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ok so my car is running like poo on some days...

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Old 12-20-2005, 06:42 PM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
ok so my car is running like poo on some days...

and great and I mean great on other days...

Today i was just cruising around having some fun with the car, the mods I did to it finally kicked in and the car is amazingly powerful now..well moreso than it used to be....


Anywho, on my way home today, which was about 10 minutes, ago, the car itself was driving great and I mean great when it was on a straight aways road...

But lemme tell you....idling is not this car's best friend...

I was at a stop light, and that car was literally feeling like it was gonna stall, it wanted to stall...It was on the 500rpm line just kinda sitting there, so I revved it a few times to get the rpms normal, dop still 500...so I turned the car off real quickly fired her back up again and she was back to about 550-600rpm....

And also, she hesitates...badly, today was really bad, from a full complete stop to partial throttle she just kinda jumps as if I am driving a stick which I am not...

I replaced my O2 sensor not long ago, did my spark plugs about 3 months ago, she's due for an oil change in another 1000 miles...

This isn't consistent or anything, but it does happen often, there are days when none of this ever happens but days like today just really took a crap on me...


And oh yes, what i thought was a bumpy road is actually my car's fault...don't know what I am talking about? Read on....

There was always this strange vibration I got whenever driving the car and it only happens at one specific rpm....I always thought that I was driving over an imperfect road up until today. I leveled the rpms out at 1300 in OD gear and the vibration just kept on going and going and going and going, and its only at that RPM that I vibrate, no other....once I jump past that one its smooth sail again....any idea on what the hell that vibration is...

Cause I am stooped...anyways, I am not fully done on her routine maintenance yet....I wanna change out the spark plug wires and distributor cap and rotor...and maybe a fuel filter....

Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated, only mods I have on her so far is a custom built exhaust and an open element...

EDIT: I must also aforemention that I am getting no codes at all...and oh yes the EGR system was replaced...

Last edited by 91ChevyRS; 12-20-2005 at 07:03 PM.
Old 12-20-2005, 09:27 PM
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Car: 91 Z28 with 64,000 miles
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
I have pretty much the same type of issue. I've been battling it for quite a few months now. If I figure it out, I'll let you know. Things I have already done:

MSD 6A, MSD coil, Taylor wires and spark plugs
aluminum drive shaft
New wheels and tires

It did get better after I soldered all the wires for the MSD 6A, but still has a "buck" when letting off the brake from a complete stop. Now the engine is hunting for idle speed after coming below 1000 rpm. I just love troubleshooting multiple problems
at the same time!

Mike
Old 12-20-2005, 10:01 PM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
well like I said, today was really the only day it was ever bad, this was like the drawing point of it being the worst...

As for the vibration thing, I know what it might be and I'll test it out tomorrow...
Old 12-21-2005, 02:26 AM
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Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
I've noticed that many people are having a problem once they install MSD coils. I have a similar problem and it happened maybe 50-100miles after I installed their blaster coil.
Thing that made it better were, new wires, new battery and new ECM.
You guys should check your fuel pressure, and see if your transmission mount is not broken 91RS! Just jack up the transmission a littlebit, and if it goes up you will see your mount broken, if not than I would start looking into the joints and loose bolts.

Good luck.
Old 12-21-2005, 10:08 AM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
Originally posted by xlwhellraiser
I've noticed that many people are having a problem once they install MSD coils. I have a similar problem and it happened maybe 50-100miles after I installed their blaster coil.
Thing that made it better were, new wires, new battery and new ECM.
You guys should check your fuel pressure, and see if your transmission mount is not broken 91RS! Just jack up the transmission a littlebit, and if it goes up you will see your mount broken, if not than I would start looking into the joints and loose bolts.

Good luck.
Tranny mount was replaced 2 weeks ago with a polyurethane one, nothing is absolutely wrong with the mount at all...I have yet to drive the car for today, but I am gonna do a quick visual check on my plug wires and see if they need some replacing...
Old 12-21-2005, 09:49 PM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
hah, so I took it up the mountain today just for kicks (wow this car can corner and handle great)


Anyways, I parked up by a side parking lot area to just relax a bit, then when I got back in, the car would start and then immediately die...


so I tried again, did the same thing, with my foot on the pedal and the pedal rendered me useless.

