Blue Smoke from My 89Iroc
#1
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.7L 350
Blue Smoke from My 89Iroc
Alright, this is really starting to irritate me. So my car sits and is cold... anywhere between, well i want to say 2 hours to like overnite. Well when I get into my car and start it, I've been noticing a big puff of blue smoke coming out my duals. This happened just when i start it and the blue smoke is gone right away and my car looks fine running. Its kind of embarrasing after school in the parking lot because my car is in good shape and i havnt had any problems with it and then it does this. So yeah. I've been told its my rings but I wanted to get your guys' opinions. What could i do to resolve this problem without paying a load to take it to the repair shop. Thanks a lot!
#2
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by DanTheManZ28
Alright, this is really starting to irritate me. So my car sits and is cold... anywhere between, well i want to say 2 hours to like overnite. Well when I get into my car and start it, I've been noticing a big puff of blue smoke coming out my duals. This happened just when i start it and the blue smoke is gone right away and my car looks fine running. Its kind of embarrasing after school in the parking lot because my car is in good shape and i havnt had any problems with it and then it does this. So yeah. I've been told its my rings but I wanted to get your guys' opinions. What could i do to resolve this problem without paying a load to take it to the repair shop. Thanks a lot!
#4
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Yeah, I agree, valve seals. Mine does the exact same thing. But you can just tell the uneducated that it's because your car makes so much power
#5
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by GuitarJunki17
...But you can just tell the uneducated that it's because your car makes so much power
#6
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 2
From: Madison, WI
Car: 1986 Camaro Z28
Engine: 400
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt Posi 3.73
Originally Posted by GuitarJunki17
Yeah, I agree, valve seals. Mine does the exact same thing. But you can just tell the uneducated that it's because your car makes so much power
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#8
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Originally Posted by Codename 47
How hard is it to change the seals on a Air Conditioning TPI car? I've changed them on my 86 LG4 carbed motor and it wasn't bad at all. I did have to dissconnect some stuff, but in all it was pretty simple. Is there alot of sh*t in the way on a TPI car?
Good luck and let us know any more problems you have, we'll help walk you through it.
_Clark
#9
Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 273
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From: Maine
Car: 1989 Formula 350
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700-R4
Go to your local auto store and pick up some "Restore". It comes in a tall can, and it works great. The engine in my fathers truck was smoking very badly at start up and after I put some restore in it didnt smoke for over a month until his oil was changed. But It is just a temporary fix. Hopefully its just the valve seals
Last edited by 89TPI350; 03-27-2006 at 10:22 AM.
#10
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Originally Posted by 89TPI350
Go to your local auto store and pick up some "Restore". It comes in a tall can, and it works great. The engine in my fathers truck was smoking very badly at start up and after I put some restore in it didnt smoke for over a month until his oil was changed. But It is just a temporary fix. Hopefully its just the valve seals
I'll put money on it that it is the valve seals.
#12
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From: New Boston, IL, USA
Car: '90 Formula 350
Engine: 383 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt S/S 700-R4 & ACT 9" Stall
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.23
Yes it's fairly common.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/352471-rusty-coolant.html
Stekman explained it fairly well:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/cooling/352471-rusty-coolant.html
Stekman explained it fairly well:
As it sits over night, oil that didn't drain back to the pan seeps down the valve stems, past the cracked and worn valve stem seals, and collects on the intake valves, once you start it up, the valves open, and all that residual oil makes its way into the combustion chamber and poof, smoke on start up.
#14
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 2
From: Madison, WI
Car: 1986 Camaro Z28
Engine: 400
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt Posi 3.73
Usually its the exhaust seals. It's made of plastic and tends to break down and disappear after awhile. I know when I did my seals most of the exhaust "umbrellas" were actually missing, as they had just broken down/dissolved over the past 20 years.
That's an excellent idea.
Originally Posted by GuitarJunki17
you can mark their location with a piece of masking tape. Wrap one end of a hose with a tag and label it "A" and wrap the fitting it went on to with a letter "A".
you can mark their location with a piece of masking tape. Wrap one end of a hose with a tag and label it "A" and wrap the fitting it went on to with a letter "A".
