tjcannon

My exhaust passes within about 1/2 inch of the stock starter, and it used to run for about 2 minutes before it wouldn't start again. I got some exhaust wrap and put it 2 layers deep the whole length of exhaust that's anywhere close to the starter, and now it takes about 20 minutes of running to kill the starter.

I know I need a new starter, but I'd like to know which one you guys have had success with in avoiding heat soak issues.

Thanks.

tjcannon

Also, I apologize as I'm sure this is a repeat question, but I have searched the first 10 pages to no avail. The search function is disabled right now, so this was my last option.

Once again, thanks for any help you can give.

ZZ28ZZ

My CVR mini-starter works like a champ. It's the best starter I've ever owned.

D's89IROCZ

I have a powermaster unit right now and it's pretty good with the new SLP headers. So far all good.

Might wanna get a heat shield too .

bobdole369

I'm assuming you've got the starter properly shimmed?

Or maybe if you just got the car you don't know its condition, or maybe you never did anything to the starter at all.

In any case, ensure it actually IS heat soak. I thought thats what was happening to me, and a shim actually came in the box with the 4th replacement starter I went through (from Discount).

Coincidentally it was the day after I read a post on this forum about heat soak - and how someone actually went under and took off the flexplate cover and looked at the starter/flexplate.

Turns out when the starter attempted to engagem the teeth on the starter were bumping end on with the teeth on the flexplate, instead of between and engaging.

That was exactly what was going on with my starter. A shim solved the problem, which was that the starter would click as the solenoid engaged, and that was it. It seemed to only happen after I drove the car, waited just a few minutes, then tried to start it again. Waiting 5 more minutes cured it.

tjcannon

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm pretty sure it is heat soak. I came to this conclusion from the fact that there is no clicking of any sort, but the starter will simpy tun the engine over a lot slower, and then not at all depending on how hot it gets. Does that sound like heat soak to you? I consider myself pretty good with these things, but if anyone else has other suggestions, I'm open to trying them.

SLEEPER 86

make sure all your wire contacts are clean.that might help it behave a bit better.
checked the alternator/regulator?
don't forget the battery and terminals.
could the hot wire to the starter have gotten burned a bit and be grounding out on a header tube or somewhere else?

i know this all sounds like basic b.s. but you'd be suprised what you'll find with a good old "once over"!

if none of that helps,then,i have heard great things about those cvr mini starters!

good luck!

Eric B

tjcannon

Check
Check
Check

Already been that route. Thanks for verifying what I was fairly sure of to start with. These replies are helping me justify spending that hundred plus dollars on a new starter.

rjmcgee

I'm in the same boat. Looked in Summit last night and there are alot of those little gear reduction starters. Ebay also has a bunch of them. I don't want to buy some cheap little piece that needs replaced in another year.

ZEEYAA

I really like my CVR, we use them on everything we build and they hold up very well, and are reasonable for what you get.

SLEEPER 86

make sure all your wire contacts are clean.that might help it behave a bit better.
checked the alternator/regulator?
don't forget the battery and terminals.
could the hot wire to the starter have gotten burned a bit and be grounding out on a header tube or somewhere else?

i know this all sounds like basic b.s. but you'd be suprised what you'll find with a good old "once over"!

if none of that helps,then,i have heard great things about those cvr mini starters!

good luck!

Eric B

rjmcgee

Thanks, actually got it the first time you posted this.

Mine is a combination of the base timing advanced to 14* and heat soak. Now I want to take the base timing up to 20*and it will polly never start warm with out some kind of gear reduction starter.

coolram62

iTrader: (2)

Another solution to the heat soak problem is a remote solenoid.I agree with going over all the connections/wiring.

F-BIRD'88

When the motor is good and hot try spinning the starter over with the ignition power disconnected so you get no spark during cranking. If the motor turns over good, install a switch to allow you to disable the ignition power while starting the car when hot. Once the starter has the motor spinning over hit the ignition power switch to get spark and it should fire right up.
Also effective as an anti theft device.

if you have a MSD 6 or most any other aftermarket CD ignition box, MSD sells a add on cranking retard box that retards the spark up to 20degrees during cranking to allow the starter motor less strain. Ford Duraspark II boxes have this Cranking retard built in to their design. GM should have done this to their HEI module as well.

This MSD crank retard box will not hook up directly to a GM HEI thou. the output signal is all wrong for the HEI modules input. Many electronic timing retard controls boxes also have a built in cranking retard function.

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

I've had headers for the last 7 years on my car and I have had awesome luck with my Autozone replacement Duralast alternator.