Xenodrgn

I noticed I was about a quart and a half low today, so I used the rest of my ATF (little under a quart) and a little oil to fill it up. What are the chances that it'll unstick some stuck lifters?

How long should it take before I start seeing my valvetrain region cleaning up? Right now it's really bad and really dirty. I'm thinking of running this mix of oil/AFT for about 2 more weeks, and then doing a change. When I change the oil, it'll be one quart ATF, and then the rest oil.

So when will I see my engine starting to get cleaned up? Will I notice a difference even? I can tell you right now when I look though the oil fill hole, that **** is gummed up to hell.

(PS) Don't give me the run-around about using synthetic oil to clean the engine up. I have a couple cases of good dino juice laying around and I'm using them first.

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

C'mon, spin 'em for papa...
http://www.xenodrgn.f2s.com/Frontright.jpg

johnsjj2

I have done this before. I think if your engine is that dirty, it may take a few applications to clean it up. If its real gummed up, like in chunks, I would watch your oil filter doesn't get clogged up.



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Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
350, T-5, K&N, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, Dynomax Bullet Mufflers, T&R Motorsports custom air intake, Bald tires

RB83L69

Lifters don't "stick" too often, so I doubt that you have even one such, let alone multiple ones.

However, the ATF will definitely dislodge the schmutz. I've been using it that way for decades. It will help the check valves in the lifters to seal better, which may cut down on the ticking.

After 5000 miles like that, most of the accumulated crud should be gone. Try adjusting the valves then if they are adjustable in one of those motors (I haven't a clue about them, I don't work on them) after a while of cleaning.

The advice in the other post about the filter is wise. If you have a gauge for oil pressure, change the filter immediately if you see any pressure drop at all compared to its normal behavior.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

Xenodrgn

Thanks guys... I've got some odd noises and thought that could be it. It's quieted some already since I added oil+ATF (no start up noises!), and I just feel better about the condition of the engine now.

Now if only I can get my exhaust leaks and ignition problems fixed. I can actually hear the hissing as I'm driving along if I've got my windows down and a wall next to me and the miss at idle is a sign too. I can't find the leak worth a damn though. The coil is original, might as well replace it while I'm at it.

BigL350

I think we might have the same problems. I have a miss at idle and a tapping noise that I can sort of hear while driving, but is more audible next to a wall. It could be a)valvetrain noise b)an exhaust leak, or c)the header hitting the frame. There are reasons why all of which are possible. I had a problem with the first set of valvesprings, that were supposed to be drop in fit, but because of the company's negligence and my inexperience, I didn't remove the inner spring/vibrational damper, which stacked and caused major damage like bent pushrods, a broken rocker arm, and little bits of metal all over the place, so I had to tear down most of my motor and flush it out with brake parts cleaner, then with tons of oil, changed the valve seals which got really messd up, but probably saved the valves, so I put in new springs, locks retainers, seals, reused most of the rocker arms, reused 4 of the pushrods and adjusted it 1/2 turn past 0 lash, and took the rocker covers off a few time since to make sure all is well. The passenger side header is hitting the frame, but could that sound be mistaken for valve tapping? And then there's the everpresent possiblity of an exhaust leak with headers. Does anyone know how I should go about diagnosing this? At this point I'm going to take the valve covers off again and adjust the valves while it's running, and if that doesn't stop it, I'm going to take off the passenger side header, change the gasket, and dimple the header(already had to dimple for the upper control arm.) Does that sound like the right way to go about this?

[This message has been edited by BigL350 (edited December 08, 2001).]