Search function is disabled so sorry if repost. I have looked nearly everywhere for a new cast 327 crank, all i can find is forged. I just dont see spending $600 for a crank thats going in a n/a street motor. I dont think they make 1-piece 3.250" stroke cranks, so obviously looking for a 2-piece one. And no i wont put a "400 crank" into a 305 block. This will be a large bore 327 i.e. 4.000 and 3.250. Thanks for your help/input.

Also, reman. is ok too, as long as its from a reputable rebuild/reman company. NOT from Autozone

 

Are you looking for a small journal crank?

 

I hope you aren't planning on making a 4" bore out of your 305 block.

327 cranks were forged until 1968, when they went with the larger journal size and since it was now an "economy" engine, went with cast cranks.

 

If you need a large journal 2 piece crank, try getting a 307 crank, it is the same stroke at 3.25 just likely to be balanced a little differently, but you will need to rebalance when changing cranks anyway.

 

The larger journal size....hmmm, large journal and cast after 68? SO i should probably find one from 69-70 since that is dead-on for my application. lol and no i am not boring my 305...it will be a new 350 block. I dont think a 305 could take it to 4" Talk about burning coolant. The 307s were made up to 73, so may be a little easier to find, but cant remember whether it was small or large journal. Also, what vehicles did the 307's come in?

EDIT: Sorry, posted right after you so i guess they are large journals.

 

You can't find them, because nobody wants them. Why would anybody in there right mind build a 327?

A 307 crank would work, but why. It will cost more to have it machined than a brand new 383 crank would be.

 

Why would anyone build a "LT1 headed LG4 305 beast" and spend all the time and money on parts and modding, when they can easily build a 350, or a 383, or maybe a 396. From my standpoint, a 327 would be a better option over a 305, simply because of the larger bore. 305=3.735" bored...327=4.000" bore. Sure a 383 crank would cost about the same, but add in machine costs to have the block cleared, new rods to keep clearances correct...and so on. Sticking with the 327 Thank you for your opinions and time.

 

If I'm remembering correctly, the "baby" LT1's have a 3.25" stroke. One-piece, nodular (I think). It would have to be rebalanced for your 327 pieces.

 

I thought the L99 was a 3.000" stroke? With a 3.75" bore. I think the 307 and 327 were the only ones with a 3.250".

 

Why,I think you've got a point there.I've watched this 305 packing villain sling a lot of spit on these pages.Kinda like a first chair flute player making fun of a varsity football player now,isn't it

 

LT1 headed LG4 305 beast! Comp Solid lifter XS-262-10S, 1.6 Roller Rockers, 10.2:1, Holley 4160 600cfm, modded Weiand 7502 intake to fit LT1 heads____ Custom cylinder head cooling. Weiand 8208 Short Water Pump____TH-350 3 series 3.73 with 2 series posi and spacer____

Are you serious? So I guess you wasted you money on your 305 Beast!

 

A 307 crank shouldn't be hard to find, and its a LG crank, 3.25" stroke, and cast as well. Shouldn't be hard to find, and like 305 parts, 307 parts are usually dirt cheap.

 

I appreciate everyones time. So definately need to look for the 307 and 327's. Now the next step. I HAVE found a couple new cranks, they are expensive, but not as much as a forged, so i need your opinions. The first crank is from CAT. It is a cast NEW crank, x-rayed, magnafluxed, cross drilled, race-prepped and guaranteed not to be cracked or have defects for $430. A step up would be the steel crank from Scat for around $500, also full race prepped. Both are still cheaper than forged, but are pricey. Would I be better off buying one of these straight out, or scavenging a used one and having it machined? Crossdrilling, magnafluxing, haveing it cut under and rebalanced....not to mention actually finding one in good condition. Oh, and i do have the $$ to purchase either of these cranks, but would spend more time on a used one to save money. I already have a reputable shop lined up, so seaching for one is taken care of. Thanks again for your time.

 

If you are going to build a 327, one thing I would certainly do is install longer rods. A stock 327 piston is rather long and heavy, by raising the pin you get a shorter, lighter piston, plus improving the rod/stroke ratio. I assume that you will want to twist to p1ss out of this short stroker, and lighter pistons and longer rods wiil make it sing at high rpms. You might also consider using 350 pistons designed for 6.00 rods. If you use those, you could go with a 6.125 long rod, check out kb-silvolite.com for instance and check some piston weight, your motor will thank you. I would try to keep the piston pin out of the oil ring area, some KB's with long rods get int the ring area. For a nice hyper piston that keeps the oil ring intact, look at speed pro H140CL, they are full machined and have a lightweight pin too. Use them with a 6.125 rods in your 327. A stock 327 piston and pin weighs in at about 750 grams, the H140CL piston and pin weigh about 575 grams- big difference. Just some options to ponder.

 

Hmm, summit has those pistons for $40 a piece too. $320 for a set of these, plus some rods. I dont plan on seeing over 400fwhp on this engine, so I was thinking I-beams, but I can take H-beams to higher RPMs, and have the extra strength also...but add 60 grams to each rod. Eagle does make ESP-6125BLW at summit, and these are featherlight H-beams that weigh 550g each, which is a good 100g less a piece and can take up to 500hp. You pay to play tho, these are $619 a set. They are forged too.

After reviewing all of my choices, I am going with the steel crank from Scat. I want this engine to be able to take some miles, and I want to be sure that everything is right. The entire rotating assembly is going to be new. Crank, rods, pistons, pushrods, etc etc.