#15
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.7L 350
Alright so majority says valve seals.
God I love you guys...haha, i dont know what i would do if this site wasnt here and so Frigging Awesome!
God I love you guys...haha, i dont know what i would do if this site wasnt here and so Frigging Awesome!
Last edited by DanTheManZ28; 03-28-2006 at 07:27 PM.
#16
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From: Hamilton
Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Originally Posted by DanTheManZ28
Alright so majority says valve stems.
God I love you guys...haha, i dont know what i would do if this site wasnt here and so Frigging Awesome!
God I love you guys...haha, i dont know what i would do if this site wasnt here and so Frigging Awesome!
No problem, we've always got time to help out a fellow third genner.
#17
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.7L 350
Alright so I'm going to try to give this replacing valve stems a whirl. Haha, I have to learn how to do it somehow, you know?
Any you guys want to give me some step by step advice on checking my valve seals. Don't worry I'm not totally oblivious like that last sentence makes me sound. I have been reading up on in my Haynes Repair Manual. So... that's if one of you guys think you can put it in simpler english than the Haynes.
And if not thats cool, if I have any problems I'll be sure to let you guys know.
Any you guys want to give me some step by step advice on checking my valve seals. Don't worry I'm not totally oblivious like that last sentence makes me sound. I have been reading up on in my Haynes Repair Manual. So... that's if one of you guys think you can put it in simpler english than the Haynes.
And if not thats cool, if I have any problems I'll be sure to let you guys know.
#18
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by DanTheManZ28
Alright so I'm going to try to give this replacing valve stems a whirl. ... So... that's if one of you guys think you can put it in simpler english than the Haynes.
And if not thats cool, if I have any problems I'll be sure to let you guys know.
And if not thats cool, if I have any problems I'll be sure to let you guys know.
#19
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 17
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Car: 1989 Camaro Iroc-Z28
Engine: 5.7L 350
Well i really dont have an air compressor, i used to but now its shot. So probably the rope method.
----------
But maybe i can get an air compressor.
Well which ones easier?
----------
But maybe i can get an air compressor.
Well which ones easier?
Last edited by DanTheManZ28; 03-28-2006 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#20
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,675
Likes: 3
From: Arab, Alabama
Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally Posted by DanTheManZ28
Well i really dont have an air compressor, i used to but now its shot. So probably the rope method.
----------
But maybe i can get an air compressor.
Well which ones easier?
----------
But maybe i can get an air compressor.
Well which ones easier?
Most people use the bolt in the end of the crank, put the rope in, turn the crank clockwise, change seals, then unscrew the bolt trying to turn it CCW and can't turn it back to get the rope out.
Air method: Better have reliable air. It has to stay aired up all the time you are removing both springs, replacing the seals, and springing them back up, and after you drop a keeper (that will balance on the crossmember) and fish it back up. A little planning will go a long way here. Have a magnet to hold the keepers while you are changing the seals, a pencil magnet to put them in, and a couple of clothes pins to hold the valves if you have to let the air off. Remember one hand will be holding tension on the lever compressing the spring so you will have to do everything else with only one hand. Tip: when you start the spring back down onto the stem, get it lined up good the first time. When you air the cylinder, the piston will travel to the bottom, (watch the fanbelt/pullies) and if you pry down on the stem with the retainer it is possible to pop the exhaust valve off the seat. Then down she goes, into the empty cylinder. You can get it back up, since it can't fall completely out in the cylinder, but it is one hell of a fishing expedition. I haven't personally used the rope method but it will be the only technique if headers are there. The air adapter won't clear the headers to screw into the sparkplug hole.
Another tip: after you remove and install a bunch of springs, be feeling for a "soft one" while you are doing it. It's just as easy to put a replacement back on as a weak one, and they ain't expensive.
It's really not so difficult as it is time consuming. Especially if you are prepared and know what to expect.
p.s. don't forget the valve cover gaskets.
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