter. Don;t bother with a cheap modded restalled 12" converter. you need a real 9.5" 3500+stall converter. ya get what you pay for ATI makes a nice Th700r4 race converter.
what is the head casting # Camel back heads actually don;t flow that much in stock form. But work well with proper porting. You're heads are probabily not ported. YOu need a high rear gear ratio for a motor with a "big cam"
3.73-4.10. The motor wants to rev. A 600cfm is a little small 750cfm is better.
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The heads were ported, with a three angle valve job and whatever. But I dont know the specs on stuff because I got all this stuff cheap and already blew up my previous motor ( fyi, if you're running 500+ to the rear wheels all motor, make sure your motor is a 4 bolt main, dont rely on what people say), so do i need to get a better ignition too? How do I find out if my carb, intake, cam, and all that is even matched up right? Do I just need to start over and replace those compenents? I want to have something to drive around for like a year or so until I get my other projects caught up and work on my new set-up. But I dont want to have a TA that eats gas, sounds nasty, and runs like the stupid factory motor did.
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The heads were ported, with a three angle valve job and whatever. But I dont know the specs on stuff because I got all this stuff cheap and already blew up my previous motor ( fyi, if you're running 500+ to the rear wheels all motor, make sure your motor is a 4 bolt main, dont rely on what people say), so do i need to get a better ignition too? How do I find out if my carb, intake, cam, and all that is even matched up right? Do I just need to start over and replace those compenents? I want to have something to drive around for like a year or so until I get my other projects caught up and work on my new set-up. But I dont want to have a TA that eats gas, sounds nasty, and runs like the stupid factory motor did.
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The heads were ported, with a three angle valve job and whatever. But I dont know the specs on stuff because I got all this stuff cheap and already blew up my previous motor ( fyi, if you're running 500+ to the rear wheels all motor, make sure your motor is a 4 bolt main, dont rely on what people say), so do i need to get a better ignition too? How do I find out if my carb, intake, cam, and all that is even matched up right? Do I just need to start over and replace those compenents? I want to have something to drive around for like a year or so until I get my other projects caught up and work on my new set-up. But I dont want to have a TA that eats gas, sounds nasty, and runs like the stupid factory motor did.
Last edited by brewersprts; 03-27-2006 at 09:20 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Car: 87 Berlinetta,work in progress
Engine: 468 BB,still in the build process
Transmission: TH350,3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 9" Ford,learning how to live under
Originally Posted by brewersprts
The heads were ported, with a three angle valve job and whatever. But I dont know the specs on stuff because I got all this stuff cheap and already blew up my previous motor ( fyi, if you're running 500+ to the rear wheels all motor, make sure your motor is a 4 bolt main, dont rely on what people say), so do i need to get a better ignition too? How do I find out if my carb, intake, cam, and all that is even matched up right? Do I just need to start over and replace those compenents? I want to have something to drive around for like a year or so until I get my other projects caught up and work on my new set-up. But I dont want to have a TA that eats gas, sounds nasty, and runs like the stupid factory motor did.
![bs](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/smilies/bs.gif)
#9
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 5.0 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
ok to start 4-bolts are good yes but I know a FEW 500 to 700hp 2 bolt motors that arn't comein apart any time soon. only time it'll come apart is if you can't drive, as in miss a shift or just flat out over rev it like an *** yeah it'll come apart. see I like to play so I know I'll over rev once in a while so I'm in the process of buildin a 4-bolt just for that fact, and as specs go for my motor I'll be around 450hp and like 500tq.........give or take ya know done on paper. and as word goes we're usein an old 1400 holley full vac mec choke 600cfm. BUT we're gonna rejet it first. cam with 488 488 lift and 278 288 dur @50, stock 1.94 1.50 fully ported and polished and Might send back out for stainless valves and a 5-angle, got 30 over flats, 1 5/8 equal length long tubes with 3" collectors 36" glasspacks with turndowns, edelbrock performer portmatched, ordering a set of roller rockers in 1.5 amd 1.6, got a stock dist with full msd upgrade (vac advance kit, moduale, coil, brass term cap/rotor, 10.8 wires), lightend flexplate, polished rods, might order a lightend crank too.....but she should jump. oh and the tranny is a stage 2 th350
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Originally Posted by Irockz
500 plus to the rear wheels with a previous engine,and you can't tune?Especially with this combo?Please,allow me to be the first to call![bs](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/smilies/bs.gif)
![bs](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/smilies/bs.gif)
I didnt tune it, it was when I lived up in Ohio before and me and my buddy did the wrenching, and my uncle who is a very knowledgable racer/builder, did the tuning and all that good stuff. I just trailered it up there, and drove it home, and with just about 50 miles on the set-up I already started to beat on it, that is what I get for being stupid and not breaking in the engine I guess
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 5.0 tbi
Transmission: 700r4
so wait then did anybody do the initial break in or was it just fire and tune? I mean it that be the case maybe you can get away with a retune, maybe it's not tuned to the way you drive and it's tuned to an all race setting?
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It was ran and driven around for about 1,000 miles and tuned for the set-up that was on it, it had a bigger holley carb and a completely MSD ingition, and it had a ton more power than it does now. He kept them too items and gave me the distributor that is on it now and that Edelbrock I got from my buddy that he was running on his 400 small block. Im not down in Florida with my car right now so I guess ill try what they suggested earlier and see where that gets me
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