So I left it alone then started it back up and she started.

I also forgot to mention that I was sitting at near 8000ft altitude...

Its never done this before, I was driving somewhat fast going up just to get a feel for the fresh air...

Is it just that the car may have been exhausted...or not enough fuel passing through...

I am stooped
Old 12-22-2005, 09:32 AM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
No one knows at all...

please, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I still have yet to change out the distributor cap and rotor......and I need to check out the plug wires...

If I replace the distributor cap and such would I notice an overall difference in my car?

I mean I really want to do some suspension work and more modifications to my car, but if its really not running as it should be running, then the modifications would prove me useless.

I will make a note to obtain new stuff today but I just need to know first.

Last edited by 91ChevyRS; 12-22-2005 at 09:37 AM.
Old 12-22-2005, 11:43 PM
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I learned an inconsistant miss can be caused by the rotor and cap, I also managed to burn a couple 2 mo old wires because of this too.

Have you checked the timing on it? When I first got my camaro and did the plugs and wires it ran great, but then after it did the missing deal a couple months down the road and I gave in to have my mechanic look at it, he replaced the rotor and cap, wires, and plugs and a couple other little things, timed it right and it runs BEAUTIFULLY. 100x better than it did on a great day before the timing was adjusted.
Old 12-24-2005, 10:29 PM
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Car: 1998 Volvo S70
Engine: B5254S Engine
Transmission: Automatic
Axle/Gears: It's a volvo?
Originally posted by Spazz698
I learned an inconsistant miss can be caused by the rotor and cap, I also managed to burn a couple 2 mo old wires because of this too.

Have you checked the timing on it? When I first got my camaro and did the plugs and wires it ran great, but then after it did the missing deal a couple months down the road and I gave in to have my mechanic look at it, he replaced the rotor and cap, wires, and plugs and a couple other little things, timed it right and it runs BEAUTIFULLY. 100x better than it did on a great day before the timing was adjusted.
the only things as far as maintenance I havent done is check my rotor, distributor, and cap. My wires look fine really, I pulled a few out and found no deposits or any arcing whatsoever.

The car has been running ok as of lately but not really great. It doesn't idle that well, the car shakes quite a bit but I am thinking it might be my tranny mount which is an Energy Suspension polyurethane one. But other than that it doesn't idle as well as it should.
Old 12-25-2005, 01:49 AM
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Car: 88 Camaro, 93 civic hatch
Engine: 2.8L, 1.5L VTec
Transmission: 5 Speed, 5 Speed
have you at least pulled the cap off the distributor to check for carbon? Rotor and cap replacements are cheap (mine cost <20) Even if you dont need them immediately Id go ahead and replace them, you wont be losing much if you do.

BTW my car doesnt idle right either, not sure if its from the bad wire between the coolant temp sensor and the ecm (which should tell my car its super cold, thus dumping gas in the car I dont need keeping the idle high) or if I need to manually adjust the idle. It sits 1k, or it'll go between 900-1100ish if the heat is on. But since I found out this is a replacement motor in my car and the car was pretty much put together just to pass emissions, I think its doing just fine for the time being.

Last edited by Spazz698; 12-25-2005 at 01:53 AM.
Old 12-25-2005, 02:23 PM
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As an FYI the wires can LOOK perfect but still be bad. The only good way to test them is with an ohm meter. I just replaced my wires that had less than 100 miles on them and looked perfect. I measured the resistance and found 5 of 8 were bad. Just an FYI.
Old 12-25-2005, 07:01 PM
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and even when testing the resistance isn't going to be 100%
I have seen people with wires on their car that tested fine but when the car warmed up (it was a 350 tbi) it would start acting up backfiring through the intake every now and then. even more so when giving it a heavy load. it wasn't often but it was often enough.
replaced the wires it all went away.
best we can figure was when the wires got warm it would create a partial open circuit.

the wires on my honda also test fine till you do the touch the wires test with the car running.
that kinda sucks. I have a few leaky wires
Old 12-26-2005, 03:53 PM
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Good point! Resistance is directly proportional to temperature. I too have had that problem. You could actually watch the resistance go down as the wire cooled off. Best bet would be to swap them out.
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