Engine Cleaner
#2
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Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
the cheap stuff.. and lots of it... also i have hooked up the garden hoze into the drain on the water heater so i can wash it with really hot water. that seems to help a lot. expecially with old oil.
be careful though because it will eat paint if left on long enogh.
be careful though because it will eat paint if left on long enogh.
#4
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Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
in that case go to one of those self serv auto cleaning places. most (in my airea anyway) have hot water, if not they have at least preasurised water witch will work well. Regular old cold water will also work with any regular cleaner, but it will take more time and scrubing. Also i think they have some type of floresent die you can put in your oil to help find leaks. I have never used it though. have fun.
#6
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Car: 88 gta
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
also dont let the stuff dry on theer it will make a real mess, and will not be easy to get off... and buy plenty, 3 or 4 big cans. soak it, and just keep misting it so it will stay wet. and dont have your motor hot it will cook the cleaner off fast and it wont do anything. also it will stain any electrical wires, or hozes, and STRIP PAINT.. do be aware of that. But that is the fast way.
Hot water and detergent is the best if you can get a hold of it. but will take a lot of time. also what i do is mix dishwashing power(the dry stuff you use in a dishwasher, amasingley strong, not the stuff you use when washing by hand) in a spray bottle like the one you use for spraying lawn chemicals, mist, let soak 5-10 min, and scrub away. several times. then hoze off VERRY well, you dont want any of tthat stuff left on. also it seems not to eat paint. or plastic stuff, big pluss, but it will take a long time doing it that way. expect to spend at least an hour on a really dirty motor. also it is cheaper
Hot water and detergent is the best if you can get a hold of it. but will take a lot of time. also what i do is mix dishwashing power(the dry stuff you use in a dishwasher, amasingley strong, not the stuff you use when washing by hand) in a spray bottle like the one you use for spraying lawn chemicals, mist, let soak 5-10 min, and scrub away. several times. then hoze off VERRY well, you dont want any of tthat stuff left on. also it seems not to eat paint. or plastic stuff, big pluss, but it will take a long time doing it that way. expect to spend at least an hour on a really dirty motor. also it is cheaper
#7
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Go to the quarter car wash; stop on your way and pick up a couple of cans of Gunk Engine Bright, or the store brand of the same thing (diesel fuel in a spray can). Park the car in the bay, take off the air cleaner and any other large obstructive parts you might have on there that you can easily remove, and soak the whole motor from above, below, the sides, the front, wherever, with the diesel fuel. Wait 5 minutes or so, and soak it again. Wait another 5 minutes, and then blast it with extreme prejudice; spray every surface you can get the wand onto, except for the ignition system (be careful around the spark plugs, and DON'T spary the distributor!!!!). Wash the air cleaner and whatever else you took off separately before you put it back on.
This type of cleaner doesn't hurt paint, doesn't dry and leave a mess, and requires no hand washing or other "work"; so don't worry about any of that. I hate work, and would NEVER do any of it that I don't have to, let alone recommend it to someone else.
This type of cleaner doesn't hurt paint, doesn't dry and leave a mess, and requires no hand washing or other "work"; so don't worry about any of that. I hate work, and would NEVER do any of it that I don't have to, let alone recommend it to someone else.
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#12
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Car: 88 sport coupe convert
Engine: 305 tb
Transmission: auto
Lesson I've learned about "Gunk " cleaner. It is flamable. Sprayed it on a hot engine and engine caught fire. Luckly I was able to put it out in a few seconds. Flames shot up pass the raised hood. It could have easily caught my carport and house on fire. Never, Never use on a hot engine. Scared the hell out of me.
#13
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
It is definitely that.... after all, it is So the usual cautions one might exercise (or not...) with flammable things, should be followed.
diesel fuel
#14
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Car: 86 T/A
Engine: HSR 355
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77 posi
I used that Simple Green household cleaner and made my engine look great. Its also biodegradible so it's not so harmful if it washes into drains, lawns, etc.
#15
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Car: 1990 IROCZ Camaro
Engine: 350 4bbl, 200cc Heads, 270hr Cam
Transmission: 700R4 w/ Trans-Go shift kit.
Axle/Gears: GM 10 bolt Posi
Something smart to do would be to wrap a plastic bag around the alternator and battery.
#16
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Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I like to use a siphion-type chem sprayer and abt a half-gallon of mineral spirits. Works great and dries pretty quick, especially if the eng is still a little warm. Only takes abt 2 mins to clean the entire eng.
If I think abt it in time, I'll spread some kitty litter under the eng to soak up the run-off before I start. Once the solvent dries from the kitty litter, I'll sweep it into the corner and use it again.
If I think abt it in time, I'll spread some kitty litter under the eng to soak up the run-off before I start. Once the solvent dries from the kitty litter, I'll sweep it into the corner and use it again.
#17
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Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Originally posted by firebirdjosh
I used that Simple Green household cleaner and made my engine look great. Its also biodegradible so it's not so harmful if it washes into drains, lawns, etc.
I used that Simple Green household cleaner and made my engine look great. Its also biodegradible so it's not so harmful if it washes into drains, lawns, etc.
Food for thought.
#18
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I never had much luck with simple green, maybe I watered it down too much. Works good on interior plastics though.
Another option though (I think sofa's method is best, go figure), is castrol super clean. It's cheap! A spray bottle is like $4, not even exaggerating, and a gallon is about $8. Strong stuff. Better for spot cleaning in your case though.
And yea, look for the dye type of stuff to find your leak, if it's eluding you.
Another option though (I think sofa's method is best, go figure), is castrol super clean. It's cheap! A spray bottle is like $4, not even exaggerating, and a gallon is about $8. Strong stuff. Better for spot cleaning in your case though.
And yea, look for the dye type of stuff to find your leak, if it's eluding you.
#20
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Car: camaro
Engine: 377sb 400++hp
Transmission: tko 600
i personnaly think its overkill to use carb cleaner, its acid and if you get it on any rubber surface it will ruin it so if you do use it be realy careful. works great thou
#21
Originally posted by miami79
i personnaly think its overkill to use carb cleaner, its acid and if you get it on any rubber surface it will ruin it so if you do use it be realy careful. works great thou
i personnaly think its overkill to use carb cleaner, its acid and if you get it on any rubber surface it will ruin it so if you do use it be realy careful. works great thou
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