forever3

I have searched and searched, but I only get more confused. I am ordering my rebuild kit for my L98 this week, and was wondering if anyone KNOWS what will work for a 300hp build. I want to keep it as stock as I can to keep cost down, and since it will be a daily driver, I want it to be a practical street car, but I have a .030" over block, and a .010" under crank. My main intrest is do I keep a stock compression piston, and what cam do I run (part #'s?). I found one that looked like a good one, but it was in a Comp cams catalog, and they dont make that particular grind anymore.

Anyway, I am confused a he!!, and I was wondering if someone can simplify this a bit for me.

BTW, I am running a cat back exhaust, headers, and 1.5 roller tip rockers, stock heads and valves/springs, stock intake. Is 300 hp even possible with with stock heads and intake???

D's89IROCZ

Thereis LTS of thread on here for that number try 300 hp TPI


CALL compcams and ask them what they say .

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

300hp is nothing in the wishful thinking area. Search, but heres a few ideas that will get you there.

-Aftermarket intake (HSR, Edelbrock base/slp runners)
-GM Vortec Heads, or better
-Cam
-Header Back Exhaust

forever3

I wouldn't blink an eye at it if I could afford new heads and intake. I am springing for a set of headers, and it already has a cat-back system on it. I am just trying to keep the cost down, yet get as much power as I can w/o replacing the good parts that I already have. Engine is ony 135k old, so no need to replace heads (alredy did a valve job, had em tanked and leveled), or the crank, or intake.

Comp cams helped a bit, but they were $50 more for the cam I want than Summit was, so I've got a bit of direction. Pretty well have it all laid out, I'm just getting hung a bit on the cam and how it is gonna get along with the computer.

I'll search a bit more and see what I come up with. Surely someone on here has been in my shoes and has some dyno info to back up what the built.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

You're going to want a set of decent heads, mild cam, and a set of hypereutectic flat top pistons. ARP rod bolts would be a good idea for a little more strength. A set of file fit rings and new bearings are in order along with a true roller timing set. The HSR is a nice intake and will support plenty of HP.

darkhorse91

if you're talking holley stealth ram that is probably out of the question since he is trying to save money.

but that is a badass intake. too bad it's not emissions legal

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, didn't realize he was on a budget.

Okay then, you might get there with your full exhaust, a ported TPI with Siamesed SLP runners (can pick em up for cheap used ~100$ish, cam and a custom prom.

See, the thing with the heads (as i have come to learn this because I am in the same boat as you) will not really support a huge cam and intake, so that will be your restricting point if you go ahead and go cam/intake. You could look into getting your current ones ported out, which would take a number of hours, but you can get it to flow alot better.

gmgod

Have your heads machined for positive type seals and screw in studs, port your heads and base/plenum. Buy a zz4 cam. This will be your cheapest way to 300 hp.

transporter

The new issue of the Camaro magizine is out and they plan on doing a 305 build up. Would like to see what they come up with and if they can keep the cost down.

zippy

I've done my share of this with the 5.0L and 5.7L's. I'd recomend a cam such as the XR264HR from comp or similar. You're going to need different runners or cross flow your stock set. I wouldn't recomend doing this unless you have experience with it. Someday I'll post pictures of this. For runners i'd recomend looking for the SLP set as mentioned. These should be available at a pretty good price all over ebay and classifieds by this point. If you're running a car that was a stock 5.7L you should be fine on injectors. If new heads isn't an option and porting is something you probably don't want to try you're going to have to get power everywhere you can. I'd recomend a set of headers for sure and not long tubes unless you live where the roads are nice or you don't daily drive it. Go with a set of K&N filters and cut out the bottom of the air box's as well as remove the baffles. I've built ram air systems for these, but it's not easy without the right materials or tools. Find some under drive pullies used from ebay or other to help lower parasitic drag. Don't even bother with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator unless you are running out of injector. Get yourself a chip tuned for your car preferrably with numbers from a wideband. The timing is going to be more difficult to get everything out of, but many tuners such as Ed Wright or Alvin Anderson already have a good idea on how much timing your setup should work with. Cam selection and tuning are going to be the biggest difference in getting to your hp goal. While you're there though, put in a good stall converter. There's no point in wasting money on making more power and not using it. I'd recomend something similar to the GM 8691908. That would get your 60' time to the 1.9's if you have the right tire.

D's89IROCZ

All the stuff in my sig netted 251 rwhp and 318 rwtq . I am not sure if you ment 300 at the crank or not . It's 301 hp with a 20 % drivetrain loss. This is untuned aswell and the heads are just rebuilt stockers with a 3 angle valve job screw in studs and Magnum rockers

forever3

THANKS GUYS!!! huge help!! I wish SOOOO bad I could spend a few hundred more on it right now, but I still have the interior to freshen up, and a paint job to do. My biggest fear right now is putting the wrong cam in. I can cam it for future power (intake swap after interior and paint), or stick to a more modest .450"ish lift cam and goto 1.6 rockers after I do the intake and or heads. I am thinking Comp cams .480 / .480" lift, 112 duration. Hopefully I won't have to drop another $300 on a custom chip right now. I can afford a better intake after the rebuild, and if I NEED to, I can run 1.6 rockers. Not sweating having to pull the heads and swap them out later, actually I hope to do just that, but I dont wanna have to swap the cam out because I made a BAD choice in cams. I want it to run GOOD until I can do those mods. I know it wont outrun my Vette, but I do want it to worry it a bit, though. Hopefully, with the right cam, it will set it up for a future of putting the Vette to shame.

Anyone know what the lift and duration specs are on the zz4 cam?

Anyone have some headders for sale? They WILL go on before the engine goes back in. Sorry, can't make an exception there.

D's89IROCZ

ZZ4 is 208/221@.050 and .474"/.510" with 112 LSA . I got a dyno graph on my cardoain site if you wanted to see what it did with a modified aftermarket intake on it . It still won't hit the 5500 rpm mark ( well make power there anyhow) but it did okay for NO tune and a MAF . I am sure if I ported the heads I could get a bit more .