 

Before this turned into a crap slinging fest, i believe someone was trying to make a point. Why spend all of that money to go slower?

BTW, if you think you are going to save machine work building a 327 over a 383, you are dead wrong. Either way block will need maintenance if its used. (ie boring and honing). You will have to pay to have it balenced. The only difference is clearancing for the longer stroke, which you do at home with a die grinder. No difference in cost at all.

But hey, I know I like to pay more to go slower.

 

I didn't build the motor. I took a stock running LG4 short block, added aluminum LT1 heads and a cam. The motor is used in a stripped down Auto-X car. I don't care about all out power, i care about handling. So all i wanted and needed was a cheap semi powerful lightweight motor. This is exactly what i have. The entire motor with everything i have added from carb to waterpump was really cheap around $800. I'm a cheap bastard and i didn't want to spend money on a 350 when i had a perfectly good running 305.

Now if i needed machine work, pistons or a crank then yes i would have gone with a 350. But for my race needs a 350 would be no better.


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See above, A waste is spending money on stuff you don't need.
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Packing 3000 lbs of Auto-X pure handling power. I car about turning fast, not going fast.

 

This thread was not meant to be a "crap slinging fest" by any means. I simply posted a question and requested some time and experience on the matter. The argument of displacememnt has been beat to death many times over, and this thread is not the place for it. If you want to argue about it , go to the other thread "305 vs. 350" I apprecaite ME Leighs info on the 307 crank, but statements about the sanity of building a 327 was not asked for, nor needed. You put the 305 together because it was cheap and on-hand, and you dont need all out power. That is fine, but please respect my decision to build a 327, as I respect yours to build a 305.

 

You>
............. ^Me

Obviously, I didn't RC.

I was remembering all those 302 posts from days gone by. . .

 

If I were building a long rod 327, I'd go this route. Search ebay for a factory forged large journal 327. I bought two for under $150 shipped, one as recently as 5 months ago. Have it magged, and turned. You can have a .010 x .010 fresh cut steel forged crank for $300 or so, if you shop wisely. Then grab a set of 610 grams 6.25" ultra light rods from http://www.dyno-flo.com
These are good for 600 hp and are an amazing $379.00 plus shipping.
You can then use off-the-shelf 383 pistons originally meant for a 6" rod. For your horsepower range and budget, a good hyperutectic like the skirt coated Sealed Power pistons. You can use any 4-bolt main 350 block with this combo.

I went this route with a 400 block except I'm using 406 piston originally for 6" rod. The result was everything I hoped. Good Luck!

 

This is what i got off their site.

SIR6250BBLW 6.250 inch 5140 Forged Steel Bushed I-beam 615 Grams $274.79
CRS6250B3D 6.250 Inch +.550 4340 Forged Steel H Beam 665 Grams $562.00
CRS6250BLW 6.250 Inch +.550 4340 Forged Steel H Beam Lightweight $562.00

 

To be honest, I haven't been to their site in a while. I did ask Scot Slotten, the head honcho at Dyno-flo about the torque of the cap screw ARP wave-loc bolts that came on mine and if they had another set I could buy. I sent him a picture of my rods but they didn't attach for some reason. Anyway, this is his reply:

hi, the tq on the rods is 63#, the picture did not come through, but it sounds like a 610 grams 6.25" ultra light rod we carry. these are still available for the sbc dimensions for 379.00 per set + 20.00 shipping to the
48 states. thanks scot

Attached is a picture of mine.

 

The SIR lightweights 6.250 5140 I-beam rods i posted weigh 615g and are $275. The SIR ultra-lightweights are around 570g, but there isnt a listing for a 6.250. I'm thinking Eagle no longer makes them. I checked Eagles site and they have the SIR 6.250 rods for $305. The ultra-lightweight ones are around $600. Oh well. The ones I posted above are great bang for the buck, are forged also.

So heres the list so far(not counting obvious stuff i.e. pumps, timing chain):
350 4-bolt block 2-piece
forged 327 crankshaft
forged rods
forged flat-tops with dual valve relief
"cylinder heads and cam to be determined"
Cutler/Holley EFI MPFI single-plane, 1000cfm with Megasquirt

Also if anyone is interested, here is an article from ARP's site that is really cool. They "Built the 350 Chevy should have" . Dont quote me, that IS the title. 412hp at 5700rpm with 3.250" 327 stroke with a 4.155" bore, barely better than stock cam, and 305 heads with 1.999" intake and 1.555" exhaust valves and 11.0:1 compression. They used 6.209" Ford connecting rods.
http://airflowresearch.com/articles/article03/A3-P1.htm

 

The whole point is that people come here looking for answers to their questions,not YOUR opinion.I myself wouldn't build a 327.I also would go the route you went for a gheap engine.However,That doesn't make my opinion the BEST one,therefore.yours is not either.People come here asking questions.They don't ask for opinions or even facts about what CID would be better,just about what they have or want.
Yes,a 350 will run better all the way around.But he wants a 327.Why do you take that as a personal insult to you,or an invitation to insult or belittle him?It's his money,his car,and his 327.

I just don't know why you lurk around here trying to **** people off.Unless you just enjoy being a dick in general.

 

I just speak the truth. I try to provide information to people so that they don't waste their money. I never try to insult or belittle anybody. If it comes off that way i apologize.

You know what they say about dicks; the guys with the smallest ones usually are.

 

Hey Phatfiddler,
Send me an e-mail or PM if you'd like some real world feedback on that "Smallblock That Chevy Should Have Built".